Step 17: Usage (Video)

1.) Remove rack from around stove.
2.) Remove lid/base, and empty contents (rack pins).
3.) Place lid/base upright on stable surface.
4.) Remove fuel cup and set aside.
5.) Remove stove/penny.
6.) If you created the optional hook tool, remove this.
7.) Place wind guard on top of lid/base.
8.) Insert rack pins through appropriate holes, and set them in their "nubs."
9.) Place stove (sans penny) into center of wind guard.
10.) Slowly add fuel to stove (either with fuel cup, or squirt bottle) by dumping fuel into the top of it and letting it drain.
11.) Dump small amount (will differ for each stove, experiment) of fuel into wind guard as primer.
12.) Add penny to stove, covering fuel hole.
13.) Place rack into rack pins.
14.) Light with flint striker over stove, or bring lighter near a side hole.
15.) Stove will take approximately 30-45 seconds to heat up.
16.) Use only stable flat-bottomed pan/bowl/cup to cook.

Note that if desired, the penny stove itself can be turned upside down and used to burn solid state fuels such as esbit fuel tabs.

Notes when using:
  • The pictures of the lit stove were taken in a dim room. Keep in mind that outdoors, or in bright light, you will often not be able to see the flame at all. Take care not to burn yourself.
  • Read the 2nd step's warnings.
  • Try to measure your fuel so it burns out just as you're done with it.
  • The stove can be extinguished by placing the inverted "measuring cup" over it, or blowing it out. Water will also quickly put out any alcohol fires. (Make sure the measuring cup has no fuel left in it.) Do not store the stove with fluid in it.
  • When primed, it can be started with a flint striker.
  • The thinner/smaller the utensils used to cook on it, the faster and hotter they will get. Have gloves handy.
  • If using this indoors, make sure you have a *very* stable place for it to sit where it will not get knocked over. Have a method for putting out the fire handy just in case.
  • If you cannot understand how to build it by reading these instructions, do not attempt to do so. You shouldn't be playing with fire.
The attached video shows how to unpack and use your new stove.


Any comments, improvements, or any critiques are welcome!

