Introduction: Photo-emulsion Screen Printing

Picture of Photo-emulsion Screen Printing

Sometimes you need to your message out quickly and cheaply. How do you print a ton of t-shirts and patches fast? Here's how I did it.

This Instructable covers the standard photo-emulsion screen printing process, which is great for printing text or images with fine detail...and at the end, you have your own personally-designed entirely unique prints on fabric, clothing, paper, or whatever else you can get under your screen.

The general idea: After stretching fine-mesh cloth over a wooden frame, you spread a thin layer of photosensitive emulsion on the screen and let it dry. You then take a black image on transparent or translucent surface, place it against the screen, and then expose the screen to light. The light causes the emulsion to harden and bind to the fabric. Where the light strikes the screen, the emulsion will bind, making a solid layer. Where the light is blocked (ie where your black image is placed) the emulsion remains water-soluble. After exposing the screen, you spray down the screen with water, washing off the emulsion only where your image was placed; this clear area is where ink will be pressed through the screen when you print. Finally, you lay the screen on your t-shirt, other fabric, or paper, spread ink on the inside of the screen, and press the ink through the screen. If you use textile ink, you can heat-set the ink after it dries, and it'll be permanent and washable.

There are some great Instructables up on the site already for screen printing methods, but there's always room for more. For this project, I went with a ready-made screen and images printed in black on transparencies.

Check out Screen Printing: Cheap, Dirty, and At Home for info on making your own screens and using the sun to expose your photo-emulsion.

Threadbanger has an excellent D.I.Y Screen Printing Instructable which covers making screens using old embroidery hoops and using Mod Podge to put your image on the screen.

How to Silk Screen has a good overview of the photo-emulsion process.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials!

Picture of Gather Your Materials!

What you need:
@ a screen
While I used a ready-made Speedball frame for this project, making your own screens is cheaper, and not hard to do. Take a look here and here for great tips on making screens.
@ a printing squeegee or piece of cardboard with a smooth, straight edge

@ photo emulsion and sensitizer
I used Speedball diazo photo emulsion and diazo sensitizer; the exposure times I list later in this Instructable are for this formula. If you use another type of photo emulsion, be sure to read the directions and test to make sure you have the correct exposure times.
@ screen filler fluid (again, I'm using the standard Speedball stuff)
@ photo emulsion remover (for taking the emulsion off the screen so it can be reused)
@ screen printing ink for fabric

@ a light table
@ light bulb (at least 150W, clear incandescent), light bulb socket with reflector, clamp, and cord

Miscellaneous useful things:
@ pushpins (at least 4 per screen)
@ chopsticks, popsicle sticks, plastic spoons -- for mixing and putting emulsion & ink on the screen
@ small paint-safe cups
@ masking tape (water-resistant tape is best)
@ regular transparent tape
@ lots of newspapers (to keep everything else clean!)
@ a book or piece of thick cardboard that's slightly smaller than your screen
@ sheet of cardboard that fits inside your t-shirts (if you're printing shirts)

Step 2: Preparing Your Photo Emulsion

Picture of Preparing Your Photo Emulsion

Follow the directions listed for your photo emulsion. For the Speedball photo emulsion I'm using here:

Fill Diazo Sensitizer bottle 3/4 full with cold water. Shake well. (The sensitizer was a black sludge on the bottom of the bottle, so mixing it thoroughly required lots of shaking and stirring with a chopstick.)

Pour the contents of the Diazo Sensitizer bottle into the Diazo Photo Emulsion container. Mix until all of the photo emulsion is a uniform color. The diazo photo emulsion starts out as a bright, light blue color. The sensitizer is a nasty black-green color. After mixing, the sensitized emulsion should be bluish-green.

Ideally, you want to do both this mixing step and the screen-coating step in a relatively dark room, to expose the emulsion to as little light as possible.

The sensitized emulsion can be stored (according to the bottle) in a cool, dark place for about 8 weeks at room temperature (70F), or four months in the refrigerator.

Step 3: Coating the Screen

Picture of Coating the Screen

First -- lay out newspapers on your work surface, if you haven't already. Sometimes this step is relatively clean, and sometimes I end up with green emulsion all over everything.

