Pipe Lamp

A few weeks ago on Boing Boing, they showed off some pipe lamps being sold on etsy. At 200 bucks each i figured i could make my own for a fraction of the cost and have fun doing so.

These lamps are functional and cheap! it cost 30 bucks to make one lamp.

GENERAL WARNING: Although this project involves very little steps it does involve AC power. Please use caution when doing projects using AC outlet power. If you are not comfortable with simple wire soldering and heat shrinking, please use caution with this project.

Step 1 Supplies

For this instructable you will need the following, note that the pipe choices can vary depending on what kind of lamp you want.

Various sizes of galvanized pipe to build your lamp base. (i used 1/2")
1 candelabra style bulb fixture (i chose this one for it's small size)
1 candelabra bulb
AC plug with in-line roll switch
Heat shrink

tools needed:
Soldering iron

Comments

[faitheternal]

How did you secure the light socket inside the pipe? I've been trying to figure out how the maker of Kozo Lamps did it, and I can't figure it out! Any ideas?

[wetigers]

more like penis lamp

[SIRJAMES09]

Q for whoever wishes to answer.

is it NOT a good idea to use schedule 40 pipe for a lamp?
Schedule 40 pipe is that white thick walled plumbing pipe used for water
lines usually.

I'm just wondering if the lamp would get too hot for that,..

Or if it would not be stable enough(IE: be susceptible to tipping over too easily & causing problems that way)?

[jiajunwang]

it looks nice, but wouldn't it be dangerous to use non-coated metal directly on electrical stuff?

[SIRJAMES09]

it would only be dangerous IF, if the insulation around the wire was penetrated exposing the bare wires....THEN, the whole lamp has the potential of being electrified.. Beyond that, I do not see how it it possible.

As long as the insulation covering the wires themselves is ok, you'll be fine

[joerice01]

Also i don't see why he needs to join two cables. Couldn't you just run the flex right to the top of the pipe and connect it to the lamp connector

[static]

Appears to me that a small base lamp was the choice, and a small base lamp holder with the wires factory attached was used. With no way of attaching user provided lamp cord directly to socket terminals.

[joerice01]

Ahh i see. Good to see people recycling. haha

[joerice01]

Using double insulating would help with the safety. Also connecting the exposed metal to ground if available in your country.

[it_dont_work]

if your worried that heat shrink isnt enough. you could use some polly pipe as a sleave through the metal piping. but the heat shrink should be perfectly safe if it isnt cheap suff.

[bombmaker2]

That's why he heat shrunk all the connections, but I agree, it is kinda risky.

[digitlacid]

Thanks for the great instructable, it was inspiring! Here is my take on the idea. . .
By the way, if you want cheap "old-timey" bulbs, go to 1000bulbs.com I got my 30w Radio bulb for $1.71 as opposed to $10+ elsewhere.

[Andreas2307]

Like your T Piece switch, might just "steel" the idea! Yeah I'm lame like that!

[rbrix]

what kinda switch are you using ? homemade?

[digitlacid]

No, it's just a standard in-line switch that you can buy pretty much anywhere they sell lamp parts. Here is one online for a couple of bucks: http://www.amazon.com/Orrco-Jandorf-60180-Lamp-Switch/dp/B004FBL01I/ref=pd_sbs_indust_3

[rbrix]

ahh, I think I mistoke the wire exit for the switch

[digitlacid]

Ahhh. The wire exit IS homemade. The hole from the plumbing pipe was too big in my opinion, so I superglue'd a skateboard bearing to the pipe, then a bearing spacer to the bearing to step the opening down to just larger than the circumference of the wire. This has the added benefit of reducing friction if you move the wire, as the inside of the bearing spins with it :) I hope that answers your question

[PublicArt]

I love your setup!

[digitlacid]

Hey! Thanks very much!

[Andreas2307]

Here is my Version. I used a 12v AC Adapter and a Halogen Bulb.

[Andreus Felipen]

This instructable should be featured

[BrianJewett]

There's no need to stuff a plastic socket into a pipe fitting. Standard lamp pipe is 1/8" and 1/4" npt. It mates perfectly well with pipe fittings of the same size. I just use a reducer and connect a proper lamp socket.

For those who haven't discovered it yet, GrandBrass.com has the best selection of lamp parts in the universe and great pricing as well. It also has groundable sockets.

I also agree that this thing really needs at least a grommet or preferably a strain relief at the bottom. Unless it NEVER moves, this has probably cut through the insulation by now.

[12koolgirl]

I am not going to mention which body part this looks like, I am not going to mention which body part this looks like, I am not going to mention which body part this looks like. Dang it! I just did!

