Introduction: Pipe Lamp
I needed a desk lamp for one of the computer desks in my study, and couldn't find one that fit my needs. I wanted a lamp that would be adjustable both in height and reach, and it had to fit within a fairly small space. Also, it had to look a bit unusual so it would go with everything else in the room. I took a look around my shop, and guess what? I had almost all the parts I needed to build just such a lamp.
Step 1: Materials Required
The materials I used for this lamp were as follows:
- the sprocket from a bicycle (the big one from the crank)
- two 18" lengths of 1/2 inch threaded iron pipe
- one pipe floor flange
- one pipe "T" fitting (1/2 3/4 3/4 threads)
- one 1/2" 45 degree pipe fitting
- one 1/2" 90 degree pipe fitting
- two 3/4" copper tubing couplers
- one lamp socket
- one 9' extension cord
- one rubber bushing
- one old mechanic's trouble light
Step 2: Building the Base
For the lamp's base I used the sprocket set from the cranks of an old bicycle. I removed the sprockets as a single unit and cleaned about 10 years worth of dirt and grease off them.
I then drilled holes and mounted the floor flange in the center of the outside (smallest) sprocket.
Next I sprayed the sprocket/flange unit with copper paint. Once the paint was dry, I screwed one of the lengths of black iron pipe into the flange.
Step 3: Making the Lamp Adjustable
The adjustment for the lamp is relatively simple. In Photo 1 you can see that at the top of the pipe fastened to the lamp's base I have attached a 90 degree fitting and a "T" fitting. Since I used 1/2" threaded pipe, the 90 degree fitting and the leg of the "T" are threaded for 1/2" pipe. The other part of the "T" is threaded for 3/4" pipe to allow for a 1/2" pipe to slide through it.
This gives me the ability to swivel the top part of the lamp up and down and slide the top pipe in and out (of the "T" fitting).
In Photo 2 you can see where I drilled and tapped a hole for a set screw to lock the sliding pipe in place. I also soldered 3/4" tubing connectors to the "T" for a couple of reasons: (1) it centers the pipe in the 34 inch part of the "T"; and (2) it sort of looks cool!
For the set screw I used a 1/4" bolt attached to an outdoor faucet handle (Photo 2)
Step 4: Let There Be Light.....
For the business end of the lamp I used the shroud from an old shop light -- I think this are sometimes called mechanic's trouble lights. I removed the shroud from the light and cut off the wire hanger at the top. I cleaned the shroud and painted it with the same copper paint I used for the base.
While the paint was drying I attached the 45 degree fitting on the second iron pipe. I screwed a rubber bushing into the other end of the fitting (Photo 2), and drilled out the bushing to accept the fitting from a new lamp socket. I then cut off the female end of the extension cord and ran the wire through the pipe and wired it to the lamp socket. Next I screwed the lamp socket into the bushing and clamped the shroud around it.
Step 5: Done!
That's all there was to it! The mounting allows for the shroud to be rotated, and the top pipe to swivel up and down, and in and out of the "T" fitting.
This design allows for a lamp with a relatively small footprint to provide just the right amount of light where I need it. And since this lamp was made from mostly junk parts, the price was right, too!
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