I used to hate my air compressor, until I hacked it. And now I love it!

Step 1: Air Cable Management

First I wrapped some velcro tape at the handle to secure the air cable. No more falling cables!

Velcro tape zips and unzips virtually indefinitely.

Step 2: Lengthen the Power Cable

The power cable of the unit was only 1 meter. Way too short for me!

If I wanted to refill it with air, I had to go really close to the power outlet which was uncomfortable.

So I installed an additional 2.5 meters of cable and now I have plenty of freedom.

Step 3: Wheels Upgrade

The wheels of the unit were full plastic and offered a harsh ride when I wanted to take the compressor outside to check the car tyres.

I salvaged a pair of wheels from a broken agricultural generator and put them to good use.

I removed the old wheels and drilled larger holes at the chassis in order to fit a galvanised pipe which is the axle of the wheels. I further processed the holes with a file.

Then I cut pieces from a black irrigation pipe and used them as inner and outer shims.

Finally I installed garden hose fasteners to secure the pieces.

For aesthetics I also installed plastic caps at both ends of the axle.

Step 4: Adjust the Leg

After the wheels upgrade, I needed to level the unit by adjusting the support pipe.

For this purpose I welded an extension leg using the same material I used for the axle.

Then I painted it red because I didn't have any orange paint available.

Step 5: Finished!

With these hacks I have to admit that this unit's functionality sky-rocketed. That's how it should have been made from the manufacturer in the first place.

If you have made something similar don't hesitate to post a photo in the comments.

Also if you have other suggestions and tips.

<p>Rather than modifying the power cord, a longer air hose gives more range and doesn't affect the compressor.</p>
<p>This is a valid alternative. Since I already had the air hose and I didn't want to replace it, I modified the power cable. Thanks for commenting.</p>
Your tank should have a little slope towards the drain so that you can remove all standing water.
<p>The drain in this model lies in the bottom middle of the tank. When the time has come to flush the water, I elevate and secure the wheels (I use a step for that), unscrew slightly the valve and with up and down motions all the water gets out. Of course the tank is not fully pressurized but has 1-2 psi inside. Thanks for commenting.</p>
<p>Thank you for your comments. I used the old cable plus the extension because I wanted to utilize the factory made power plug already installed in the old cable. I will consider replacing this setup with a longer heavier gauge cable.</p>
<p>What darkroommike said, get a heavier gauge cable, the longer run will cause a higher voltage drop, and the splice is a point of failure. At best you'll under power the motor, worst case you'll have an electrical fire.</p>
<p>Splicing the power cable like that is not safe you should just replace the entire cable with a longer and heavier gauge cable and make your connections inside the &quot;box&quot; on the compressor.</p>

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