[cyborn95]

lol

[dwendell]

Just a thought. If you wanted a more "upscale" look for the finished product, a plumbing supply store would probably have all the same parts in brass pipe, which you could polish up and then spray with lacquer to preserve the finish.

[kuptis]

Copper would look really nice.

[neonrocks]

this looks like an awkward body part. I was thinking of building it but then i thought to myself, "how many people are going to think this is some kind of innuendo?"

[Carleyy]

looks great!

[mckeephoto]

This was wonderful. It is also the inspiration for my pipe wall lamps. Thank you for posting it! Here is my version if you are interested http://www.instructables.com/id/Pipe-Wall-Light/

[edoucette32]

I totally agree with Mikerm19... I lose count looking around my house at all the metal devices that are NOT grounded! BUT, having said that I also agree that if you build this you should try to incorporate some kind of strain relief into it to minimize the chance of cord damage. Other than that, I love this project and will be looking to build my own version in the not to distant future!

[laci37]

You must connect all metal parts to ground! like this the lamp is quite dangerous.

[fly_boy_bc]

Frankly as-is this thing is a death trap. And illegal in most places. 2 key concepts: GROUND the chassis! Google the term "strain relief"

[jerhpk]

as long as the wiring is insulated, and properly soldered / wrapped, and as long as the bulb fixture is properly insulated, current *should not* get transferred to the base. Keeping the base insulated from the building will also prevent destruction of property. The best bet on wiring is to run a three wire setup (third wire being *duh* ground), second best should be polarized - for those in AC communities. I should mention: I'm not an electrician, but I've absorbed some voltage over the years.

[fly_boy_bc]

Jerhpk. What you are saying is absolutly INCORRECT! Yes if the wiring is properly insulated and properly soldered/shrink wrapped etc. you will not get a shock.....TODAY! But in a few years time with a metal cabinet (like water pipes) the insulation WILL wear out SOMEWHERE and this item WILL be DEADLY. There is a reason this person would be subject to arrest if he sold these in this condition. I have been involved in the manufacture of A/C powered devices all of my career (30+years) and have seen the most robust insulation fail in an amazingly short time due to environment. In a highly ozinated environment this lamp would become a deadly killing machine in a matter of weeks.

[Bernie_R]

Bernie Says: Being a metal construction it shouls have a three pin plug and an earth conection. Regarding the soldering, I also solder everything but that is the difference between Electrical "Gurus" and Electronic "Gurus". However, it would pay to check the solder connections to make sure there are no spikes and put insulation or rubber tape around the joint before the heatshrink.

[cyprian916]

very cool this would be neat to do in series like for bathroom lighting and such.

[wobbler]

Bathroom lighting? This is a really dangerous design to put in a bathroom due to the potential to be for you touching a non-earthed live metal fixture (potentially this!) and an earthed water fixing. The last place this needs to be is in a bathroom or near water in any form. Regarding the earthing/not earthing, in the UK anything like this would be earthed. An easy way to make this safe is to use a 12v halogen or LED and drive it off a low voltage converter, which eliminates both the need to earth it and the potential dangers in the design when using mains.

[mrme01]

Whats the purpose of soldering the wires? Cant you just use standard flex between the lampholder and switch?

[mikerm19]

Ok guys, this is for the people who scream "oh no!!!" for the not grounding of the lamp materials. I personally wouldn't ground it either. Bad house wiring (not uncommon) would make that a giant bare hot wire.... No thanks. Things off the top of my head (and in my apartment) that are made of metal and NOT grounded: Floor Lamp Desk Lamps Toaster Fans Iced Tea Maker CRT Monitors/TV's (talk about high voltage!) I also have helped friends work on houses that have lighting fixtures that are plain out not grounded (or even have the option). There is a problem with everyone believing that grounding everything is the perfect solution. This is not the case. In fact, I actually had a personal experience about grounding. I used to have a tube TV that was un-grounded and going out. I replaced it with an LCD TV that was grounded. As soon as I plugged in my grounded tv cable connection, the TV blew up. It turns out that the hot wire in the metal electrical box was worn (old house) and touching the box. If this lamp was grounded and plugged in, it would of caused a huge shock, or because you most likely would of wrapped your hand around it to pick it up, it might even kill. Sorry guys, but my vote is to NOT ground this.

[servant74]

Sorry to see the nervous nellies bring down this neat hack. Yes safety is very important, but that is part of hacking and is an individual hacker responsibility to make sure their hacks are safe for the intended environment, users, and use. Your hack is a great build. I like it's style. I might change or so as I build it, but that is the great thing about the hacks is that they are inherently modifiable by the builder.