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Pocket Sized Camp Stove (The Improved "Penny Stove")

intro
 

introPocket Sized Camp Stove (The Improved "Penny Stove")

NOTE: A lot of work has gone into this instructable. If you appreciate it, please rate it!

This instructable actually came about through necessity. I love camping, and often go hiking in the woods. How often have you spent a day fishing, and wished you could throw some fresh fish into a pan right there on the dock?

For me, this always meant carrying a bulky, expensive kerosene or propane stove which themselves can be something of a pain to get warm enough to use.

There are numerous instructables here on how to make a "Penny Stove." However, there are a series of problems with the Penny Stove concept that need to be addressed. For instance:

1.) You cannot put a large pot on a penny stove without crushing it.
2.) Penny Stoves get very hot, so must be placed on something that will not burn to be used.
3.) Putting a Penny Stove in your pocket or backpack for a hike, it will get crushed fairly quickly.
4.) Penny Stoves are either difficult to light, or do not conserve fuel well.
5.) Penny Stoves are easily blown out in the wind.

As for the commercial "camp" stoves, the *only* ones I've found are either glorified penny stoves (with all the same problems) or require you to carry bulky, heavy, expensive canisters of propane or butane. (Or a mix of the two.) I never did get the point of spending $50 for a "3 oz stove" only to have to carry a 13 oz canister to use it for 1 hour.

All of these issues have been addressed with the new and improved "Penny Stove" or as I like to call it, the "Pocket Sized Camp Stove." I do honestly prefer this over any commercial stove I've yet seen (and I've seen a lot). Better still, it was free. Even a cheap commercial camp stove starts at $30 and goes up quickly from there. I've seen less useful stoves selling for over $100. Considering that commercial stove fuel is also more than twice as expensive as denatured alcohol (calculated by burn time) and harder to come by, there's just simply no reason for me to purchase anything commercial.

While this isn't the size of an Altoids tin, and won't fit in your hip pocket, it will easily carry in a cargo pocket, or in the pocket of your backpack. I keep it in one of the smaller pockets of my ruck sack whenever I go hiking.

For $1.25, you can get a bottle of HEET, and numerous other fuels are even cheaper. (Though I'll tell you from experience, you'll get odd looks buying half a dozen bottles in the middle of the summer. I think the guy thought I was cooking meth.)

Compare this to the Esbit Stove that takes solid state tablets that burn (realistically) for approximately 10 minutes at $0.50 a piece. That's $3/hr, and it's not easy to come by.

While I haven't tested it, I'm pretty sure a $1.25 bottle of HEET (that can be picked up nearly anywhere, including gas stations) lasts me more than an hour.

My preferred fuel is Denatured Alcohol. (See the "Fuel" step.)

Finally, the problem I've had with solid state fuels is the time it takes them to heat up, the amount of heat they put out, and the amount of time it takes to put them away. This stove is ready to go in 1 minute, can be extinguished by blowing it out, or putting the measuring cup over it, and cools off in less than 3 minutes.

For a quick stop to fry up some lunch, this is my stove of choice.

If anyone has suggestions for improvements, I'm all ears.
Pocket Sized Camp Stove (The Improved "Penny Stove")
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step 1WARNING!!!

I want to make it clear that Penny Stoves CAN detonate. This is not a minor warning, but a very serious one. Unless you take certain precautions, you *can* actually cause…


step 2Required Materials

What you will need for this is the following:Two (2) aluminum soda cans to make a very standard "Penny Stove"Two (2) wire hangers (enamel finished, not the plastic covered …


step 3Optional Materials

JB Stik Weld is also an epoxy, but in a thicker, putty format. I would strongly recommend using this as well, although for the patient individual, it *is* possible to use …


step 4Required Tools

The tools shown in the image are pretty much needed for this instructable. I know not everyone owns a Dremel, but I can't stress enough just how much any hobbiest needs on…


step 5Optional Tools

While you can get away with using your wire snips and Dremel to prep the Penny Stove's top, I find it's much easier to use some heavy duty scissors and a hole punch. Note …


step 6Fuel

There are a number of fuels that can be used in these stoves, but they are specifically designed to use alcohol based fuels. The most common fuels seen are:"Heet" Gas-Line …


step 7Making the Penny Stove

Penny Stoves have been covered in length on this site, but I will go through the simple steps used to make the one I use for my own stove. Many cans were sacrificed to det…


step 8Making the Penny Stove (Cutting the Pieces)

