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Step 3Weaving the Back and Seat
This is the fun part, 'cause you're almost done!
First I screwed (after pre-drilling the oak!) the 1" webbing just above the rear seat support (see pictures #1 & #2 below) and about 6" from the back end of the seat frame. Then I took a pencil soldering iron and melted holes into the webbing on the seat frame to match the hole spacing on the opposite end of the frame... this is only necessary on the seat frame. Make sure to wrap the webbing as shown to increase friction strength, and don't forget to melt the ends of the webbing well to keep it from fraying... and make sure your screws are tight. Make sure your webbing is tight, as on the seat frame this is what you'll fasten your diagonals. The webbing on the chair back functions to keep one's tailbone from contacting the rear seat support by giving a "soft bar" over which the paracord travels before going through holes in the rear seat support. Picture #3 below is a closer detail of these webs, the seat frame being the one on the right.
I started out weaving the vertical runs, then the horizontals with one piece of paracord... then the diagonals with another. Start by calculating how much paracord you're going to need for your seat back... you can separate the horizontals and verticals from the diagonals. The shorter your pieces the less threading you'll have to do. On my seat back it took approximately 35' of cord to do the horizontals plus the verticals, and another 30' to do the horizontals.
I started by threading one end of the paracord through a hole closest to the corner, tying a couple knots to prevent it from pulling though, then weaving in a zig-zagging pattern through the vertical holes, and then the horizontal holes. When you begin weaving perpendicular courses, weave in and out of the existing cords in an alternating pattern, just like on a tennis racket. When you come to the diagonals, get creative, but be consistent in your pattern.
Important note: As you weave, make sure to tension the cord as tightly as practical as you go along. Don't start another direction until you are satisfied that you've gotten it as tight as you want it.
It's not too important how you transition from one direction to another, nor is it critical how you tie things off... use your creativity, sense of aesthetics and common sense.
First I screwed (after pre-drilling the oak!) the 1" webbing just above the rear seat support (see pictures #1 & #2 below) and about 6" from the back end of the seat frame. Then I took a pencil soldering iron and melted holes into the webbing on the seat frame to match the hole spacing on the opposite end of the frame... this is only necessary on the seat frame. Make sure to wrap the webbing as shown to increase friction strength, and don't forget to melt the ends of the webbing well to keep it from fraying... and make sure your screws are tight. Make sure your webbing is tight, as on the seat frame this is what you'll fasten your diagonals. The webbing on the chair back functions to keep one's tailbone from contacting the rear seat support by giving a "soft bar" over which the paracord travels before going through holes in the rear seat support. Picture #3 below is a closer detail of these webs, the seat frame being the one on the right.
I started out weaving the vertical runs, then the horizontals with one piece of paracord... then the diagonals with another. Start by calculating how much paracord you're going to need for your seat back... you can separate the horizontals and verticals from the diagonals. The shorter your pieces the less threading you'll have to do. On my seat back it took approximately 35' of cord to do the horizontals plus the verticals, and another 30' to do the horizontals.
I started by threading one end of the paracord through a hole closest to the corner, tying a couple knots to prevent it from pulling though, then weaving in a zig-zagging pattern through the vertical holes, and then the horizontal holes. When you begin weaving perpendicular courses, weave in and out of the existing cords in an alternating pattern, just like on a tennis racket. When you come to the diagonals, get creative, but be consistent in your pattern.
Important note: As you weave, make sure to tension the cord as tightly as practical as you go along. Don't start another direction until you are satisfied that you've gotten it as tight as you want it.
It's not too important how you transition from one direction to another, nor is it critical how you tie things off... use your creativity, sense of aesthetics and common sense.
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