Step 1: Here's a Video of the Build Process
Step 2: Materials
I started work on the Styrofoam wheel
Step 3: Cutting the Styrofoam
The arc shape pieces are then assembled into a circle and glued together. I used a water based wood glue which was not the best choice - it took several days to dry.
I used 'hot glue' sparingly to hold it together while the wood glue was drying. Too much hot glue can cause the Styrofoam to melt!
Apparently there are glues available at the art supply store that would have been more appropriate.
This was actually the most expensive part of the project - about $15.00
Step 4: Wheel Spokes and Hand Grips
The spindle must be cut in half, and the ends sanded smooth.
I needed to buy only 4 spindles to make the eight spokes and hand grips.
Step 5: Adding Detail to the Wheel - the Cove Cut and Holes Drilled
The Styrofoam wheel also needs holes for the spokes to go through. I used a hole saw for this too, and a hacksaw blade to make the holes square.
Step 6: Center Hub
Why cardboard? It's cheap, lightweight and I happened to have some lying around the shop.
The plywood top and bottom is glued together forming a sandwich. The rough edges can be filled in with wood putty or spackling compound.
(Note: I erroneously said 3/8" plywood in the video... it should be 3/16 inch)
Step 7: Filling in the Styrofoam Holes
The Styrofoam really soaks up the paint. Allow for time to dry between coats.
Step 8: Assemble
Do a dry fitting first, and trim the length if necessary.
Step 9: Painting With a Rustic Look
Instead of a brush, I used some electrical ribbon cable to give the paint a scratched effect.
Step 10: Mounting
I made a cap to cover up the Hex head of the bolt from a scrap of MDF.
I cut it with a four inch hole saw in my drill press. It is held on with hot glue.
And it's done - just in time for the party!