1.) Using the razor blade rig (Image 1), score both cans approximately 1.5" from the bottom. Note that the score line does not have to be particularly deep, as it's just a…


step 9Making the Penny Stove (Prepping the Parts)

1.) Scoring the stove will cause the can to slightly bend "inward" where it was cut. While this is desirable for the top of the stove, you'll want to "stretch out" the ope…


step 10Making the Penny Stove (Final Steps)

The assembly of the stove is by far the most delicate step in the instructable. Be very careful here.1.) Slide the top into the bottom piece. (Image 1)2.) Very, very caref…


step 11Making the Measuring Cup

The measuring cup is made out of the "small" tin can and is approximately the same size as the penny stove itself. 1.) There's no need to be too exacting here. Just set t…


step 12Make the Rack Pins

The rack pins are fairly simple. Take a straight piece of hanger wire and bend a hook into it as shown. The length of the pin should be approximately 1/2" (~13 mm) taller…


step 13Making the Wind Guard

The Wind Guard serves two purposes. It will not only protect the stove from light winds when outdoors, but it will also help channel the heat upwards. This means more eff…


step 14Creating the Base/Lid

The Base will also double as the lid for the stove.The Base will allow you to use the stove on surfaces that would otherwise burn. It only ever gets lukewarm to the touch,…


step 15Making the Pot Rack

The Pot Rack will enable you to put much larger pots and pans on your stove, making it functional for much more than just heating coffee. Between this, a mess kit, and som…


step 16Assembly (Packed)

When you're ready to put your stove in your pack, this is how it's assembled:1.) Put your rack pins into the lid (Image 1)2.) Put your measuring cup into the lid, and put i…


step 17Usage (Video)

1.) Remove rack from around stove.2.) Remove lid/base, and empty contents (rack pins).3.) Place lid/base upright on stable surface.4.) Remove fuel cup and set aside.5.) Rem…


step 18Specs

After much experimentation, it was determined that for this particular design, the most efficient stove is one with 8 evenly spaced "thumbtack" sized holes. Even spacing i…


170 comments
1-50 of 170
Aug 4, 2009. 8:57 AMMhbaben says:
This is great. I'm pretty new to instructables, and this is the first penny stove I've seen so I'm glad I started with the best. I'll make one this weekend.
Oct 31, 2009. 7:28 AMLCsDad says:
I might just DuraCoat mine in a sweet olive drab or go the opposite direction with a 'hazard' orange...
Never thought of making it a showpiece!! Thanks!

Oct 31, 2009. 12:32 AM.happy.hippie. says:
i live in st. louis MO and i am planning on biking from stl to kansas city (and i guess back) and trying to spend as little money during the trip. so camping and using this stove would be amazing.  i'm building one this weekend
Oct 21, 2009. 12:38 PMTarzanJr says:
Hey i have a question can the top of the can be on the outside and have the little hole things  be on the bottom of the can?
 

Oct 20, 2009. 3:52 PMTarzanJr says:
at first i thought that the wind gaurd was much taller in the video then the picture of it sideways... when you are showing the holes you might want to show a comparison of the small medium and large cans after they have been cut so that they know what the end results look like.

Oct 6, 2009. 6:16 AMspark master says:
Great instructable, a thought , these are pressurised so getting fuel in MUST be under pressure as well. a valve and tube with a squeese bottle and valve at the at end would theoretically work.