Since you'll be flipping the screen over repeatedly during this process, go ahead and put a pushpin in each corner of the bottom (flat) side of the screen. That way, you can flip the screen and set it facing bottom-side down without getting emulsion everywhere. Also, if you don't have a squeegee, you can use a piece of semi-flexible cardboard, so long as it's got a wide, straight, smooth edge for spreading.

Start with the screen bottom (flat) side up. Pour (or glop, as the case may be) a thick line of emulsion across one end of the screen. Use the squeegee to spread it evenly over the whole screen, making a thin layer. Flip the screen over and rest it on the four pushpins. Pour another thick line of emulsion on one end of the inside of the screen and spread it evenly over the screen with the squeegee.

Repeat this process until you have a thin, even layer of emulsion covering the entire screen. (This shouldn't require flipping the screen more than a few times; you want to work quickly to minimize the amount of time the sensitized emulsion is exposed to light.) Do the final spreading step on the inside of the screen, so that you have a smooth surface for spreading the ink later.

Once you're done, set your screen bottom-side down (resting on the pushpins) in a dark place to dry. I usually set mine inside or under a cardboard box, in a closet or closed cabinet.

I let mine sit overnight, but if you want it to dry faster, point a fan at it.

Step 4: Prepare Your Image

The emulsion on your screen is photosensitive; when it's exposed to light, the emulsion hardens onto the fabric and becomes water-resistant. So, to put your image on the screen, you want a "positive" with an opaque, black image on it (blocks light) and a transparent background that lets light get through to react with the photoemulsion.

An easy way to do this is to make a black & white image with a graphics program, or draw on white paper, then photocopy the image onto a transparency.

For this project, I'm printing up some patches and maybe t-shirts, and my images are just plain black text. I've included the .pdf files I used for my prints.

More ideas:
It's even possible to make a "grayscale" screenprint, where solid black areas on your printed image end up entirely clear on your screen, and gray areas are a pattern of tiny black dots that become tiny clear spaces on your screen. To do this, you'll still need to start with a fairly high-contrast black & white image, then convert it to bitmap. A resolution test pattern (like this classic RCA test pattern) helps with calibration and makes a neat screenprinted image by itself, too.

Step 5: Expose Your Screen, Then Rinse

Picture of Expose Your Screen, Then Rinse

Your screen is tucked away somewhere cool and dark to dry, so the next step is setting up your exposure rig.

A lightbox or light table, with several fluorescent bulbs set directly under a translucent piece of acrylic, allows for simpler set-up and shorter exposure times, but may take some experimentation to figure out what the correct exposure time should be. And hey, there's even an Instructable on making your own light table. Depending on what light intensity you have coming out of the lightbox, your exposure time could be around 4 or 5 minutes.

The setup I used for this project is just a 150W clear incandescent bulb in a socket with a long cord and reflector. A 150W bulb requires a much longer exposure time, but that's fine by me; it gives me a chance to take a break and get all my ink and fabric ready.

Before taking your completely-dry screen out, get the rest of your exposure rig put together.
You'll need some non-reflective black fabric, a sheet of glass or acrylic big enough to cover your screen, a ruler or tape measure, the light bulb, socket, and reflector.

With the light bulb & reflector all put together, hang it so that your bulb will be 12 inches (for a 10x14 screen) above the surface of the screen, centered. Lay the black fabric on the ground where your screen will be placed. Have your image-on-transparencies and acrylic ready, and check to make sure you've got the transparencies in the right orientation.

Since you're going to set the screen with the bottom side facing up, then lay your image and the acrylic on top of that, you'll be placing your image so that it's backwards when you look at the bottom side of the screen. This is especially important for text! (Think about it like this: you'll be putting ink on the inside of the screen and pressing it through to print. So the image you see from the inside of the screen is what prints; what you see when you look at the bottom side of the screen should therefore be the reversed image.)

Once the exposure rig is set up, take the dry, sensitized screen out and center it under the lamp, bottom side up. The black, non-reflective fabric should be underneath the entire screen. Arrange the transparencies with your images on the bottom side of the screen, then lay the sheet of acrylic over them to hold them flat against the screen. Check to make sure the distance between the bulb and the screen is correct. Turn on the light, expose for the correct amount of time, then turn off the light. Since I'm using a 10"x14" screen and 150W bulb, I exposed my screen for 45 minutes.

