Get the closest possible to the maximum5.0 oz.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1Acquire all the parts
1 Ea. Pinewood Derby boxed set.
Contents:
Wooden block
4 Plastic wheels
4 Metal "axles" (nails)
Set of fishing weights
1 Ea. 35mm Film Canister with lid
Fast Setting Epoxy or Hot Melt Glue
Tools:
Drill Press
2 Forstener bits (1 the size of the cannister, and the other slightly larger than the lid)
Dremel Tool with sanding drum attachment
(You can forgo the drill press and bits, but you won't get the tight fit that looks good.)
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |















































And to the OP, is the rear of the car the best spot for the weights? I thought that having them nearest the nose was most beneficial?
I read this somewhere, but can't remember where. I am just paraphrasing from memory:
In the past people have cheated by using some sort of mechanism that rolled a ball bearing from the back of the car to the front. The mechanisms were hidden inside the car. The act of the bearing striking the front of the car after the launch gave the car an added boost of speed. The car's owners were disqualified after someone got suspicious and checked the car.
In regards to the weight placement, right in front of the rear axle is considered the best placement. If it is behind the rear axle it makes the front too light and makes the nose want to hop every time the front wheels roll over the track joints. You want the center mass (weights) positioned as high up as possible on a slope because once the car is level the center mass's momentum can no longer be affected by gravity. Since the rear of the car is the last portion that makes it to the flat track gravity is pulling the center mass down until that point in time.
http://www.pinewoodprofessor.com/weight.html
Thanks for the comment.
Note the last rule. "No loose materials of any kind are allowed in the car."
Be sure to check the rules for your Pack before using this method.