Step 6: All done - now test it!

Wiring is now complete! Make sure the jack nut is tightened down securely. Carefully install the sheet metal cover back in place using the four small screws. Insert the batteries, and test out the amp. With nothing plugged into the newly added jack, sound should come out of the Pignose speaker as usual.

Now open the amp case, and plug a 1/4" audio cord into the new jack. Plug the other end into an 8ohm speaker cabinet - any size - and try it out. Good luck, and enjoy.

The attached schematic diagram shows what we just did.
just wondering if you could help me out with a pignose-related question i have...<br><br>i was given a gutted 7-100, so i decided i'd just strip whatever there was of use out of it. one of the components i got out of it is the one of the jacks. could you help me out by explaining what all of the lugs are for? or maybe just how it's supposed to be wired?<br><br>i really don't know what happened to it, but it was torn apart on the inside and had leaking batteries and, i assume, dried soda pooled in one corner. because of all that, i don't know if the wires attached to the jack are even all that's supposed to be there.<br><br>any help would be appreciated.
I will give it a shot - this week is crazy for me, so it may take me a few days to give you a detailed response, I apologize in advance. Can you tell me which jack you have a question about? There are three on a stock Pignose: the input jack on the front, the preamp out (also a 1/4&quot; diameter jack) on the back, and the 9VDC power input jack on the back as well(A smaller 1/8th&quot; jack).<br><br>The &quot;dried soda&quot; you see inside could actually be from the leaked batteries.<br><br>When you say it was gutted, does that mean all of the electronics were stripped out?<br><br>I'll get back to you as soon as possible. Thanks.
alright, i went back to look and found that i have both of the 1/4&quot; jacks. those are the ones i meant, and should have specified. sorry about that.<br><br>i've dealt with regular guitar jacks, but these things have 6 extra lugs. from what i can see inside, i figured that maybe they work like a jack and a switch... but, i dunno.<br><br>as for the &quot;soda&quot;... yeah, i tasted it and you were absolutely right. (hah! just kidding.) <br><br>on the gutted topic, the transformers were still there and about half of everything else that was supposed to be on the board with them was also there. the speaker was there. the volume pot was there (it's a bit wonky, but it still works)... ummm, that's pretty much all i was able to salvage out of it. maybe if i can clean out the cabinet itself, i'll reuse it.<br><br>thanks, and take your time.
I created a video to compare the sound of the Pignose speaker to the sound of an external speaker. Please check out the following Youtube link:<br><br>http://youtu.be/QPnE2rMfqEE
It is not quite the same jack as a switched headphone jack; this one is mono, the 'phones jack is stereo but the concept is the same.<br><br>Actually battery life will be the same, as long as the external speaker you use is rated at 8 ohms impedance (the same as the internal Piggy speaker). As long s the impedance is the same, the amplifier has no idea what it is &quot;seeing&quot;, so the power consumption is the same. For example, if you have a speaker cab with four 8 ohm speakers inside, they are connected in a series-parallel configuration. Two 8ohm speakers in series totals 16 ohms, then the other two series connected 8 ohm speakers (16 ohms total again) are connected in parallel so the total impedance is back to 8 ohms. <br><br>The little Piggy will seem louder, and will certainly have much more bass response with the bigger speakers.
Does that also qualify as the headphone switched output jack? I guess you would wear out the batteries pretty quick if it were to drive some large speakers. Crank that nose up past 11.

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Bio: I'm a guitar playing electronics engineer...
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