Once the exposure is finished, remove the acrylic and transparencies, then go rinse your screen. The kit directions for this step say "Apply a forceful spray of water (body temperature) to both sides of the screen. DO NOT USE HOT WATER." "Forceful" seems to be the key word here -- even the unexposed emulsion likes to stick to the screen fabric when dry, and using a strong shower spray or the spray-nozzle on a hose seems to work the best. As you spray, you'll see clear areas developing where your images blocked the exposure light; concentrate your spraying on those areas. You can rub the screen lightly with your fingertips, but if your image has fine details, you may lose some resolution by rubbing off extra emulsion around the edges of your image. Hold the screen up to the light; the mesh of the screen fabric should be entirely clear and open in your image areas. If it's not, keep on spraying.

Once your screen is washed out, let it dry completely.

Exposure chart for the Speedball diazo photo-emulsion system:
150 clear incandescent bulb
Screen Size 150W Bulb Height Exposure Time
8"x10" . . . . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 minutes
10"x14" . . . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 minutes
12"x18" . . . . . . . 15 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 hr. 14 minutes
16"x20 . . . . . . . .17 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 hr. 32 minutes
18"x20" . . . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 hr. 32 minutes

250W BBA No.1 Photoflood
Screen Size Lamp Height Exposure Time
8" x 10". . . . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . . 10 minutes
10"x14". . . . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . . 10 minutes
12 "x 18" . . . . . . .15 inches . . . . . . . . . . 16 minutes
16"x2O" . . . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . . 20 minutes
18"x2O" . . . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . . 20 minutes

Step 6: Print With Your Screen!

Picture of Print With Your Screen!

First, take your dry screen and hold it up to the light. If there are pinholes or spots where the emulsion didn't expose and washed out, cover those with masking tape. (Or, for a more durable fix, paint a thin layer of Screen Filler fluid over the pinholes or unwanted open areas and let it dry.)

Wear clothes you won't mind getting ink on, and make sure to put down lots of newspaper on your work surface. This is definitely a messy step.

I've found that screenprinting is much easier with a friend helping, especially if you're printing on fabric. This way one person can hold the screen down tightly on the fabric while the other spreads the ink.

For printing on fabric:
I've used the Speedball or Versatex textile inks for printing on fabric. It's a good idea to test your ink on the fabric to make sure it adheres and heat-sets properly. If you're printing on new t-shirts or clothing, make sure to wash it first. Scrap fabric and remnants from the fabric store make great material for patches. You can also pick up blank t-shirts, tank tops, or other basic clothing from thrift stores.

For printing on t-shirts, you'll want a piece of cardboard or newspaper to go inside the shirt so that the ink doesn't bleed all the way through to the other side. I also usually put a book or piece of cardboard that's slightly smaller than the screen underneath the fabric, so that the screen can be pressed down taut against the fabric.

It takes a bit of experimentation to figure out which printing techniques work best for a particular screen, ink, and fabric. For these prints, I laid the fabric down over a piece of cardboard, then set the screen on top of the fabric and had my friend hold it down. I put a bead of ink on the screen, then pulled the ink down the screen with my squeegee set at about a 45 degree angle. If it looked like I didn't have even enough pressure or missed some areas, I made another print stroke without moving the screen. My results aren't perfect, but they're fine for a set of patches to go on shirts, bags, or whatever-else.

Other tips and techniques:
You can do a "flood stroke" to spread ink over the screen before setting it down on the fabric. For this, you'll need to have your friend hold one end of the screen up away from the table. Put a bead of ink on edge of the screen closest to you. Spread the ink into an even layer using a smooth, light pass with the squeegee. Have your friend set the screen firmly down on the fabric, put your squeegee on the other side of the bead of ink you've just pushed across the screen, and pull it towards you with firm, even pressure. (Again, have the squeegee at about a 45 degree angle to the screen.)

