Step 1: Go get stuff
A yard of white felt
A square foot of neoprene
A white feather boa (or two)
Six square inches of conductive fabric
1/4" Female to 1/4" Female audio cable
Acrylic and an awesome Epilog laser cutter (or a standard PCB)
(3X) 100K resistors
9V regulated power source with M-type adapter
M-Type audio plug
An eyelet tool
(x2) One inch thick 3" foam squares
White gaffers tape
Misc hardware (nuts and bolts, etc)
Misc hand tools (scissors, pliers, etc)
Step 2: Fabric Switch Prep
Then cut out two relatively thin, but equal sized strips of conductive fabric that are roughly 5" x 1.5".
Step 3: Glue conductive fabric
Fold this extra bit of fabric onto the back of the neoprene and glue it down on the other side.
Repeat and make another
Tip: It helps when gluing if you weight it down for a few minutes with something heavy like "The Art of Electronics" textbook.
Step 4: Cut center
The holes should be small enough that the two fabric sheets won't touch, but large enough that when someone steps on it, they can touch. I found that holes one inch by a quarter inch lined up in a row work well.
Step 5: Insert eyelets
Step 6: Fasten wires
Fasten these wires to each of the eyelets in such a way that the but (and washer) are facing in (the side with the larger conductive surface) and the bolt is inserted through the outside (the side with the small conductive tab).
Twist it on very tightly.
Step 7: Finish it
Next pin them together in such a way that the pins do not pass through any of the conductive fabric.
Sew along one of the longer edges and pin as you go. When you get to the end, tie off the thread and glue down any loose ends. Repeat along the other long edge.
Glue down the short edges (so long as the conductive parts won't touch).
Trim any excess no conductive fabric and your fabric switch should be ready to roll.
Step 8: Prep your cables
Also cut an extra two feet of wire for attaching the M-type power jack.
When you are done, strip back some of the jacketing to expose the ground wire and the audio wire. Carefully strip off any jacketing cover things (being careful not to cross them) and set them aside for soldering.
Step 9: Cut a circuit bracket
I did one raster pass with the following settings:
And then I did one vector pass with these settings:
If you don't have a laser cutter, you can use a PCB.
Step 10: Build your circuit
Build your circuit using the schematic and pictures below as a guide.
When you are done, test to make certain it works.
Don't forget to add your M-type power jack onto the extra two feet of wire and to attach that to the circuit.
Step 11: Epoxy!
Coat both side of your circuit in a generous coating of epoxy. Make sure that the cables are untangled and laying flat on the board while you do this.
This will help protect it when you stomp on it and also hold the connections in place and keep the board from shorting. Don't hesitate to add more than one coat. It should feel smooth all around after this.
Step 12: Foam
Step 13: Cut your pattern
If you don't happen to have an awesome Epilog laser cutter to cut yours out with, you can print it out and use scissors.
Step 14: Sew a ball
Place another peel shaped piece of fabric inside of the fold you just made and line up the edge of that new piece with either of the other edges. Sew again.
Repeat this until you have only two edges left to sew together. Sew these together almost entirely, but leave the ball 3" open.
Using this hole, flip the ball inside out.
Step 15: Wire it
Step 16: Stuff it
Carefully position to switch to lay flat along what you see as the top of the ball (probably side opposite of where all the wires are).
Stuff it until its full, but not too firm.
Step 17: Close it up
Also sew the holes the wires are coming out of shut.
I add extra stitching at the two points on the ball where all the peels converge. This isn't pretty, but it makes the ball stronger.
Step 18: Fuzzy Wuzzy Was He?
For a more realistic effect, leave it under a dresser for a few weeks. If unlike me, you clean your home regularly, bring it over here. I have plenty of dust bunnies to go around. I'm too busy making things to clean.
Be careful not to sew through the fabric switch. You can easily cover that spot by placing fuzz over it and sewing around it.
Step 19: Detailing
I laser cut stencils onto painters tape and then painted labels onto the plugs.
You could probably get away with hand cutting stencils or simply painting labels on by hand.