Step 13: Making the Wind Guard

Picture of Making the Wind Guard
The Wind Guard serves two purposes. It will not only protect the stove from light winds when outdoors, but it will also help channel the heat upwards. This means more efficiency, which means less fuel consumed.

The most important part here is how the lid is removed from your large can. A standard can opener cuts the INSIDE of the can. More modern can openers now actually cut the OUTSIDE of the can. You absolutely will have to use one of these newer can openers and keep the lid or this will not work. You will need this lid later. I recommend one of the "One Touch" can openers for the most solid, stable lid.

The wind guard is quite simple:

1.) Set the Stove next to your Large can.

2.) Measure 1/2" to 3/4" above the stove and draw a line around the "down" part of the ribbing. You will need to do this for the lid to fit. (Image 1)

3.) Cut the top of the large can off with the Dremel.

Now is when you would create your rack pins from the previous step!

4.) Drill 16 evenly spaced 1/8" (approx 3.2 mm) holes on the "bottom" of the Wind Guard. These should be a few millimeters above the bottom so alcohol doesn't leak out during priming.

5.) Drill 2 rows of 8 evenly spaced 1/4" (~5 mm) holes (note emphasis) staggered on the "top" of the Wind Guard. (Image 2) Note: I used the hole punch for these holes. As it utterly destroyed the hole punch, I would not recommend this.

You will need to refer to Image 3 for the following steps. This looks much more complex than it is. Make sure you know what you're doing before trying, as the JB Stik has a fairly quick setting (hardening) time. If you mess up, you can use water to remove the putty, dry thoroughly, sand a bit, and try again.

6.) Pick two pairs of the "lower" holes that are across from each other. (blue circles) Now, draw a wet/dry erase line (red lines) on the bottom of the can from below one circle to its opposing circle. Now, approximately 1/2" (13 mm) towards the inside, drill four 1/8" (3.2 mm) holes that intersect this line (green circles). These will be the support holes for the pegs that will hold the rack.

7.) Apply a very small (smaller than pea sized) ball of the JB Stik to each of these holes on the "bottom" of the Wind Guard (Image 4) and flatten it out so it's close to flush with the bottom of the can. You can wet your fingers a little bit to keep the weld from sticking to them, but make sure not to get water on the putty where it needs to stick to the Wind Guard. Notice that I also sanded a bit around the hole just to rough up the surface to get a better stick. You should do this with anything you use the putty on.

8.) Going back to the inside, you will see that some of the weld has pushed through. Flatten this out as well, then slide a rack pin through the corresponding large hole, and make a small indentation in the putty. You do not want the rack pin to go all the way through the putty. A small indentation is all that is necessary. The indentation will need to be deep enough that the rack pins will not "slip" when an item is placed on the stove, but not so deep as to break through the bottom of the putty. I recommend holding a finger on the putty below so you can feel the pin getting close to breaking through. This should be sufficient. (If you do not feel that the hole is able to go deep enough without breaking through, you can add a very small amount of putty to the holes on the inside of the Wind Guard. Be careful not to use too much putty, though, as it is only able to handle temperatures up to 500 F (260 C) and will need the rest of the can to act as a heat-sink for it.)

The final indentations should look like those in Image 5.
User Tip: jacksteal4 - The trick was to wet the pegs when you put them in so it didn't stick to the epoxy.

Those who have been following this instructable will notice that this is a significant improvement over the original design. Originally, the JB Stik "nubs" stuck out on the sides of the wind guard. Not only did they block priming holes, but they had a tendency to get hooked on items while in the backpack and get broken off. This new design eliminates that problem, and makes the final stove look more "sleek."
Darwinfish4 years ago
Very nicely done! I need to try this.

One thing though, with this step. Instead of drilling full holes, why not just make little divots in the bottom of the can, with a nail set or something?
JRick34 years ago
in your opinion, what is the easiest way to bend the hanger into the desirable shape? I tried needle nose pliers and they bent it with some effort but they did not turn out very good.
lounice984 years ago
:( production comes to a hault for some reason i thought i had my dremel in the house but its at the shop will continue friday and finish posting pics of the finish product, so far this instructable is very easy to folllow i appreciate the time you took to document the steps! Im very antsy to finish but I believe in quality so I dont want to cut any corners.
I tend to agree with ERCCRE123. Get the rack and support pins all ready to go, and then attach the rack set to see where the pins will touch the bottom of the wind guard.

However, I have an alternate suggestion for securing the pins. After you note where the end of the pins touch, mark each spot with your pen, and remove the rack. Then, JB Weld or Stik a small nut (for use with bolts) to each point on the floor of the wind guard. When set, the rack can be reassembled and attached with the ends of the pins being easily inserted into the holes of the nuts.

As some of the JB product will probably ooze up into the hole, it might again be a good idea to wet or grease the ends of the pins and insert them into the nuts before the JB sets to make even more accurate placement of the pins. But the height, firmness and inner thread ridges of the nuts should make assembly faster and sturdier. Plus, you don't have to puncture the floor of the wind guard at all, thus preventing any possible leakage.
Javin007 (author)  WonderWidget4 years ago
I like this! I'll have to try that on my next build.
I'll have to try it on my FIRST build! Ha!! I'm going on a solo camping trip in May and got fascinated by your YouTube video, which led me here, even to joining and commenting. Loved some of the other remarks, too - I'll have to get a can of that Walmart Chunk Chicken now, I guess! I have all the other cans already to go, tho'.

I did also consider some other things, one that making the rack first might be best because the shape it has will dictate the length of the support pins. And the height of the wind guard will determine the rack's shape since it is also the clamp that holds the packed up unit all together. Then, I thought it may be a good idea to put 4 slight dents in the base lid and the wind guard bottom on the edges where the rack is centered when used as the closure clamp; in fact, doing that even before the rack is formed. So, wrapping the rack wire around the closed unit, lining it up with the dents, it would be held in place by those dents when latched and would not accidentally slip off.

Lastly, I wondered about a different, shorter sized shape for the pins, in which the straight end might instead be bent back up and then OVER the top of the wind guard's upper rim with a small, tight-gripping loop at the top. The pin would need to be threaded through the hole, then pushed all the way inside, the loop caught on the rim and the pin pulled back out to set it in place. I've used this cantilevered approach on other things, (I'm a real clothes hanger aficionado!) But, I'm not convinced it would be stronger (read 'safer') than your original design, AND I may just be overthinking it a bit much!! Sigh, it's a curse! ;-)

I do know I've got to try building one of these!! Thanks for considering my suggestions, and for a really great idea! Yours is by far the best version I've seen on the Net so far!
seabear704 years ago
For those interested, I made the windguard our of a 12.5 oz can of Great Value Chunk Chicken Breasts from walmart, and Bayer Contour test strip containers are just about the perfect size for a fuel measuring cup.

I wanna thank and salute the author, I made a number of mods to his basic design, but I think he'd recognize his work if he saw my stove.
ERCCRE1235 years ago
 I think you should drill the holes after you make the rack itself. I don't think the 1/2" toward the inside will be the same for every rack and rack pin set. You might have to finish building the whole stove set, make the rack, and put the rack pins the same way and mark where to drill the holes. Finally, apply the JB stik and put the rack on the rack pins to make sure the pins and holes fit perfectly.
pla76 years ago
My pins were unable to sit on the bottom of the windguard as close to the edge instructed, so I've arched their backs a bit to see if that works out.