The inks I'm using for this project are pretty old, so they don't flow as well as I'd like. Ideally, you want your ink to be smooth and slippery -- you can add some of the ink bases that Speedball makes, or just mix in a few drops of water.

For printing on paper:
The process is pretty much the same as printing on fabric. I've found the "flood stroke" technique to be more useful when printing on paper than on fabric. I still often use a bit of cardboard under the paper so that I can press down more firmly with the screen, but it's not necessary. Different types of paper will take ink very differently, so experiment a bit to find out what works. Heavy, porous-surface papers tend to work well. Lightweight paper often warps and wrinkles under the ink, and glossy paper doesn't take ink well and tends to smear.

Step 7: Changing Inks, Cleanup, and Heat-setting Your Prints.

Picture of Changing Inks, Cleanup, and Heat-setting Your Prints.

Changing inks:
If your prints have started smudging because there's ink on the bottom of the screen, or your ink has started to dry on the screen, or if you're just ready for a new color, it's time to rinse out the screen. Remove any masking tape on the screen. Hold it under a spray of warm water until the ink is all washed out, then set it out to dry. Pointing a fan at the screen or setting it out where it gets a bit of breeze makes this go much faster. Once it's dry, you're ready to put masking tape back over the areas you don't want printed, then get back to printing!

Cleaning up:
Again, make sure to rinse all of the ink out of the screen when you're done. Ink that dries on the screen will clog it and prevent ink from going through next time you print. Also wash out any dishes or paint brushes you've used before the ink dries on them. Close your ink containers tightly. If you have any photo emulsion left, make sure it's stored in a cool, dark place.

If you're done with your screen and know you aren't going to be printing anything more with it in the future, you can strip off the emulsion with the Speedball emulsion remover. Follow the instructions on the bottle. Wear gloves, and be aware that it'll take a lot of hot water and scrubbing to get your screen clean.

Heat setting your prints:
After the ink has dried completely on the fabric, set an iron on the highest dry heat that the fabric will take. Place a light piece of cloth between the iron and the printed fabric, then iron on each side for 3 to 5 minutes. (I've found that if the ink is entirely dry, I don't really need the extra piece of cloth. I also tend to iron my prints for at least 5 minutes or longer, just in case.)

For patches, I'll usually run a quick zigzag or overlock stitch around the edge of the patch, to keep it from fraying. Check out the "How to Patch Your Clothes" instructable for instructions on putting your patch securely on your clothes/bag/whatever.

If you've printed onto a t-shirt or other piece of clothing, you're ready to go.

Enjoy your totally unique wearable art...and, depending on what you've screenprinted, make a statement at the same time!


xucaen (author)2015-08-01

Every video I have seen on YouTube says it takes 10 minutes or less with an ordinary 60 watt bulb.

KevinA5 (author)xucaen2016-06-30

I screen print and make screens for other people regularly. I recommend a 500W Halogen lamp, centered at 12" above the screen. The exposure time is 5 minutes For a 16" x 20" screen (may vary with a larger screen)...

Make sure to cover teh screen and transparency with a sheet of tempered glass while exposing. This will keep the design flat and also deflect a lot of the lamp;s heat. This method works perfect for me every time and I get exceptionally crisp lines.

*side-note: very important that your transparency is printed with heavy black to block out the UV while exposing the emulsion and ensure that the screen washes out easily

thatroom (author)KevinA52017-08-19

here's the question. is it the LIGHT or the HEAT that sets the emulsion? I can get a high light output with LED strips, but it won't be warm enough to fry a flea. has anyone used CF versus Incandescent?

Voltron94 (author)KevinA52016-08-17

Hi Kevin!

I have a 400w halogen bulb, I am exposing a1 size screens. How far away should I have the light and how much time should I expose it for? Thanks in advance


TommyF15 (author)KevinA52016-08-09

This helped a lot, Thank you, can't seem to get the speedball emulsion right, i have a 500 watt bulb, gonna try this tomorrow

OpaC (author)KevinA52016-07-04

hey kevin! just a newbie at this printing business. i would like to know how long should i dry an emulsion before i put my design. w/o any heater or any fan.. just a dark room. thanks! =) need to know more about this. i've been struggling in this step. i waited for 8hrs to dry the emulsion, and put a design on it for 10-15mins. iv'e rinsed it for almost 30mins. yet some part of my design didn't come out.

