This project enables a Raspberry Pi, Beaglebone, or other small computer to be powered over an Ethernet cable. This very handy if you have a Pi somewhere where getting mains power to it is difficult, or if you want to run several devices from one central UPS.

It's cheap and quite simple to put together, with just one slightly tricky bit of soldering...

Step 1: About Power over Ethernet

If you want to get straight on with building, skip this bit!

The basic principles of Power over Ethernet (PoE) are straighforward: at one end of the cable, either near the network hub or built into it, is an 'injector' which takes DC power and the network signals, and combines them onto one cable. At the far end of the cable is a 'splitter' which does the reverse, taking the cable input and producing a DC power output and a network connection.

There are two main types of PoE systems. 'Active' systems have circuitry at both ends so that the injector only turns power on when a compatible device is detected on the cable. This is the sort you'll find on commercial network switches with PoE built in. 'Passive' systems are commonly found in cheaper applications (e.g. home CCTV) - here the power is applied all the time and no detection circuitry is used.

A passive system uses spare wires in a CAT-5 network cable to supply power - a 10- or 100-Mbit Ethernet connection only needs 4 of the 8 available wires to operate, leaving 4 free for power. Gigabit Ethernet connections need all 8, so don't work with passive PoE. Fortunately just about all Gigabit devices will fall back to 100-Mbit operation if only 4 wires are connected.

This project uses a simple passive PoE arrangement. The only refinement is to use a higher DC supply voltage (12-24V) than the Pi needs, and to step it down to 5V at the Pi end. The advantages to doing this are:

  • supplying 5V directly at one end of the cable means the Pi would get less than 5V, due to the resistance in the cable. This would make the Pi less reliable as the cable got longer.
  • the current in the cable is less, meaning that less electrical power is wasted.
  • the step-down regulator provides (some) protection for the Pi if the cable is mis-connected.
<p>I need a bit of help, I have some Jtron RJ45 sockets (<a href="https://goo.gl/15d86I" rel="nofollow">https://goo.gl/15d86I</a>), and they have LED on them.<br>I want to connect this sockets to a PCB and get the internet in, but I have no idea how to make the LED work(flickering if internet is connected, or transferring data)!<br>Do I just connect them to RX and TX? Is there any standard to do this?</p>
<p>Network connectivity is great, but my switches are only sending 1-2 volts :( </p>
<p>The little knob on top of the blue box on the DC-DC regular can be adjusted to whatever voltage you need. I would use a multimeter to ensure the correct voltage. I'm currently in the process of making one myself</p>
<p>I ordered some voltage regulators, will post results when they arrive :)</p>
<p>Nice job!</p><p>i will definitely try this!</p><p>Does anywone tried this specific poe splitter for the raspberry Pi (or something similar?): </p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Active-PoE-Splitter-Power-Over-Ethernet-48V-to-5V-2-4A-Micro-USB-4-/222158152107?hash=item33b9a861ab:g:QKQAAOSwMNxXZibc" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Active-PoE-Splitter-Power-...</a></p><p>Looks like cheap garbage but I'm curious :D</p>
<p>Network connectivity is great, but my switches are only sending 1-2 volts :( </p>
<p>Network connectivity is great, but my switches are only sending 1-2 volts :( </p>
<p>LM1117 SOT-223 SMT may help out here. #fyi</p>
<p>This worked out nicely, thx.</p>
<p>Excellent! Glad to be of service.</p>
<p>This looks quite neat! Thanks for sharing!</p>
not sure if you are aware, but I believe there is a package 5v switching regulator out there in a package... not sure about it, I'll have to see if I can find the data sheet <br>

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