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So, a lot of people have posted very similar 'ibles about using plumbing pipe and wood to create tables, benches, etc. Well, here is mine. I had a large piece of wood from a previous project just sitting in my shed, and wanting to make some space, I decided to make a narrow table to go along a large window in my living room. It really tied the room together.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

Wood - x1 - cut to length depending on your needs. For me, it was a 2x8 cut to 7 feet long.

Poly - x1 can - I used 3 coats of poly with a dark stain included

Steel Wool 000 - x1 -

Screws - x8 - ¼ x 1"

Rubber leg covers 1" diameter - I bought a box of 4

Paint Thinner

1" Steel Pipe Fittings - 2x Flange, 6x 2" Connector, 4x 45 degree turn, 2x 12" length, 2x 4" length, 4x 90 degree turn

Tools

Drills

Sander - I used a belt and rotary sander for this project

Chop Saw - You can also have wood cut at Home Depot or equivalent.

Paint Brush - natural bristled

Step 2: Sand the Wood

The piece of wood was in pretty bad shape, so I decided to use some 80 grit sand paper and my belt sander to make it ready for a smoother finish using a rotary sander.

After sanding both sides with the belt sander using the 80 grit, I switched to my orbital sander using 220 grit paper. This gave me a nice smooth finish that could accept the poly.

Step 3: Poly and Stain

In order to give the wood a nice finish I used a combination poly and stain product. There are a few out there and this was the first time I tried using this stuff. In total I laid down 3 coats with at least 6 hours in between coats (usually just let it sit overnight). The stain I chose was a dark Bombay finish, which looked nice in my opinion. I followed the directions on the poly can, which stated that you should rub the wood with steel wool in between coats, which I did. Additionally, the stain should be applied in thin coats. It is time consuming, but I was very happy with the end product, which was a nice shiny, smooth looking piece of wood that was considered scrap only a few days before.

Step 4: Assemble Pipe Fittings

I went to my local hardware store and just started playing with the pipes in the aisle to find a configuration that I liked. I settled on using 1" pipe. I just liked how sturdy it looked and felt, but you could easily use ¾" or even ½". Steel plumbing pipe can be a but pricey, so choose how complicated you want to make your legs carefully. I've labeled the image with each piece I purchased. Remember two multiply this by 2, since there are 2 legs to this thing! Tighten as best you can all the fittings before attaching to the wood.

Step 5: Attach Your Legs

I measured the length of the piece of wood to get an exact measurement, and divided that number by half. This gave me the middle of the board at 3' 5 ⅝". I then halved that number and measured from each end of the board to get the position for placing the legs (basically dividing the board into 4 sections). I placed a small mark on the spot and then removed the pipe flange piece from the end of the first leg and positioned it where I wanted to drill pilot holes for my screws. I tested the drill bit first on a scrap piece of wood that had a similar depth so I could mark the bit with tape and make sure I would not drill through my nice piece of wood. I then used the holes on my pipe flange as a guide for my pilot holes. After drilling the first hole I went ahead and screwed in my first screw. This would help ensure the flange did not move when I drilled the second hole. I drilled a second hole on the opposite side of the flange from the first hole and then place my screw. The flange was now secure and went ahead and drilled and screwed in the final to holes. Do this for both sides.

Next, you simply screw the legs back into the flange. Tighten as best you can so they are in the right orientation, but rigid enough not to move when bumped. This may take a little elbow grease.

Step 6: Add Rubber Feet

This is an optional step, but if you have a nice floor, which I don't actually, you may want to protect it from scrapes by adding these rubber leg tip covers. They are pretty simple to install, place into the 90 degree turn and hit with a hammer until you get them in to a depth you want.

Next, place your table next to your window and enjoy.

You're a real achiever now. and proud we are of you.
<p>I've always loved pipe framed furniture. Your table looks great! </p>

About This Instructable

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Bio: I'm an architect who loves to tinker with digital fabrication tools and electronics.
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