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Step 2Prepare pads
Locate six exposed pads on the circuit board that were underneath the removed foil - five in a rough line, plus one off by itself. These constitute a JTAG port, which the manufacturer uses for testing the board - and we can use for more nefarious purposes.
Get your soldering iron heated up, and apply a little bit of solder to four of these pads - the standalone one, and the center three of the row of five. DO NOT apply solder to the pads at the ends of the row, no connections are going to be made to them.
Unfortunately, the manufacturer did not anticipate that we were going to be soldering a microcontroller to these pads, and failed to provide pads with the necessary power supply. We are therefore going to have to use two short wires to bring power to the PIC from nearby traces. Clipped-off leads from a resistor (or other electronic component) work well for this, since they're designed for optimum solderability, but any fine-gauge wire should work. Locate the two spots indicated in the picture, and scrape off the soldermask in those areas - a small flat-tip screwdriver should work. Solder the wires flat to the board - they're probably too large to fit through the holes, and you don't know what's on the other side of the board at those points anyway. You want the wires to be headed more or less towards the bottom of the picture.
Get your soldering iron heated up, and apply a little bit of solder to four of these pads - the standalone one, and the center three of the row of five. DO NOT apply solder to the pads at the ends of the row, no connections are going to be made to them.
Unfortunately, the manufacturer did not anticipate that we were going to be soldering a microcontroller to these pads, and failed to provide pads with the necessary power supply. We are therefore going to have to use two short wires to bring power to the PIC from nearby traces. Clipped-off leads from a resistor (or other electronic component) work well for this, since they're designed for optimum solderability, but any fine-gauge wire should work. Locate the two spots indicated in the picture, and scrape off the soldermask in those areas - a small flat-tip screwdriver should work. Solder the wires flat to the board - they're probably too large to fit through the holes, and you don't know what's on the other side of the board at those points anyway. You want the wires to be headed more or less towards the bottom of the picture.
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