KevinA5 (author)OpaC2016-07-05

It's likely that your either your emulsion is bad or the screens were somehow exposed already before you tried to burn your image onto them. Also consider that different emulsions have different specifications. I use water-based inks for my prints, so I only use Ryonet WBP Dual Cure Water Based Plastisol Hybrid Emulsion (

I usually dry it in a dark room with a small fan blowing away from the screens. I creates a gentle airflow but won't blow debris/ link onto the screens as they dry. Ryonet WBP Emulsion has a dry time of 3 hours after you apply it to the screen. I usually use 16" x 20" screens, so I expose them with a 500-Watt Halogen Work Light, mounted (centered) 12 inches above the screen surface.

I use foam under the screen and place a heavy piece of glass on top of the transparency below the light source (recommend: tempered glass). The exposure time is about 5 minutes. The emulsion package comes with instructions for exposure times for situations with different screen sizes and bulb wattage.

Make sure when you keep the screen AWAY FROM UV LIGHT UNTIL AFTER you wash it out. If use a high pressure spray nozzle (like you'd use to wash a car), that has different settings so I can adjust the strength of the water flow.

I hope this helps!

amolware2007 (author)2017-03-11

Can i use UV light instead of normal light bulb

bec0802 (author)2014-07-09

It shouldn't take a lot of scrubbing your screen to get it clean. Just make sure that you put the emulsion remover on when the screen is dry, let it set for 2 mins. then spray with water, the emulsion will come off easily like magic. If you have spread your emulsion thick and there are dried drips on the screen, you may have to do these steps a couple of times, but you still shouldn't need to scrub. Take care of your screens and they can be used for years.

ThaineK (author)bec08022015-12-22

Scrub your screen with comet ajax ete. Gives it some tooth. Rinse degrease with the best degreaser on the planet. Original DAWN dishwahing liquid. Dry apply photo resist

BlackBirdPaper (author)2015-05-28

hi there I just want to double check how thick is your glass?

ThaineK (author)BlackBirdPaper2015-12-22

Does not really matter. I used regular window glass.

MileneH (author)2015-05-23

Trying to remove my image off the screen to use another design, is that possible or do I need to buy a new screen?

ThaineK (author)MileneH2015-12-22

Use clorox bleach.

camdogg00 (author)MileneH2015-10-11

Once the screen has been developed aka exposed to light it is locked in and a new sheet must be used for each new design

rkrishnan7 (author)2015-12-22

Excellent 'ible with clear images and write up! I wonder about the spectral response of the sensitized Diazo - most photosensitive materials respond preferentially to certain wavelengths (colors) of light. If you can find out which, you could possibly build two illuminators - one of a color that will not affect the film while setting up, and another of a different color for the exposure. These could be built from readily available LED strips. Another advantage would be that LEDs generate a minimum of heat. You could possibly use a control circuit that can switch between LED colors using tri-color LEDs. BTW, you can trust this suggestion though I am > 25 years old (about 3X) :)

ShelbyA (author)2015-02-24

where did you get your lamp from ?

camdogg00 (author)ShelbyA2015-10-11

You can use a construction style lamp with a metal shade that can be bought at any local home improvement store

EllisP (author)2015-07-15

Hi. Can you help me on "Photo Emulsion for small images or letters", I find it quite complicated to print tiny image and letters. Please I really need to learn how to do it and I beleive that you can help me on it. Thank you so much! God bless. :)

GaryN1 (author)2014-08-10

Hello people, I'm new to silkscreen printing and I'm trying my first time out. i got the screen and i coat it with photo emulsion, printed my negative and then i expose it under the sun. however, after 40 mins, it doesn't seem to work. I'm not too sure where went wrong. these are the questions bothering me:
i) did i coat it correctly, is the coat too thin?
ii) i didn't place a piece of glass over the screen when doing exposure, is that why it didn't work?
iii) is the piece of glass over the screen necessary when exposing and can it replace with clear acrylic?
iv) what kind of light bulb should i use if I'm creating my own homemade light box for exposure?
v) what is Sensitizer? is it required for light exposure or just the photo emulsion is fine?

