Pipe Light

11,617

225

13

Posted

Introduction: Pipe Light

This is a very simple project to make creative and unique lights out of standard available hardware.

Step 1: Step 1: Tools

All you need is:

1. Flat head screwdriver

2. Box cutter (or other way to strip wire)

Step 2: Step 2: Supplies

What you'll need:

1. 3/8" pipe threaded both ends

2. 3/8" T-joint

3. 3/8" reducer from 3/8" to 1/8"

4. 3/8" pipe wall mount

5. Standard electric wire

6. Light bulb fixture

7. Light bulb

All of what I used was found and then up cycled but all of these can also be found at any local hardware store. Also feel free to get creative with the shapes. For some inspiration on other designs visit www.arcly.co.

Step 3: Step 3: Assembly

Wiring notes:

AC power can be connected with either wire at each terminal to function but for safety follow the below:

Hot: black wire (from the skinny prong) connects to the screw that connects to the interior tip of socket

Neutral: white wire (from the wide prong) connects to the screw that connects to the threaded body of socket

Step 4: Step 4: Get Creative

To get creative inspiration on new pipe configurations and designs go to: www.arcly.co/pipe-light/

Share

Recommendations

  • First Time Author Contest 2018

    First Time Author Contest 2018
  • Sew Warm Contest 2018

    Sew Warm Contest 2018
  • Gluten Free Challenge

    Gluten Free Challenge
user

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.

Tips

Questions

13 Comments

I like the look but you need to tie an 'underwriter's knot' to act as a strain relief inside the socket shell. There are instructions on how to tie it on the 'net. Just search for underwriter's knot.

Great point. I didn't add it to this quick version as the reduced diameter and elbow provided the stain relief I needed for my application but your definitely right it should be added. Here's a little instruction video I found on how to tie it for anyone who does this project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHRaRRWW34w

Also known as a two strand crown knot. I didn't realize it was the same knot till I looked up the Underwriter's Knot after becoming familiar with crown knots.

LOL I don't think I have seen 'underwriter knot' used since I was working on my Boy Scout Merit badge for electricity or was it the Home Repair Badge? Do you suppose they still do that in the Boy Scouts? What with our disposable society the way it is today, hardly anyone fixes anything.

I guess I am just getting old! I still tell people to hit the 'return key' instead of the 'enter key' and remember a full tank of gas for $4.00...

Did I miss the part where you explained the importance of wiring the hot and neutral sides correctly? Just because an AC device will operate either way it's wired doesn't mean that one of those ways isn't the wrong way. Screw this up and you might electrocute the next person to change the bulb.

The hot side must be connected to the center, tip conductor of the socket. The neutral side must be connected to the threaded body conductor of the socket.

If you look at a bulb in a socket you will see that the threaded metal base conductor of the bulb is somewhat exposed and easy to touch (and becomes even more so as you unscrew it). It's easy for something to accidentally fall against that exposed conductor (long wet hair, necklaces, umbrellas, pocket watch chains, transistor radio antennas, pet leashes, propeller beanies, fencing foils -- I've got a longer list if necessary).

The Hot conductor uses a black wire (and/or smooth) that connects to the skinny prong of the AC plug and the tip of the socket.

The Neutral conductor uses a white wire (and/or grooved) that connects to the wide prong of the AC Plug and the threaded body of the socket.

Hot: black, skinny prong --> tip

Neutral: white, wide prong --> body

(Yes, this all assumes an idiot didn't also wire your AC sockets.)

Thanks for all the information for makers of this project. The AC cable that I had was an old cord off a different device that didn't have a wide prong at all so wiring it one way or the other didn't matter because it could be plugged into the wall each way mean hot was switched depending on how it gets plugged into the AC socket. I will add these points to the page for those who do have newer plugs.

Really pretty. I wonder about the bulb fixtures though; I've never stumbled upon ones with 1/4" thread here in Poland. The standard thread is smaller, 10mm O.D. and looks more like 1/8". I have yet to verify that though.

By the way, a friend of mine installed some explosion-proof industrial lighting fixtures in a room, with wires in standard 3/8" plumbing pipes. I don't know how he interfaced the fixtures with the piping, since the fixtures probably have PG11 thread. There were some doohickeys looking like adapters at each pipe/fixture - most likely custom made with a lathe.

Visit http://www.urbanremainschicago.com/products/lighting/factory-lighting.html to see some nice fixtures too :)

Thank you very much for pointing that out! You are absolutely correct I recorded it wrong and I will make the change right away as it is supposed to be a 1/8" IPS thread which will thread directly on 1/8" end of the reducer.

Thanks for catching that and awesome fixtures at the site that you provided.