its not quite like your favorite chair or the desk you work at, even though it serves similar functions...
You may not even use it everyday, but when you want to put your feet up,
or reach for a book on the highest shelf,
its an under appreciated convenience to have one of these crickets at hand.
The following tutorial is a revision of a prototype I built a while back. This time around It took about a week to build, working a few hours a day, taking time to snap photographs and record video throughout most of the process. Hopefully these instructions will help you cut down the time it takes to build your very own foot stool.
as of 01-03-2013 this is still a work in progress, there are some steps which still need clarification.
Step 1: Materials & Tools
3 - 40cm x 1 x 10" kiln dried and dimensioned solid pine wood
4 - 45cm[aprox] x 1 x 1" kiln dried and dimensioned solid pine wood
1 - jeans pant leg[aprox]
x - thread for sewing
1 - used yoga mat
3 - letter size card stock
1 - tenon saw (sierra de costilla)
2 - 4" clamp (prensa 4 pulgadas)
1 - 8mm drill bit (diameter)
1 - hole saw 2 1/2" diameter (broca de copa 65mm)
1 - jig saw (sierra caladora)
1 - sewing machine (maquina de coser)
1 - drill (taladro)
1 - pencil
1 - box cutter
1 - rule
1 - (ángulo)
1 - compass
4 - markers [preferibly different colors]
1 - rubber mallet
x - sand paper (papel lija)
x - spare blocks of wood for clamping and sanding
Step 2: CUT OUT Marking Templates #1-3
The fourth template comes from a previous tutorial
Step 3: MARK UP Stool Legs
Then take template #3 and mark the locations where the beam joint will go. Align the template on the board so that the edge meets up with the line on the template, then slide it down aligning the top edge of the template with the bottom line of the previously marked cut out and mark the second cut out on that edge.
To mark the third and forth leg cut outs, turn the template same template inside out, align it the same way you did previously and mark the inner perimeter. Then, with a rule, trace a line that connects the bottom line of the marked cut out regions on opposite sides of the board for both sets of cut outs. Those, in combination with the center line help determine where to drill the perforations in the leg board. (in the video you´ll see a slight variation but the idea is the same.)
Once you have the perforations marked, define the width of the feet of the stool and draw a line connecting that to the third perforation from the top. Mark both lines and then you´re ready to start cutting and drilling.
Step 4: SAW Grooves in Legs
Note: when cutting the diagonal grooves, re-position yourself so that your shoulder and arm are in line with the angle of the pencil line, it helps keep the blade of the saw perpendicular to the board edge.
Step 5: DRILL Perforations in Stool Legs
For the apex of the triangular cut out in the base of the stool legs, use the same drill bit as for the first perforation made earlier.
Step 6: SAW Three Cut Outs in Legs
1. Use a jig saw to cut out the top edge joint where the seat will fit in later (00:00 - 01:15)
2. With the same saw, cut along the marked lines that connect the feet of the leg with the small perforation near the center.
(01:17 - 03:04)
3. Finally, round the top corners of each leg, four in total (03:06 - 01:15)
Step 7: Remove Final Cut Outs With Chisel
It may not be quite as fun as this, but...
I think there´s definitely a bit of that experience in here :)
Step 8: SAND & FIT Legs to Seat
Step 9: SAW & SAND Seat Edges
Instead of starting to sand the curve right away, use a jig saw to remove most of the corner first, saving time, energy and a lot of saw dust in the process. Before beginning, make sure there´s a rough toothed blade in place and readjust the angle of base plate to its widest setting (45º in this case).
Once that´s secure, make a test cut to check that you´re not going to remove too much material. I made the mistake of cutting in the wrong place without doing the test, and although it didn´t hurt the project, it was frustrating. Mark a line from the test cut that you want to follow through with and use it as a guide when you´re sawing.
Note: you may notice that when cutting in the grain of the board, the saw makes a more agreeable noise than when sawing against the grain
Now that most of the corner has been removed, you can start smoothing out the curve. I started by filing down the edges before going to a rough grit sand paper block (50-80 grit) leaving the final sanding for later on in the process, but in any case, that edge will get covered by the denim so it doesn´t have to be that smooth.
Step 10: MARK & SAW Cutouts in Wood Beams
With the first four cut outs marked, using a tenon saw, start sawing a 4mm groove into the beam and then incline the saw and rough out the cut out. When that´s done, you can go back and sand the cut outs till they´re smooth and repeat for all 4 beams.
Step 11: COLOR Code the Beam Cut Outs and Matching Leg Cut Outs
While your color coding the beams, mark the distance where the second beam cut out will go, and align the template accordingly before sawing like in the previous step.
Step 13: SAND Edges to Taste
Step 14: UNDO Jean Pant Leg Inseam
Using the reamer ensures that as much of the denim material remains relatively intact for future use, and although i´ve probably mentioned it before, I feel its appropriate to take care in disassembling stuff that someone put time and effort into putting together in the first place. It may take a bit longer than you´d like, but while you´re working on snapping the threads you can listen to music or a documentary you wouldn´t otherwise get around to watching.
For the denim strap, and given the width of the stool, you´ll only need to undo the one seam of the jean leg.
Step 15: MEASURE & MARK Denim Rectangle
Before you start marking up the fabric, measure the width of the seat so that the resulting denim strap will cover most of it, making sure that the strap will come close to the ends of the stool, but not hang over the edges.
Based on the width you measured, mark lines along the denim fabric so that you´ll be left with a rectangular strap. Leave roughly an inch of margin on each side, especially if you plan on cutting off the excess fabric so that you can fold it over to finish the long edges. In this case, I chose not to cuff of the excess and just tuck it inwards to create the denim strap.
Step 16: SEW Long Edges
Step 17: MEASURE Length for Beam Sleeve
If you decide not to cut off the frayed edges there may be some gaps in the sleeve, as long as they´re not too big it should still be strong enough to withstand some stretching later on.