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Wooden Stake Sides, Ford Super Duty

I own a 2005 Super Duty super cab long bed, and it gets used for a diversity of purposes. I have a cap that I take on and off depending on what I'm doing, and a cool Rhino Rack for the cap that I can remove. I have often thought that it would be quite useful to utilize the already existing stake pockets in the bed rails to build up the sides for certain purposes like hauling wood, trash, mulch, or anything else I don't want spilling onto these pot-holed Pennsylvania roads.

I have been searching the web far and wide to find plans for pickup truck stake sides. There really is no such thing. Then I tried searching for just photos. There is a lot of stuff for 1940s truck sides, and plywood "Sandford and Sons" contraptions, but I wanted something that was useful and also complemented the look of my truck, not make it look like a scrapper's truck!

I'm not really a wood worker, but after lots of thinking, measurements, and some sketches, I bought the lumber and the hardware and made some sides for my Super Duty.

Here was my idea and my process:

1. Sides need to look good but be functional

2. I wanted them to fit the style of the truck

3. I didn't want them sticking out past the cab or above it. No "boxy" look!

4. I wanted a good, sturdy, tight fit.

5. Easily removable.

6. Weather resistant

Here is how I made them:

Step 1: Make the "stakes" to Fit Into the Stake Pockets

Because I did not want these sides to stick up past the truck cab and completely destroy the styling of the truck, my sideboards could be no taller than 15" above the bed rails. I used pressure treated 2x4s for the 6 stakes that support the sideboards and cut them to the appropriate length; depth of pocket plus 15" (except for the rear ones which are shorter because of how I chose to style the rear of the sideboards).

The stake pockets on Ford trucks are not large enough to fit a 2x4, I had to rip my 2x4s down to fit. Also, the pockets have rounded corners, so the corners of my now slimmer 2x4s also had to come off.

To secure the stakes in the pockets, I drilled holes through the 2x4s from the factory holes that exist in the bed into the pockets. I put 1/4-20 T-nuts on the outside of the stakes so that I could drive a 1/4-20 screw through the factory holes in the bed and draw in the bottom of the stake to keep the sides sturdy and secure. This also keeps them from rattling down these pot-holed Pennsylvania roads!

Step 2: Cut and Bolt on Sideboards

For the sideboards, I bought 10 ft-long pressure treated 1x6s. Since my boards could be no higher than 15", I actually trimmed the 1x6s down to just under 5" wide so that I could stay beneath my 15" rule. All 1-bys got their edges routed with a 1/4" round-over bit.

Because I wanted these sides to look good, I scribed the leading edge of the side rails to match the slight curve the back of the cab has. On the trailing edge I tried to select an angle that complemented the shape of the truck.

Also, stake sides, such as these, should have the vertical "stakes" on the outside of the sideboards! I see them done the other way (stakes on the inside) all the time, and I presume it's for a "cleaner" look, but I think it just looks weird. My reasons for doing it this way are:

  • It's the way it's done on commercial trucks and trailers,
  • It looks better by breaking up those 8ft long boards,
  • the inside of your cargo box is smooth; no vertical stakes to catch your load or reduce your space,
  • the Ford Super Duty, at least, is designed so that when you put a 1x board on the inside of your stake, your sideboards will line up perfectly with the bed rail below!

I pre-drilled all of the holes and used 3/8" carriage bolts (I think) with a flat washer, lock washer, and nut to tie everything together.

Step 3: Headache Rack

This is all about protecting that rear window! As a bonus, it adds rigidity to your sideboards.

I built slots on the inside of the sideboards out of the scrap I ripped off my1x6s for the headache rack to slide into. Then I used the same size board (the bottom one is slightly larger because the front of the bed is slightly lower than the sides) for the headache rack as I did on the sides and trimmed the top board to curve with the cab because I didn't want it sticking out, of course!

I added some "L" brackets to reinforce the whole system. They are permanently screwed into the sideboards, but the headache rack has 2 1/4-20 T-nuts so that the rack can be removed when I take the boards off.

There are also 2 vertical 1x6s on the other side of the headache rack that act as the "stakes" on the sideboards do. They aren't in any pockets, but are just there to hold the 4 boards together.

You could cut some sort of window with wire mesh in the rack for rear visibility, but I chose to leave it solid. I was sure to leave the high-mount brake light visible, however.

Step 4: Enjoy Your Added Cargo Capacity!

Load it up (safely)! On my Ford 8ft bed, I calculated that the sides increased my cargo volume by about 75%!

By backing out the screws in each of the stakes and the two on the headache rack, my sides come off in 3 pieces and can be stored taking up very little space. I let them dry out for a year and then put some sealer on them to protect them and preserve the color that I thought went with my blue truck pretty well.

I'm sure this design could be used and slightly modified to fit other brand trucks, though I am not familiar with their stake pocket designs like I am with Ford.

Feel free to ask if you need further clarification or more photos on anything.

