Step 2: Cut the Tubes

All in all, cutting the tubes was perhaps the most time consuming step--though not the most frustrating, that will come later.

Start cutting the main support tubes
I wanted to make a table 28" high. You can decide how tall you want your table to be.

To make a 28" high table, start by sawing 10 tubes to a length of 28." To make a table of length x, cut 10 tubes to length x. Remember! Measure twice, cut once. These are the only tubes where the length really matters. Also try to make both ends as flat as possible--using a miter box really helps--to reduce wiggle in your table. In a few moments you can (mostly) throw measures out the window, but for these ten tubes try to be delicate.

Tip: Because these tubes are made of cardboard they can tear-out easily, leaving a messy and uneven cut. In general, I sawed most of the way through the tube and then scored the underside (with a saw or exacto) before sawing the rest of the way.

If anyone with one of those new-fangled-type cutting tools tries to use one to make this table, lemme know how it works!

Cutting the short tubes
While the main support tubes keep the table standing, the short tubes fill in the spaces between and help to make a bigger table using less material. Although I will refer to these tubes as "short" the term is relative. In all I used 35 short tubes ranging in length from 4 inches to 27 inches. In general, I tried to keep the short tubes between 14" and 27." But really, just have fun with it, cut randomly. I also cut the short tubes at various angles--mostly 45 degrees, but also some at 22.5 degrees--to add to the chime or pipe organ look. Because the diameter of the tubes used in this project varied, you may want to cut a few more tubes than I ended up using. This may also be helpful in the event you find that one side of your table is weaker than the other.
Put different color LEDs in each of the tubes! would be AWESOME

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