An outer wall with space would let you add water which would cool it and let it burn at a slower rate (simmer)The tapped rivets you want used to be sold everywhere now hard to get (aircraft parts today), that is due to new window/door techniques, which no longer use them. you could JB weld a nut inside the stove, just wax/oil the bolt and get a tiny amount inside the thread of the nut, then put inside the thing before assemble (so if you mess up you haven't done all the work yet), then after its dry and ready complete assembly. Use brass nut bolt for ease of use later(no oxidation)
Oct 21, 2009. 1:26 PMTarzanJr says:
How old do you have to be to buy denatured alchol cause if their is an age limit then i need to know lol
 

Oct 22, 2009. 8:08 AMZachattack1 says:
I've been waiting 4 the JB weld to harden for a couple of days. I just noticed that I forgot to put the hardener on!  ;-P Oh well, no harm done. I fixed it and it should be done by tomorrow morning! :-)
Sep 17, 2009. 7:16 AMMetalcaster14 says:
any can opener will work except the p38s an p50s you just turn the opener 1 quarter turn.
Oct 21, 2009. 1:12 PMTarzanJr says:
I really suggest just getting the new one that cut at the VERY TOP SIDE of the can and it i comes out easily i tried the hand ones and stuff and the it is pointless to try them cause then you have a possibility cutting your hand when placing stove in the wind gaurd and stuff.
 

Oct 9, 2009. 9:30 AMjunits15 says:

What purpose do the holes around the inside wall of burner serve? 


Oct 15, 2009. 3:18 PMjunits15 says:
the ones on the area of the can that is pushed into the other
Oct 9, 2009. 9:35 AMjunits15 says:
Oh, and if you are still having trouble making evenly spaced holes try this template form www.zenstoves.net
(template for 12 oz. cans only)
http://zenstoves.net/Templates/Template12oz.GIF
Aug 21, 2009. 9:13 PMmissyvanwinkle says:
Wow -- you did an amazing job. I'm impressed and inspired. (Nice pup, too.)
Sep 25, 2009. 7:56 PMMig Welder says:
ditto
Jul 20, 2009. 11:09 PMBriguy9 says:
Now it's not 5-hour energy, but 30 minute energy.
Sep 25, 2009. 10:11 AMMig Welder says:
haha
Jul 27, 2009. 10:26 AMwascogrrl says:
Just wondering why a wet/dry Erase? Wouldn't a sharpie work just as well?
Jul 28, 2009. 12:20 PMwascogrrl says:
LOL Yeah, I'm probably like you so now I TOTALLY understand the need for a wet/dry Erase pen!
Sep 25, 2009. 7:52 AMemerson.john says:
No need for a wet or dry erase marker. The same alcohol that you will use for fuel removes Sharpie ink like magic from a non-porous surface.
Sep 25, 2009. 10:11 AMMig Welder says:
BUT its a bit more easier to just wipe it with your finger than cleaning it with alcohol.
Sep 17, 2009. 11:05 AMkcls says:
We just made one of these. We haven't actually epoxied everything together yet but we were so exited we lit it anyway. We lit it once during the day, but we couldn't see the flames so we decided to light it once it got dark out. The first time it lit fine with no problems. When we lit it again at night, I apparently put in a little to much primer and the whole thing exploded. Half the picnic table was on fire, but it was just the alcohol so that burned off quickly and no one and nothing was hurt, including the stove! we put it back together and lit it again (this time on a non flammable surface) and had a marsh-mallow roast over it. The five hour energy bottle worked like a charm, and after exactly half an hour, we were done. Thanks for this awesome Instructable!