Matt

<p>For a follow up, maybe Ford expects everyone to use rectangular steel tubing in the stake holes? It was hard to find but this place has 1.5 by 2 inch tubing:</p><p><a href="http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/hrsteel2.phtml?page=rttube" rel="nofollow">http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/hrsteel2.phtml...</a></p><p>They have it in four wall thicknesses. (16ga, 14ga, 11ga, and 3/16 inch wall thickness.)</p><p>1.5 by 2 inch fits into the 1.7 by 2.3 inch holes on a 1999-2003 F250 &amp; F350. </p><p>For me, trimming down 2x4s is easier than dealing with metal.</p>
<p>The 1.7 by 2.3 inch stake pockets are designed to accept a standard wooden 2x3 stud. It's a near-perfect fit.</p>
<p>Great info! </p><p>I'm less concerned about looks since I am building for short duration and a specific purpose. I am moving 800+ miles and I want to fill the bed up! I'm going to add three cross members so that I can put a king box spring &amp; mattress on top. The top of the mattress will end up at the top of the sideboards. </p><p>When I am done it will come off, and get put into storage or sell it on Craigslist.</p><p>I might end up making a more permanent one like yours that if functional AND looks good for everyday use later. </p><p>FYI, 1999-2003 F250 and F350 beds have 1.7 inch by 2.3 inch stake holes.</p>
<p>I have a 2004 F150 8' bed with six stake holes that are about 2 1/4ths&quot; by 1 1/2&quot; which is a difficult size to find in treated lumber. I bought my lumber and was ready to make my sideboards like my friend with a Cheverolet which uses 2/4s and am now at a standstill since I don't have a panel saw and am not too keen on using a table saw or circular saw to make the stakes out of treated 2/4s which the lumber stores supposedly are prohibited from doing so. Where can I get such or do I already have the answer and need to take my treated lumber for sides back?</p>
<p>Jim, I doubt you will be able to find any lumber, pressure treated or not, that fits the pockets on the Fords. I think you have a couple of options though. You could ask a friend who has the tools and is confident in using them to rip your 2x4s down for you so they fit. Another option is to just reduce the size of the 2x4 at one end where it fits into the stake pocket, instead of ripping the entire board. You'll still need a saw, though. Another thing you could do is buy smaller stock and glue and screw them together to fabricate a stake that will fill your stake pockets.</p><p>Regardless of what you do, I think it is important that your stakes fit as tightly as possible. The wood is going to shrink anyway, and the tighter it is, the more sturdy it will be.</p><p>I'd find a friend with a saw and just have him shape your 2x4s. After that, the cutting and ripping isn't quite as intense!</p><p>Post a picture or two once it's done. It's fun to see others' versions of this!</p>
<p>1999-2003 F250 &amp; F350 beds have 2.3 inch by 1.7 inch stake holes. I'm not sure what Ford was thinking, but thanks guys...</p><p>Looks like I'll be cutting some 2x4s down.</p>
<p>I'm not sure what the reason for those sizes is either!</p>
<p>You are right, &quot;...searching the web far and wide to find plans for pickup truck stake sides. There really is no such thing.&quot; I will be constructing sides for my 2014 Ram 1500 and have been looking for trucks while on the road and at pics, wherever I can find them, in order to gather ideas for my fancy. Your fence turned out very nice.</p><p>I think those fences we see with the posts on the inside of the truck are more for show rather than for function and durability. I am not a structural engineer, but I would think that with heavier loads against the fence there would be more stress on the bolts with the posts on the inside. Otherwise, the stress would be mainly on the posts. Thanks for the pics.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/DavidZ49" rel="nofollow">DavidZ49</a>,</p><p>Glad this was a helpful Instructable! Post some photos once you get your sides built for your pickup! Aside from the posts on the outside making more sense from a load standpoint, I think it just plain looks better that way! I use mine a lot, in fact I just took them off ahead of this blizzard we're about to get and put my cap on the truck. In the spring I'll put on my yearly coat of Thompson's Water Sealer and put them back on the truck again!</p>
<p>Done.</p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Stake-SidesFence-Sides-for-2014-Dodge-1500-4x4-Pic/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Stake-SidesFence-S...</a></p>
<p>David_Z,</p><p>Thanks for posting your Instructable here. I checked it out. I really like what you did with the headache rack. It's stylish, yet still protecting your window. Great job. I really enjoy seeing how guys put their own twist on this project for their trucks.</p>
<p>Also, i did my own website for my landscape business:</p><p><a href="http://www.greenfieldlandscapers.com/" rel="nofollow">http://www.greenfieldlandscapers.com/ </a> </p><p>Also, I will add some images about , how to build a shelf in an enclosed trailer for LANDSCAPERS... If you have questions about how do i build my website or my wood side rack let me now.. Thanks</p>
<p>I just build my wood sideboards for my Ford Super Duty 2006. I did it a little big, because i have a small landscape company and i will need to pud a lot of Leaf Removal, mulch, tree removal and more...</p><p>My company is call GreenField Landscapers</p><p>URL: <a href="http://www.greenfieldlandscapers.com," rel="nofollow"> www.greenfieldlandscapers.com, </a> </p><p>If you have any question about this wood siderack let me now.</p>
