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Step 2Making the Frames
Making the frames:
First, cut the frame components on a table saw and miter saw. The first picture show's how I laid out for my chair. Change the dimensions as suits you.
Important note: You'll want to use a hardwood that is on the harder end of the spectrum... like oak, walnut, hickory, etc. Birch, poplar, ash, etc. would tend to be too soft to hold up.
I ripped two strips on the table saw @ 1.5", from which I then cut two 41" boards, and two 16 7/8" boards. From the remaining scrap I cut two 2 7/8" blocks with a 30º miter on one end of each, which will get glued to one of the 16 7/8" front seat support board (see pictures two and three below). Then I ripped a 1 1/4" strip from the remaining board on the table saw. From that I cut two 27" pieces on the miter saw. S Then I ripped the remaining board to 2" wide and cut two pieces 13 5/16", and a third 15 3/8" on the miter saw. Disregard the short pieces in the picture marked "SSB".
Okay, all of your boards are now cut...
Next, you're going to glue together your front seat support. Take one 16 7/8" seat support and the two mitered blocks and glue and clamp them together to resemble the front seat support shown in pictures two and three below. This will create a board that is 3" wide at the ends and 1 1/2" wide in the midst, and allows room for the seat to sag when you sit in the chair.
Optional: I used the 3/8" round nose bit to route a trough in the outside edges of the long boards in which the paracord can reside and be protected from abrasion... and I think it has a more appealing "finished" appearance, but this is not required.
Optional: You can round the ends of your long boards on the disc sander for a more finished look.
Next, route the long edges of all of your boards with the 1/4" round over bit. If you want to duplicate the front edge detail that I used on my seat frame (see picture 5 below), you'll need to reserve some of the routing until after the frame is assembled.
Mark and drill your 1/4" holes for your paracord to go through. I spaced the holes on my back at 2 3/8" vertically and 2 1/2" horizontally. For the seat I put the holes closer, as they will be bearing more weight... 1 5/8" in each direction.
Optional: I used a drill press and drilled the holes at a 45º angle so that the paracord would ride as close to flush with the top surface of the frames as possible. The other end of the holes (on the outside edge of the frames) exited in the midst of the routed troughs. Only do this if you are comfortable with it... it's not required. :o)
At this point your front seat support should be set up nicely. Remove the clamps and use the table saw to put a bevel of 10º on the tops of the blocks to duplicate what is depicted in picture #6 below. Put that same 10º bevel on the bottom of the rear 16 7/8" seat support as well, just like in #6 below.
Okay, with the boards cut, the front seat support glued up & beveled, and the edges routed, you're ready to start assembling the frames. The two 41", 15 3/8", and two 16 7/8" boards make up the back of the chair, while the two 27" and two 13 5/16" boards make up the seat frame.
You will want to mark each end of the long boards where your screws will go to fasten the frames together, then drill (1/8" bit) & countersink the holes. Once that's done, lay the frame components on a flat surface and use the 24" clamps to hold them in position while you pre-drill the screw holes. Go ahead and assemble the frames dry for now. Once you have them all together you will glue one corner at a time, removing the screws, gently spreading the joint just enough to smear some glue inside, then reinstalling the screws. You can skip this technique with the seat supports... just remove one support at a time, glue and re-screw. It's quicker and easier to glue the frames together after you've dry-fit everything together.
A little note on my seat support placement: the bottom of the front seat support attaches 1 5/8" from the bottom of the vertical sidebar, and the bottom of the rear seat support attaches 6 1/16" from the bottom of the vertical side support. These are not rigid laws, but guidelines that worked for me.
Once your frames are glued you can go ahead and sand, stain and poly them... then you're ready for the next step (after they've dried, of course. :o)
First, cut the frame components on a table saw and miter saw. The first picture show's how I laid out for my chair. Change the dimensions as suits you.
Important note: You'll want to use a hardwood that is on the harder end of the spectrum... like oak, walnut, hickory, etc. Birch, poplar, ash, etc. would tend to be too soft to hold up.
I ripped two strips on the table saw @ 1.5", from which I then cut two 41" boards, and two 16 7/8" boards. From the remaining scrap I cut two 2 7/8" blocks with a 30º miter on one end of each, which will get glued to one of the 16 7/8" front seat support board (see pictures two and three below). Then I ripped a 1 1/4" strip from the remaining board on the table saw. From that I cut two 27" pieces on the miter saw. S Then I ripped the remaining board to 2" wide and cut two pieces 13 5/16", and a third 15 3/8" on the miter saw. Disregard the short pieces in the picture marked "SSB".
Okay, all of your boards are now cut...
Next, you're going to glue together your front seat support. Take one 16 7/8" seat support and the two mitered blocks and glue and clamp them together to resemble the front seat support shown in pictures two and three below. This will create a board that is 3" wide at the ends and 1 1/2" wide in the midst, and allows room for the seat to sag when you sit in the chair.
Optional: I used the 3/8" round nose bit to route a trough in the outside edges of the long boards in which the paracord can reside and be protected from abrasion... and I think it has a more appealing "finished" appearance, but this is not required.
Optional: You can round the ends of your long boards on the disc sander for a more finished look.
Next, route the long edges of all of your boards with the 1/4" round over bit. If you want to duplicate the front edge detail that I used on my seat frame (see picture 5 below), you'll need to reserve some of the routing until after the frame is assembled.
Mark and drill your 1/4" holes for your paracord to go through. I spaced the holes on my back at 2 3/8" vertically and 2 1/2" horizontally. For the seat I put the holes closer, as they will be bearing more weight... 1 5/8" in each direction.
Optional: I used a drill press and drilled the holes at a 45º angle so that the paracord would ride as close to flush with the top surface of the frames as possible. The other end of the holes (on the outside edge of the frames) exited in the midst of the routed troughs. Only do this if you are comfortable with it... it's not required. :o)
At this point your front seat support should be set up nicely. Remove the clamps and use the table saw to put a bevel of 10º on the tops of the blocks to duplicate what is depicted in picture #6 below. Put that same 10º bevel on the bottom of the rear 16 7/8" seat support as well, just like in #6 below.
Okay, with the boards cut, the front seat support glued up & beveled, and the edges routed, you're ready to start assembling the frames. The two 41", 15 3/8", and two 16 7/8" boards make up the back of the chair, while the two 27" and two 13 5/16" boards make up the seat frame.
You will want to mark each end of the long boards where your screws will go to fasten the frames together, then drill (1/8" bit) & countersink the holes. Once that's done, lay the frame components on a flat surface and use the 24" clamps to hold them in position while you pre-drill the screw holes. Go ahead and assemble the frames dry for now. Once you have them all together you will glue one corner at a time, removing the screws, gently spreading the joint just enough to smear some glue inside, then reinstalling the screws. You can skip this technique with the seat supports... just remove one support at a time, glue and re-screw. It's quicker and easier to glue the frames together after you've dry-fit everything together.
A little note on my seat support placement: the bottom of the front seat support attaches 1 5/8" from the bottom of the vertical sidebar, and the bottom of the rear seat support attaches 6 1/16" from the bottom of the vertical side support. These are not rigid laws, but guidelines that worked for me.
Once your frames are glued you can go ahead and sand, stain and poly them... then you're ready for the next step (after they've dried, of course. :o)
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