i hope to get help from pros like you guys.
Thanks so much...

xanscorp (author)GaryN12014-11-26

Answers in order of how you asked:
I) It should be translucent to opaque in its coating...the more prints to be run, the more opaque.
II) The glass is only recommended for when exposing in order to burn the image to the screen in order to keep it as flat as possible. Clear tape can be just as effective depending on your set-up.
III ) No, as mentioned, the clear glass is not necessary.
IV) Depending on your lightbox set-up, for a small lamp/light-source (about 12 inches from the screen) a 150-watt incandescent bult or a BBA-1 bulb are the recommended. I personally use a small lamp with a 150 watt bulb.
V) Sensitizer is what is added to the photo emulsion to make it light sensitive to burn the image to the screen. And yes, it is required to make the emulsion light-sensitive so that the emulsion only under what was blocked washes out. Be forewarned though, once the sensitized emulsion is coated onto a screen, avoid allowing it to be in any light until you are ready to burn the image (which should be done under the exposure instructions.)

bec0802 (author)2014-07-09

When I used cardboard in between the shirt front and back, I got ink smudged on the inside of the shirt. I have a tip: Since I am doing more than one T-shirt, I am using a glass cutting board sprayed with Elmers spray adhesive (to hold the shirt in place, since I am printing alone) in between the front and back of each T-shirt. I have had a lot of luck with this method (probably because the cardboard absorbed the ink through the t shirt layer, and the glass didn't) .

blatantimage (author)2014-03-26

Just a note on the emulsion: I coat mine, making the last sweep outside, then let dry with outside down(on the pushpins), which usually lets the emulsion heave down as it dries (gravity), that way you are creating the thicker layer directly in contact with your film.

In your process , the thicker layer is on the inside, furthest away from the film during exposure, which may not resolve as much detail when needed.

harperrn (author)2014-02-20

Thanks for all the pics and great descriptions, really helped out in getting started. I was just wondering where you got the emulsion exposer chart as it caused me to mess up quite a few screens before figuring out the chart is fact its REALLY far off :). diazos chart for a reflector set up should be set 18in (not 12) from the image and should be exposed for ONLY 7 minutes (not 45!!!!) after trying it with these numbers I get great results, trying it for 45 mins left me with an over exposed screen that was VERY hard to scrub clean. here is diazos chart for future reference...

youshouldknow (author)2009-01-19

thank you so much! im using the speedball system and ive never tried the photo emulsion process before. the insturctions they gave are confusing, but this cleared it up!

I couldn't believe how unclear the Speedball instructions were! Thanks for writing this.

tech1510 (author)2013-06-24

I work for a screen printing company. You don't really need to use a flood stroke unless you are working with light colored inks, as they are thicker.

tech1510 (author)2013-06-24

I work for a screen printing company. For a makeshift darkroom, find a room without windows, and replace the lightbulbs with bug lights. Bug lights do not emit UV light, UV is what exposes the emulsion. So you could have the room as bright as you want and not have to worry about exposing the screen. (I would still try to keep the light indirect)

Ruswendy (author)2013-05-17

Simple but very inspiring, so the process of screen printing can be done easily, thanks

ebrown19 (author)2013-02-15

Brilliant Instructable!

I have just posted an instructable on how to make your own screen printing screen cheaply and easily!



razorwinged (author)2012-12-26

hi! i just wanted to let you know that because i like this instructable so much, i have added it to my silkscreen guide...

thanks for sharing your ideas!

Gonazar (author)2012-06-05

How far does the ink stretch? How many shirts can I print with 16 oz of ink and a medium sized design? (roughly)

Spaceman Spiff (author)2012-06-03

Could I print up a design like this on a t-shirt using this method?

vampyredh (author)2010-03-29

if I may make a few suggestions I am a screen printer by trade and in order to save yourself lots of money on transparencies buy a can of dollar clear spray paint and do a light coat over your velum or tansparency let it completely dry the spray paint causes the black it to get solid and dark

kpeneff (author)vampyredh2012-03-13

Wow, must be really cool to do this professionally!