Sep 20, 2009. 10:45 PMNatureBoom21 says:
LMFAO ROFL LMFAO ROFL!!!
Sep 20, 2009. 10:45 PMNatureBoom21 says:
LOL
Sep 17, 2009. 12:16 PMkcls says:
It was a little bit of both. The can flew across to the other side of the picnic table. it wasn't a design flaw, it was more because of the fact that I poured half of the alcohol into the wind guard. It was quite the explosion though, and it wasn't actually our picnic table. It belongs to the marina that we are keeping our boat at. The thing kind of burst into flame, spewing lit alcohol everywhere. The next time we lit it, we used almost no primer and it worked fine, except for one problem, where alot of flame was coming out of the hole that the penny was over. This could have been caused by one of two things: 1.by the fact that when we lit the stove earlier after we put it out we were putting our fingerprints into the penny while it was soft, possibly bending the penny, and 2. a defect in the can from it exploding. I don't think it was vent flame either because it did that the whole time
Sep 19, 2009. 4:34 PMOrtzinator says:
You should be very careful how you use the clamps on the square, you don't want to bend it.
Sep 18, 2009. 2:51 AMr-shippy says:
Great vid have been playing with the penny stove myself and must agree with the idea of small jets and more of them and correct spacing and direction .
I have a full wind guard that covers halve the pot and find it works like a chimney.
keep up the good work people!!!
Sep 17, 2009. 10:09 AMkennan says:
You might consider blowing one up on video as an entertaining cautionary tale.
Sep 16, 2009. 4:34 PMV-Man737 says:
The amount of detail you've put into this is admirable. 5 stars and favorited.
Sep 15, 2009. 7:02 AMTetrafish says:
To evenly space the holes you could wrap a strip of paper around it, mark it's (circumference) length, then evenly divide them... usually by folding in half, then in quarters, etc. for an even number of holes. Then re-wrap the paper around the can and hold it steady to mark the places to puncture.
Sep 10, 2009. 8:33 PMwinster244 says:
can you use lighter fluid?
Aug 11, 2009. 7:01 PMD.L.H. says:
This can come in handy if my stove every gets broken.
Aug 11, 2009. 3:21 PMswimmer95 says:
so you put the alcohol into the can

Aug 10, 2009. 1:25 AMpieman12 says:
also wats the point of the penny
Aug 10, 2009. 3:12 PMlilpepsikraker says:
provides a block for the fuel hole, so its not a jet. also helps when the stove has too much pressure; the penny will lift and release the alcohol vapours, preventing an explosion.
Aug 10, 2009. 5:33 PMpieman12 says:
thanks
Aug 10, 2009. 1:24 AMpieman12 says:
very good unfortunetly i have a very short atention spa... ooh, a survival kit
Aug 9, 2009. 10:47 PMtibbaryllis says:
I do not have any pictures with me but I've had luck with the refueling. In my designs you insert a needle in the bottom of the stove (such as a basketball needle) this needle fits through a hole in the bottom of the wind guard. Its connected to a long* piece of small tubing. **** For starters I recommend in the 5 foot range so you arnt in detonation range if you do it wrong. The end of this tube has a large syringe (like a basting/injection syringe) Fill the syringe with your alcohol and use that to initially fuel the stove (this is important, you dont want air trapped in the tube) then refill the syringe and push a little extra fuel in so as to clear any bubbles in the line. Now step away from the syringe and prime and light your stove. It should be burning like normal. When you want to add more fuel, done a leather glove (for safety) and SLOWLY SLOWLY SLOWLY SLOWLY inject more fuel from a safe distance. As long as you dont back off pressure from the injection system there is no air to cause the system to blow up, and the tube is not hooked to the syringe or the needle permanently so any sort of explosive reaction is likely to push the tube off. The only piece that needs to be permanently affixed is the needle into the stove bottom as so it cannot easily fall out and so that it does not create an extra inflow of air.

Extreme caution needs to be observed until you completely understand the refueling process as everything that can go wrong can go wrong. I've even had one instance where fire did manage to travel back up the tube (was a short tube) but the syringe had come loose so it effectively sprayed fire... user beware.. With a large enough injection needle (some turkey ones are pretty large) you can effectively refuel the can enough to keep it running for days... now you can mini slow cook roasts or make slow cooked soups in the woods... You can also use the technique you used to make your pot stand to make a rotisserie. Make them about.. 3x taller and form loops for a pin to go through - using this method I've made rotisserie dove breast and a mini morel kabob...

Enjoy

Aug 9, 2009. 7:40 AMstickbugg says:
Finished my stove yesterday, and tried out a few times already. Awesome awesome awesome instructable. This thing is very conveniently, works smoothly, etc. Nothing in the guide itself was too confusing either.

I'm tempted to make another one of these that's a bit smaller -- for example, starting with a Redbull can stove...
Aug 2, 2009. 7:19 PMstickbugg says:
My pins were unable to sit on the bottom of the windguard as close to the edge instructed, so I've arched their backs a bit to see if that works out.
Aug 2, 2009. 5:59 PMaxial says:
sweet
1-50 of 170

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