Update Feb 25 2012: Warning, I may have discovered a bug inside the CadSoft EAGLE 6.1.0 software that may make the PCB look slightly different. My design files are meant for 5.11 so use that instead. You have been warned.
Main Features:
- X mode flying
- MPU-6000 gyro & accelerometer sensor for flight stabilization
- USB battery recharging on the transmitter, the copter plugs into the transmitter to recharge
- When the copter plugs into the transmitter, the user can synchronize to a random radio frequency
- Controlled using a Wii Classic Controller, which plugs into the transmitter
- Running a modified MultiWii firmware, which is open source, written with Arduino and Processing
- Square center body is 1.5" by 1.5"
- Propellers are about 45mm in diameter
- Diagonal motor to motor distance is 110mm
- Motors are supposedly "X-Twin" spare motors, they come with the propellers
- Flight battery is a single Li-poly cell, 3.7V, 350mAH, 20C
- Controller battery is a single Li-ion cell, 3.7V, 1000mAH
- Uses ATmega128RFA1 microcontroller for both copter and transmitter
- This particular ATmega has a built-in 2.4GHz transceiver, 16 possible channels, 250kbit/s or 2mbit/s max depending on the standard being used.
- The "arms" and "body" are connected by locking slots, making them easy to build and repair
- Motors slide right into the arm
- Two layer 1.6mm thick FR4 PCB used (this is the default for a lot of PCB manufactures), the components are all on a single side (easy to assemble)
- All open source project, schematics + PCB + code all available. Heavy use of Arduino and Zigduino involved.
Step 0 Come up with puntastic name
Pico... Copter... You get the idea. This project was originally named "PalmQuad" since it's small enough to fit in your palm, so if you might see some mention of this name in the code or pictures.
I originally finished building "version 1" in November, and wrote the Instructable in November. Then I went on vacation for a few weeks, and also school just started. Now it is February and I just finished "version 2", but since I've already written the majority of the Instructable, I have some bits of "version 1" text that I'll just
All project files are available to download in this instructable "step". It contains files for "version 1" only for reference purposes, please only use "version 2" files. Although I really recommend you only take my concepts and design everything from scratch yourself instead, just so there's absolutely no mysteries in your project.
If you are wondering about the lack of a flight video, see step 6 for an explanation.
Oh and I noticed that "AdBlock" stops Instructables from showing you all my pictures, so please turn it off.
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Signing UpStep 1: Version 1's Build Log
Version 1 is soldered using the reflow soldering method (see my other instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/Hack-a-Toaster-Oven-for-Reflow-Soldering/), version 2 was not due to time constraints and l didn't bring my oven to school. I managed to solder the QFN chips with a heatgun.
In version 1, the flyback diode for each motor was mounted onto the arms, but in version 2, the flyback diodes are in the main quadcopter body PCB instead.
In version 1, the propellers required a drilling before they fit onto the motor. The motors in version 2 comes with the propellers pre-attached so the drilling is no longer necessary. However, please read step 6 to see why you should use the motors from version 1 instead.




















































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from where to get those 2 green plates 1 for quadracopter and 1 for transmitter and what is there plate number .plz tell fast i wanted to make and sir as i wanted to order somethings at digikey.com there are comming 3 options all are same but there is comming tape and reel,cut tape and digi reel. which one i should select...... plz tell fast sir plzzzzzzzzzz
I ordered all parts at Digikey, Sparkfun & ebay and ended up paying 190 euro incl. shipping to EU and printing 3 qc/tx pcbs. I was expecting something among 100 euro but I didn't want to go back after ordering the first parts :)
Batch ordered, a kit might cost something around 150 euros I'd guess.
It's amazingly easy to find everything you've listed here; no exotic parts or anything, in fact, hardest part is finding a cheap li-po.
Do you have any idea how much payload this thing can carry? Or what flight time you achieve with whatever battery you're using?
Impatiently waiting for my orders... 8)
Maybe i got an idea for you to use different propellers.
The problem with these propellers is that people put their fingers to near to it, or they get damaged when you hit something during flight, Maybe you remember thse kid toys :
http://www.papstar-products.com/papstar_pe/prodpic/4-Toys-Flying-propeller-18909_b_0.JPG
i think if you raise the outer circle a bit (strip of thin hard sheet) it would improve the blade too (better earodynamics for end of proppellor.)
Instead of using jumper blocks, have you considered these plunger switches?
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15214
They're less of a hassle and they'll fit the same footprint assuming you're using 2 * thru hole .1 inch headers. If you're using SMT headers for the jumpers, still doable but will require bending the switch pins and perhaps a dab of hot glue.
If possible, selling two versions of this, one being a 'assembly kit' while the other a 'ready to use', would be a brilliant idea!
-yes there is a pun
Quick question about using the USBTinyISP to flash the AVR chip. The Adafruit docs say that the USBTinyISP can't flash larger than 64K sized chips, and the ATMega128rfa1 looks like it's 128K.
You didn't experience any problems though it sounds like? Just wanted to doublecheck as I'm about to pick up the ISP programmer from Adafruit.
Thx! Awesome project!
Eric
But the problem is reading the 128KB, it won't work, which means you cannot really perform the verification step, and AVRDUDE will think that it failed since the verification fails. In reality, it might have failed, it might have worked, you have no way of knowing unless you do a lot of testing. In the end, I just check if my bootloader is working, and then use the bootloader from that point onwards.
Thanks!
You need to get a special Spektrum receiver that outputs a single PPM signal that combines all the channels.
If you get one small enough, you can probably mount it onto the quadcopter itself and wire it to one of the SPI pins available on the docking connector. Or else you wire it to the docking connector of the transmitter circuit. I would probably create a entire "Spektrum Addon Module" that docks with the transmitter circuit.
The software needs to be modified to read the combined PPM signal. I've done this many times before. It's a piece of code that continuously measures pulse widths using a timer and pin change interrupts.
So if you have a tiny receiver, the quadcopter can take commands from the Spektrum directly, but if you don't have a tiny receiver, then my transmitter circuit can act as a relay for the commands.
Both methods will be highly experimental and require a lot of testing
Almost any ATmega should work, do a comparison with the ATmega328P, if it has the same or more timers, and the same or more memory, then it should work.