I have seen many people wrap cellphone charges and other such electronics cables in paracord. I really like the idea, but any cables I have ever broken, break where the cable meats the plug, not in the middle. This is especially common with my headphones, they always break right at the jack. So I decided to save myself some time and just reinforce the heads of my cables. The different colors also help me to easily identify the cables.

Step 1: Gather Supplies

The first step is to gather the needed supplies.
You will need:
1. The cable you are going to wrap. In my case this was a 6' HDMI cable.
2. The paracord you want to use for the wrap. I used two 4' scraps of blaze orange.
3. Something to cut the paracord with, I just used a pocket knife.
4. And something to melt the paracord with, in my case I used a Zippo. 
<p>I managed to get the pattern after a few online video tutorials. I am curious how you managed as tight a weave as you did. Still, it's nice seeing the green cable come through, and I'm happy with it. Thanks for the instructable! </p>
<p>In the very top image the inner strands of the paracord have been removed, thats why it appears to tight. </p>
<p>Is it really paracord? does not look like, maybe is why it is not so tight?</p>
<p>You have got to grab the top and push down to make it as tight as possible.</p>
<p>Looks good. I am sorry if I wasn't really clear on how to do the weave. I was able to make it as tight as I did because I gutted the paracord. This made it much thinner and so I was able to push it very close together. You won't be able to do this if you are using accessory cord, 350 cord or something else that is solid core, but it really doesn't effect the finished product.</p>
This is the result with 50cm of cord, with about 2x4cm of waste :) thank's!!
<p>love it - brilliant idea.</p>
<p>Hi and thanks this works great, used it on my ear buds at the usb end that was fraying.</p>
I made another, but in small usb and it all with two colors reusing paracord cuts<br>???
I did my and my brother ☺
Is it 4' for each end or both ends?
<p>I made a few of these to keep my kids from ruining their tablet charging cables.</p>
<p>Great idea! I've always had problems with messing that part up.</p>
Thank you very much!
did it on my HyperX's so when I roll them up for my backpack the connection to the headset doesn't get bent too far.
<p>Thanks for the step by step. This is my first foray into paracord projects, and a very useful one! Question about the end though: how do you make it look at nice and neat at you have it in your pictures? As you can see, after burning the ends, it looks kinda ugly on mine. Any tips?</p><p>Also just generally regarding melting paracords. Do you just burn and press it with your fingers? It won't burn/stick on skin?</p>
<p>sometimes i use pliers to squeeze the ends if i remember to grab them before i start a project, but most of the time i just flatten the tips by pressing down on them with the flat of the knife im using.</p>
<p>Paracord ( or 550 cord - spoken as Five-Fifty cord) *will* stick and burn your fingers if you are not careful. If your using a lighter, then melt the tip, place on hard surface (that you don't mind getting a little messed up) and use plastic body of lighter to mash down in melted portion. Not burn and mushed appropriately.</p>
<p>It helps to melt the ends with a lighter then wet your fingers and quickly pinch them. </p>
<p>Paracord will give you trouble if you leave the ends too long when trying to singe them. I have found it best to leave about 1/8 in to burn. When I singe the ends I just take my lighter and use the smooth spot on the bottom of a zippo to press against the melted paracord. It makes it look better and you wont get any blisters. The metal also absorbs the heat so it hardens almost instantly.</p>
<p>I added springs from ball point pens over the ends then tube shrink wrap over that. Paracord will look nice over the top </p>
<p>Many Thanks, very helpfull. Done with Shoelace in absence of Paracord.</p>
<p>Way back when I first studied electronics in high school sometime in third quarter of the last century we always made our own cables. Would do the stain relief with electrical tape and rubber cement. When I worked in the TV satellite industry a few years later we used self vulcanizing tape on the outside connections.</p>
Good idea. I usually put 2 inches of krazy glue on each end. It's invisible, only takes a few seconds and lasts forever.
<p>First off great idea. Second the paracord you use is 550 lb type or just some craft type paracord? I am curious before I run out and get the wrong thing</p>