Maybe you could answer this for me; I'm doing a screen print in my art class, but our classes are cut down to 20 minutes this week, so I can't burn my screen AND rinse off the screen in one class period. Could I burn my screen, then come back in 20-30 minutes to rinse the screen?

JHAPZ_22387 (author)2011-11-11

Hi there!

Some friends of mine suggested to expose dried emulsion under the sun.

Is it effective?
Anyone knows how long of exposure?

Please help!


makirro (author)JHAPZ_223872012-01-30

yes but not on your body, better using a good quality heavy paper.
exposure is a little like sunbathing .. it takes a little experimentation to get just the right outcome .
makirro (the fool)

jcuizon (author)2011-11-21

guys can you help me how to clean my screen...and whats the problem of my work every time i exposed my design destroy pls help me......i'm using 4pcs 10WHATS lamp..thank you!pls help me

radracer (author)2011-09-27

This has been a lot of help to me.

nattapon05 (author)2011-09-13

when you do coating do you need to do in dark room ?

honeycomb (author)2009-03-18

Can you use this method to print designs which are very colorful? or will the designs made with this method always be one solid color?

stepandknee (author)honeycomb2011-04-04

you can overlay a print of one color with another, or you can just cover some areas with masking tape and print with one color, and then vice versa and print with another color

coask8b (author)2009-05-09

is it possible to expose the screen outside on a sunny day, instead of using a light rig, like in a similar instructable?

stepandknee (author)coask8b2011-04-04

yeah, definitely possible, but it's very dicey. there are a lot of factors that play into exposing a screen with sunlight--weather conditions, if it's cloudy or windy.

i find it easier to just use a bulb, that way i can do it any time and it's always consistent!

stepandknee (author)2011-04-04

if you have a design that's bigger than 8.5x11, or you don't want to go through the hassle of getting something copied onto a transparency, it works just all well to do this:

take a copy of the image and cut off some of the extra white paper around it. paint the piece of paper with baby oil. let that sink in and then dab off the excess oil with a paper towel. this makes the paper translucent, which works just as well as something transparent.

you might have to bump up the exposure time a tiny bit, but not too much. (i couldn't tell you HOW much because i've never actually used transparencies when screenprinting)

jakethink (author)2010-03-07

Just a hint for people who can't work out the exposure times.

You can put a strip of emulsion on a screen and test like you test in darkroom photography. Block most of the strip with something light proof (a bit of cardboard) but leave a couple of c.m. hanging out. Start exposing. After a couple of minutes move the cardboard back so another couple of centimeters is showing. keep doing this every minute or so, until the max time is reached. Then wash out as usual. this way you can see which time works best and you don't have to test on like twenty screens.

I hope this makes sense. and is helpful to all those having trouble


Jake 1NE. 

stepandknee (author)jakethink2011-04-04

ugh, i wish i would've done this before doing emulsion FOUR TIMES on a 20x24 screen until it worked.. this would've been so much simpler..

assassinazz (author)2008-04-21

I used to work at a screen printing shop and we didn't use liquid photo emulsion, we had big rolls of emulsion sheets that were stuck onto the screens with water and left to dry in a dark cupboard. I would cut the huge sheets into 12" x 14" squares which would be put in a drawer away from light, while the huge sheets were essentially a roll stuck in a big black tube (to block the light). The emulsion sheets were pretty much just a plastic sheet with emulsion on it that would stick to the screens with water and when the emulsion dried you would peel off the plastic sheet before "burning" the logo on the screen. When the "burning" was done (on a vacuum sealed light table with timer) I would "blow out" the design with a pressure sprayer, then dry the screen, tape the edges and fill any defective holes with liquid emulsion.

acidaleh (author)assassinazz2008-04-21

In junior high my shop class did silk screen printing with that kind of emulsion on plastic - only we would put our piece of emulsion plastic-side down and cut and remove the emulsion with an exacto knife. When the cutting was done we would attach the emulsion to the screen with water, let it dry over night with pressure on the screen, peel off the plastic and then print. The teacher had basically been printing that way for 25 years, with very good results.

stepandknee (author)acidaleh2011-04-04

you did silk screening in JUNIOR HIGH!? i'm jealous!

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