Step 13: Making the Wind Guard
The most important part here is how the lid is removed from your large can. A standard can opener cuts the INSIDE of the can. More modern can openers now actually cut the OUTSIDE of the can. You absolutely will have to use one of these newer can openers and keep the lid or this will not work. You will need this lid later. I recommend one of the "One Touch" can openers for the most solid, stable lid.
The wind guard is quite simple:
1.) Set the Stove next to your Large can.
2.) Measure 1/2" to 3/4" above the stove and draw a line around the "down" part of the ribbing. You will need to do this for the lid to fit. (Image 1)
3.) Cut the top of the large can off with the Dremel.
Now is when you would create your rack pins from the previous step!
4.) Drill 16 evenly spaced 1/8" (approx 3.2 mm) holes on the "bottom" of the Wind Guard. These should be a few millimeters above the bottom so alcohol doesn't leak out during priming.
5.) Drill 2 rows of 8 evenly spaced 1/4" (~5 mm) holes (note emphasis) staggered on the "top" of the Wind Guard. (Image 2) Note: I used the hole punch for these holes. As it utterly destroyed the hole punch, I would not recommend this.
You will need to refer to Image 3 for the following steps. This looks much more complex than it is. Make sure you know what you're doing before trying, as the JB Stik has a fairly quick setting (hardening) time. If you mess up, you can use water to remove the putty, dry thoroughly, sand a bit, and try again.
6.) Pick two pairs of the "lower" holes that are across from each other. (blue circles) Now, draw a wet/dry erase line (red lines) on the bottom of the can from below one circle to its opposing circle. Now, approximately 1/2" (13 mm) towards the inside, drill four 1/8" (3.2 mm) holes that intersect this line (green circles). These will be the support holes for the pegs that will hold the rack.
7.) Apply a very small (smaller than pea sized) ball of the JB Stik to each of these holes on the "bottom" of the Wind Guard (Image 4) and flatten it out so it's close to flush with the bottom of the can. You can wet your fingers a little bit to keep the weld from sticking to them, but make sure not to get water on the putty where it needs to stick to the Wind Guard. Notice that I also sanded a bit around the hole just to rough up the surface to get a better stick. You should do this with anything you use the putty on.
8.) Going back to the inside, you will see that some of the weld has pushed through. Flatten this out as well, then slide a rack pin through the corresponding large hole, and make a small indentation in the putty. You do not want the rack pin to go all the way through the putty. A small indentation is all that is necessary. The indentation will need to be deep enough that the rack pins will not "slip" when an item is placed on the stove, but not so deep as to break through the bottom of the putty. I recommend holding a finger on the putty below so you can feel the pin getting close to breaking through. This should be sufficient. (If you do not feel that the hole is able to go deep enough without breaking through, you can add a very small amount of putty to the holes on the inside of the Wind Guard. Be careful not to use too much putty, though, as it is only able to handle temperatures up to 500 F (260 C) and will need the rest of the can to act as a heat-sink for it.)
The final indentations should look like those in Image 5.
User Tip: jacksteal4 - The trick was to wet the pegs when you put them in so it didn't stick to the epoxy.
Those who have been following this instructable will notice that this is a significant improvement over the original design. Originally, the JB Stik "nubs" stuck out on the sides of the wind guard. Not only did they block priming holes, but they had a tendency to get hooked on items while in the backpack and get broken off. This new design eliminates that problem, and makes the final stove look more "sleek."