Here's the first step to making a stellar pirate costume for the little lady in your life-- the pirate corset top!
I did the tutorial on the top that has the RED in the front and BLACK on the sides-- just so you don't get confused! :)
Step 1: Cutting Your Pieces
2-- black side panels, 9" x 11"
2-- red front and back panels, 6" x 11"
2-- red straps, 3" x 16"
(not shown) 1-- red ruffle, 4" by width of fabric (roughly 48")
Step 2: Prepping Your Loops
Cut 6 pieces of tiny rick-rack, about 3 inches each. Loop them and pin them at the marks you just made. You'll see that I like to leave a little tail, but make sure you take your seam allowance into account when judging the size of your loops.
Tack the loops in place, to make your life easier. :)
Step 3: Sewing the Bodice
Then sew your other red panel to the black panels so you have a loop.
Step 4: Prepping the Facing and Armholes
Fold the loop of your main piece in half. Do the same with your facing piece. Then cut out little arm grooves like this. It doesn't have to be exact, but they'll be about 2 inches wide and 1 inch tall. The TOP of your front panel piece should have the rick-rack that is only 1 inch away from the top.
Here's what your main piece and facing will look like when opened up. (ignore the straps-- you'll do those later!)
Step 5: Making the Straps
Press your straps flat then pin your trim down the middle. Sew the trim on. With this particular trim, I used black thread, and you couldn't see it at all when I had finished. You'll also notice that it frays. Don't worry about this. We cut the straps a little longer than we need, so we don't have to worry about it.
Step 6: Inventory of Pieces
Step 7: Topstitching the Bodice
Step 8: Attaching the Straps
Now-- straps. Pin them so that there's enough room for a 3/8-1/2" seam allowance next to the arm grooves. I actually just lined the edge of my trim up with the edge of my front panel to make my life easier.
Mark 7 inches down from the top of your strap. You'll line this mark up with the edge of the back.
Turn your top right side out and line up that 7 inch mark with the back. Pin (and baste, if you want to).
Place your facing over the straps, sandwiching them. Pin all around. See how you have excess straps on the back? We'll trim it off later. Sew together.
Turn right side out and press, again being careful around your trim. Top stitch around the whole thing.
Step 9: Adding the Ruffle to the Bottom
Gather it so it's the same width as your top.
Pin, right sides together, and sew.
Flip it and voila! We're so close to done!!
Step 10: Cinching in the Back
Starting at your topstitching line, on the back panel of your top, make marks 1.5 inches apart. Do this on both sides of the back panel.
Tack one side of the 1/8" elastic pieces to one side of the panels. I did it all in one fell swoop-- didn't even bother to trim the threads in between.
Once you have those all in place, place the other side of the elastic on the other mark. Do a couple stitches and backstitch. You'll see that your fabric will fold. Pull it flat, so the elastic stretches. Then sew a straight line down the elastic onto your flat fabric. Do this will all 7 pieces.
It will gather the fabric up a little like so. Don't worry if your stitches are a little wonky. It won't be noticable from the front.
Flip it and it will look like this, which-- for some reason-- looks really pirate-y to me. Why is that?!