<p>I should have mentioned that I left a gap just above the truck box sides, so as to leave lots of places for tying loads down if need be. And I decided to put a window in the headache rack. The steel diamond screen was also from Metal Supermarket, and cost 12 bucks. </p><p>So it's not all that pretty, but I'm pleased with the result nonetheless.</p>
<p>Well, I got 'er done! At first glance, you'll probably think my project doesn't look like it is based on the one you shared here, but it actually is; at least that's where I got the inspiration to build mine.</p><p>In contrast to yours, I went for the full-on boxy look, and threw style to the wind. I got six 4' pieces of 1 1/4&quot; steel tube from Metal Supermarket, and ripped a 5/8&quot; sheet of plywood in half to do the sides, and then added a couple of one by fours to the top just to give it a bit more storage capacity. I plan to use my truck for moving from one town to another, so this will give me more height than I really need, but maybe I'll use it later, like maybe to tie a refrigerator or something.</p><p>I made the headache rack so I can remove it with no tools - just four eye bolts (two on either side) on the side walls, and four tie downs on the headache rack. The headache rack just slides down into the eye bolts, and I use a bungee on either side just to make sure it can't bounce out from bumps on the road, etc.</p><p>I used Ready Rod to make the two back hinges pins, and bought a couple of gate hinges for the rear gate. I use another piece of Ready Rod as a pin to hold it shut, or open to the right side as needed.</p><p>I finished by painting it with a can of Tremclad, and that's pretty much it. It took a lot longer to construct than it probably should have, but I was pretty much winging it from the mental pictures I had from your article here. </p><p>If desired, I can take the whole thing apart in about a minute or two; I only need to take one lock nut off the bottom hinge.</p><p>So I'll be the last guy to pretend that the result is pretty, but I think I'll get tons of use out of it. And even though it looks very little like mattop1176's project, I have to say that had I not found his article, I'd probably still be trying to figure out how I was going to do this. So mattop1176, you have my gratitude.</p><p>Now to go and fill it up with boxes!</p>
<p>I will be making something based on this very soon for my 1992 F 250. Very glad to have found it. Will post a picture or two when I'm done. But I think I will try to work a window into the headache rack.</p>
<p>hello i have a Toyota Tundra 2012 crucab... i would like my truck to have a wooden sideboards/stake sides.. not too high .. i live in bayonne New Jersey ... how much would you charge to build them for my truck? i hope you can help me... thank you</p>
<p>hello i have a Toyota Tundra 2012 crucab... i would like my truck to have a wooden sideboards/stake sides.. not too high .. i live in bayonne New Jersey ... how much would you charge to build them for my truck? i hope you can help me... thank you</p>
<p>Rodman,</p><p>I'll send you a message.</p>
<p>How much would you charge to build them for 2007 F250 6.5 ft bed?</p>
<p>Your sideboards are really nice! I have modified your design a little using Veranda decking material which is the synthetic deck material that doesn't warp, fade or rot. I added some metal U braces to stabilize the headboard. I have it mounted on a 1992 Ford F150 long bed.</p>
<p>jJegotcher,</p><p>Nice! I like seeing other peoples' variations on what I've done! It definitely has a bit of a different look, but I think it looks pretty good on your truck! Mine have come in handy in a lot of ways I didn't even expect. I have my cap on the truck for the winter months, but during the summer it's usually sideboards all the time! I think you'll find them quite handy. Thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>Your sideboards are really nice! I have modified your design a little using Veranda decking material which is the synthetic deck material that doesn't warp, fade or rot. I added some metal U braces to stabilize the headboard. I have it mounted on a 1992 Ford F150 long bed.</p>
That is the best set up I have seen yet. Do you make those for sale? I have a ford f 150 and don't want to trash my truck out.
<p>Thanks, I appreciate the compliment! I do not make them for sale at this time, though I wouldn't say that I'm necessarily opposed to it. I often thought if there was enough demand, it's something I could do on the side. Maybe offer a kit containing all the parts and assembly instructions or something, or completely assembled. I don't know.<br><br>Just to get a little more info--where are you located and what year F-150 do you own and what size is the bed? I'm not promising anything, but if I have access to or know someone with the same truck and configuration you have, I can look into what it would take.</p>
<p>Some good work, good documentation, and a good look. Excellent work.</p>
<p>Well done, and it <em>looks</em> <em>good</em> too! I have been thinking about doing something like this for my 2500 Dodge Ram. We use a loose collection of stakes and furring strips held together with drywall screws and bungee cords for hauling runs, the truck looks as bad as the trash and we end up saving the boards in the shed so I don't have to cut more the next time... you may have motivated me to try this! </p>
<p>Thanks for the compliment! If you do build something, I'd love to see a few photos!</p>
<p>Good job, really like the touch where you followed the curve of the truck cab. One thing that would be helpful is a window in the headache rack. This could cut then covered with clear plastic. </p>
<p>Nice job!</p>

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