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Signing UpStep 1: The raw materials
1. A body cap for your camera (I got a spare one for £1 on ebay)
2. Some thin metal (eg. foil, the side of a drinks can)
3. Tape
The trick of this method is using the body cap as the support for the pinhole. It is a perfect fit for the camera, has no light leaks, is easy to fit and remove (with no chance of causing damage to the camera) and is easy to modify. The thin metal will be used to make the actual pinhole, any piece of thin and soft metal (aluminium is ideal) will do.










































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They used to be available through Wathers.com A model railroad wholesaler/retailer. Not seeing them on their website
Following their lead and trying a co-lens mounted on the front might improve this lens.
the reason i asked is because it is exactly like the one i have
Check attached image for an example of how sharp you can get them by just doing it by hand without calculating anything. With proper calculations and preciser drilling of the hole you can get a dead sharp image.
(image is from a pinhole camera using photographic paper. principle is the same tho)
http://www.stanford.edu/~cpatton/phcalc3.htm
The long and the short of it is that the longer the focal length and the larger the sensor/photographic film the sharper the image can be. For a DSLR with a short focal length (~3 cm in my case) the optimum pinhole size would be about 0.18mm. At this size diffraction effects would be significantly blurring the image forcing me to use a pinhole size of closer to 0.3mm.
To calculate the resolution think about two rays of light coming from a point at infinity (so the rays are parallel). The maximum separation of the rays once they hit the sensor is the same as the size of the pinhole, 0.3mm. My DSLR sensor is ~1.7cm accross therefore the blur due to the pinhole is going to be 0.3/170*100=1.8% of the image frame.
Using much larger focal lengths and sensor sizes can reduce the blur (as a percent of the image frame) - the example above is probably using a pinhole of ~0.3mm and a sensor (photographic paper size) of ~10cm, therefore the blur is 0.03% of the image frame.
With the way I've got things set up I had to use a fairly long telephoto setting to get the whole frame. I'll re-hash it so I can go wider.
I was using a 3.5" exposure at full aperture and some of my shots had a blur as the tripod hadn't fully settled, but these are the best ones.