If you ever mix plaster in smallish batches, and you do it more than once or twice, then you need a mixer. Something to take the elbow greese out of it. Nothing fancy, nothing super long, and certainly not expensive.
In this Instructable we will build a small mixer just perfect for those small jobs. This is the mixer I used in my project titled Laying Your Own Eggs, so to speak.
In this Instructable we will build a small mixer just perfect for those small jobs. This is the mixer I used in my project titled Laying Your Own Eggs, so to speak.
Materials
- 3/8" threaded steel rod - 6 inches
- 1" x 4" x 1/8" flat aluminum
- Two (2) 3/8" nuts
Note: The metal needed can be acquired at most hardware stores and certainly any place that specializes in metal. You will likely have to buy at least three-feet of both rod and flat, however both are often reasonably priced and the unused lengths can be kept for future projects. I always keep stock threaded rod and 1" aluminum flat in my shop. Both very useful.
Tools
- Cut-off saw - or hacksaw
- Electric drill - handheld, drillpress, whatever
- 1/8" and 3/8" drillbit
- Metal centre punch - or a nail
- Hammer
- Metal file
- Vice
- Adjustable wrench
- Marker
- Compound square - ruler or tape measure are fine too
Safety
- Eye protection
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Signing UpStep 1: Making the mixing blade
First, let's get our aluminum flat measured for cutting and bending.
I am using a compound square here to give a clean square line. The reason I am marking so close to the end in the photo is that the end was rough and I wanted to clean it up.
The second photo shows all lines marked. The length between end cut lines is 4 inches. The diagonal bend lines are simply 45 degree angles from the cut line. Make your diagonals the same as shown in the photo to ensure proper mixing rotation in he finished tool. The squiggles on either end are simply the areas to be discarded after cutting.
Now would be a good time to measure the centre of your piece. I don't show it marked here because I forgot to do it until it came time for drilling.
In photo 3 you will see the flat setup in a mini cut-off saw. These saws create quick clean cuts in metal, but a hacksaw will work just fine. Use whatever you have handy.
In photo 4 I am using a small deburring tool to remove burrs left from cutting. Very handy tool when working with metal and should only cost a few dollars. Simply filing the ends works well too as shown in photo 5.
Your threaded rod can be cut at this stage also. Just measure 6 inches from the end and mark with a marker. Cut just as you did the aluminum flat, and clean the end with a file. That's it for the rod.
Now, let's move on to the next step.
I am using a compound square here to give a clean square line. The reason I am marking so close to the end in the photo is that the end was rough and I wanted to clean it up.
The second photo shows all lines marked. The length between end cut lines is 4 inches. The diagonal bend lines are simply 45 degree angles from the cut line. Make your diagonals the same as shown in the photo to ensure proper mixing rotation in he finished tool. The squiggles on either end are simply the areas to be discarded after cutting.
Now would be a good time to measure the centre of your piece. I don't show it marked here because I forgot to do it until it came time for drilling.
In photo 3 you will see the flat setup in a mini cut-off saw. These saws create quick clean cuts in metal, but a hacksaw will work just fine. Use whatever you have handy.
In photo 4 I am using a small deburring tool to remove burrs left from cutting. Very handy tool when working with metal and should only cost a few dollars. Simply filing the ends works well too as shown in photo 5.
Your threaded rod can be cut at this stage also. Just measure 6 inches from the end and mark with a marker. Cut just as you did the aluminum flat, and clean the end with a file. That's it for the rod.
Now, let's move on to the next step.
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Though I do have to say, that looks quite like the type of blade you see in those little coffee grinders and also in blenders... In other words, how sharp is it?
I also though generally that most mixers were paddle or screw shaped in design... maybe this is just for the paint mixers I've seen... Maybe plaster you need something with an edge to get rid of the clumps....
The piece that I call the blade is actually thick enough that the edges are not sharp at all. Blunt actually. The only sharpish section is the tip of either end, but those I filed down somewhat. Sharp or not I don't recommend this to be used for styling hair or other alternate applications.
Regarding the design compared to paint mixers, or even some commercial plaster mixers, you are correct. The reason for this design is two-fold. One, it's quick, cheap, and easy to build. Two, it is designed specifically for mixing small batches and having a low profile design allows it to stay beneath the surface while mixing. It creates good churn while introducing very little air into the mix. The plaster comes out smooth and well suspended in the water.