<p>What I used is 550 lb cord, but I don't think it matters. It would most likely not effect the integrity of the reinforcement too much if it wasn't real 550 cord. Plus I gutted it and the otter sheath is only rated at something like 70 lbs. </p>
<p>Nice instructible. Fixed up my cords today, but used accessory cord so it wouldn't be so bulky. </p>
<p>Looks good!</p>
<p>Remember to vote if you like it.</p>
<p>very nice! will try it today! :D</p>
<p>Don't know how much support the paracord is giving, but it is adding a degree of extra support surely? Given that there is likely to be a chunk of expensive electronics at one end, any help is welcome. Nice weaving, by the way. The problem with many cables is that the strain relief section is often too rigid to allow a smoothly curved bend, and often only allows the cable exiting that section to bend at right angles thus enabling breaking at that point. I check cables to see how the strain relief section is working, and if too rigid I use a sharp blade to cut Vs into some or all of the plastic sections that join the peaks of the concentric rings. This increases the flexibility of the strain relief section. I also like the biro springs and Sugru ideas.</p>
<p>To ensure cord doesn&rsquo;t slip, use a drop of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. Same for the ends of the cord - instead of burning them shut, a drop of CA glue will do you.</p>
<p>thanks Gunny, was just contemplating what I would do to keep it from slipping and saw your post. </p>
<p>Glad it was helpful. Semper Fi!!</p>
<p>That would definitely work very well. Just a drop of crazy glue and that paracord is never coming off. </p>
<p>Good try, and it looks neat, but this isn't actually going to do anything. The only reinforcement is the tiny section of cord between the first loop and the second. </p><p>As a matter of fact, it may actually make things worse. The rest of the weave is going to make that length of cable more stiff (as intended), however, since the weakest point is still barely reinforced, it's even more unstable. When the weakest part bends, that bend can't be translated (distributed) along the cable anymore.</p><p>I think the best way to reinforce a cable would be to just give it some hot melt glue. Then you can add your paracord to dress it up.</p>
<p>I think this WOULD work well, if (combining others' suggestions with a new one): in addition to affixing the woven cord to the cable with cyanoacrylate, also stiffen the woven paracord up with lots more CA glue. That'll give you a rather inflexible reinforcement. </p>
CA glue (superglue) is a bad choice for two reasons. <br>1, It's brittle... instead of bending, as a cable should, it will either crack (in fabric), or break free (from a smooth surface).<br>2, It's too stiff for this application. The whole point of putting tension relief on a cable is to spread the bend from a single location, the spot directly behind the connector housing, over a larger area. A rigid structure would simply transition that single point from the edge of the connector housing to the edge of the new structure.<br>Hot-melt glue is flexible and you can make it thick near the connector and taper off.
<p>This is great. </p><p>I have attempted to reinforce wires like this with Sugru. But found they simply aren't strong enough. So as I added the Sugru last time, I used something that happened to be on my desk: an Italian 500 lira coin.</p>
<p>I think it is a great idea but how does that stop the cord from breaking at that point?</p>
<p>It makes it less flexible. I have found that it is usually bending that weakens these cables and causes them to break</p>
<p>Thank you!</p>
Thanks for sharing. I'm gonna try this. I spend too much replacing cords.
<p>It's a great way to use up those scraps rather than just tossing them. We've done similar with embroidery floss on iPod cords (they always break at the usb base), and on earbuds. Keeps them from breaking and helps keep them from tangling also! A super 'ible!!</p>
Does it ever slide off the factory reinforcement and move up the cable?
<p>I have only had it on there for about two weeks and so far it hasn't. I think if you snug it down good it shouldn't move. </p>
<p>This is great. I've previously reinforced the factory reinforcement with a bit of Sugru. It occurs to me that if you put a small amount of that down as a base layer, the paracord weave will bond with texture, and won't be going anywhere. Can't wait to combine the two and fortify all my cables.</p>
<p>Snugging down the first few knots at the very beginning of the weave where you are over the factory reinforcement (make them good and tight) should keep it in place well.</p>

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