For anyone interested: It's been over three years since I've posted this 'ible. (And the response has been fantastic! Thank you all!) <br> <br>To date, I still regularly use the stove that is in this video, and it doesn't seem any the worse for wear. I haven't even painted it or sealed it in any way. The rack pins have a small amount of rust on them, but other than that, it's still in great shape!
How is it holding up now?
<p>Still going strong! Haven't had to build a new one yet!</p>
<p>Like the instructions said, I had to make a few small adjustments nothing too crazy though. Also, it took a few seconds to ignite but burned pretty good once it lit. Only problem I had was the wind, I had to block the wind otherwise it would have blown out easily.</p>
You have a lot of comments from people so I have not read all the way through it, but my question is would you be willing to make me one of these for me? I am currently traveling and have none of the tools listed. I can pay through PayPal if you want. Thanks.
Unfortunately, it's just not an option. Between the hours I work (11+ per day) and the commute (1.5 hrs. one way) I just don't have any spare time. If I were to charge you what I get paid by the hour for the time it'd take me to make it, plus shipping, you'd already be in the hundreds of dollars. :D Kinda defeats the purpose of making a &quot;free&quot; stove.
<p>OK, made two of these things that wouldn't light, UNTIL I noticed someone mention about &quot;priming&quot; it. Since I have no experience with burners like this, it wasn't until I saw in the video that one dumps a small amount of fuel into the windscreen after burner is filled, and it's the fuel in the windscreen that is ignited and burns and &quot;primes&quot; the burner. Shheesshh, such a simple point, and my only criticism of this is that I sure wish it woulda been mentioned sooner. I just wonder how many other people like me had their stove fail to light and then wonder what they did wrong! Otherwise, the instructions are great. Thanks for sharing this!</p>
:) See step 17, section 11: <br><br>&quot;11.) Dump small amount (will differ for each stove, experiment) of fuel into wind guard as primer.&quot; <br><br>Glad you were able to get it working! Where are you located so I can add you to the map?
<p>Hello guys, it proved a little difficult scheme.<br> Council to put the wool of steel, as was customary in the tanks of tanks</p><p>Ronza</p>
<p>Love this instructable!</p><p>Do you have any recommendations for how to do a simmer ring for the stove? Seems like a can top with the middle cut out might work?</p>
<p>Heet from the autoparts store is always under $3/bottle. Good ol' denatured alcohol. Great instructable, thanks!</p>
We just made one of these. We haven't actually epoxied everything together yet but we were so exited we lit it anyway. We lit it once during the day, but we couldn't see the flames so we decided to light it once it got dark out. The first time it lit fine with no problems. When we lit it again at night, I apparently put in a little to much primer and the whole thing exploded. Half the picnic table was on fire, but it was just the alcohol so that burned off quickly and no one and nothing was hurt, including the stove! we put it back together and lit it again (this time on a <em>non</em> flammable surface) and had a marsh-mallow roast over it. The five hour energy bottle worked like a charm, and after exactly half an hour, we were done. Thanks for this awesome Instructable! <br/>
LMAO @ "...the whole thing exploded...we put it back together and lit it again..." Glad to see everything worked out for you in the end. :D Can you describe the "explosion" as I've really gone to lengths to try and make this as least-detonate-able as possible. Was it more of a "fwoosh" of fumes lighting, or an actual "pop" of the stove?
It was a little bit of both. The can flew across to the other side of the picnic table. it wasn't a design flaw, it was more because of the fact that I poured half of the alcohol into the wind guard. It was quite the explosion though, and it wasn't actually our picnic table. It belongs to the marina that we are keeping our boat at. The thing kind of burst into flame, spewing lit alcohol everywhere. The next time we lit it, we used almost no primer and it worked fine, except for one problem, where alot of flame was coming out of the hole that the penny was over. This could have been caused by one of two things: 1.by the fact that when we lit the stove earlier after we put it out we were putting our fingerprints into the penny while it was soft, possibly bending the penny, and 2. a defect in the can from it exploding. I don't think it was vent flame either because it did that the whole time
&quot;alot of flame was coming out of the hole that the penny was over&quot;<br /> <br /> Generally, this is caused by the holes being too big, or too many, or the wind guard not having enough ventilation.&nbsp; The stove works by heating up and vaporizing the alcohol into a gas.&nbsp; If too much heat is channeled back to the stove, it will vaporize even MORE&nbsp;gas, making the flames even bigger, which in turn creates more heat, etc.&nbsp; The end result is a small torrent of flame coming from underneath the penny.<br /> <br /> Unfortunately, for each stove (windguard) the balance will be different.&nbsp; You'll find you'll have to make numerous stoves with different hole configurations to find the one that's optimized for your rig.<br /> <br /> That being said, it's not unusual for a small amount of offgassing to escape from the penny hole anyway.
<p>I lit my penny stove a few times and found that tbs or so of fuel that I splashed to get it started was different every time because of the inconsistency of the splash. I now use a bottle cap. put some fuel in there and I find the heat is concentrated to that area thus lighting the burner more quickly and predictably. I put it so roughly 2/3 is under the burner and 1/3 is sticking out so that the flame shoots up the side of the can causing the vapors to burn as soon as they escape.</p>
You can make the epoxy structure thicker and stronger if you use it similar to how fiberglass is laid. That is, wet the surface with the epoxy then wrap some saturated steel wool around it. While this isn't as pretty for certain applications, for mechanical ones it is superior. Of course you could also use asbestos or equivalent heat resistant cloth, but don't snort the stuff since it is theoretically a hazard to your lungs if asbestos.
<p>Steel Wool will BURN ! take some steel wool + D battery and instant fire starter. put a hot flame to steel wool like propane torch or lighter and it will go right up in flames. use proper temp resistant synthetic mesh or carbon fiber</p>
Hey, this is awesome! I was wondering if you could light it without the primer?<br>
<p>I didn't include pics of the pot holder and such. </p><p>WARNING: This stove blew up on me with first try. Luckily it was not welded together and the pressure just blew it into 2 pieces saving my body from shrapnel. I did singe all facial hair though and got one of the biggest scares of my life. I was very scared to try again because I didn't know what went wrong. Logically, if pressure built up enough to explode, one would think there's not enough vent holes. I doubled them (not shown in pic) and tried again. Now it works. These things demand a lot of respect. </p>
I should add that at first I added paint thinner to the stove but it wouldn't light. I shook as much out as I could and then add methyl hydrate. not sure if this was actually my problem or not. For one, paint thinner is petroleum based, just like regular gasoline. For two, who knows what concoction formed when I added the methyl hydrate after. As stated,I did empty the thinner as much as shaking the stove would empty it. I'm sure there was some residual left over when I added the hydrate. So I really don't know if the stove actually needed more venting or just less operator stupidity. In one of the posters pictures, there are a certain amount of vent holes and in another picture there are double the amount. The video and pics of the working stove seem to show the stove that has less holes(by way of counting the number of output flames). So I am still a little confused as to what really went wrong but bottom line is be very careful.
Furthermore, upon rereading the posters warnings,I realized I broke 1 if not 2 of them. <br>For 1, I was stupid enough to stand over the stove when first lighting it. If I would have listened to warnings then I may not have had to shave the singe off of my eyebrows. <br>2, it's possible I didn't add enough fuel originally. Which would break posters number 2 warning which days not to attempt to light a stove that is nearly out of fuel..<br>I'm just trying to spell every possibility out that may have contributed to my explosion..any insight is definitely welcome..by the way, awesome build man. It does work really nice and is so much lighter and smaller than what I was previously using. Thank you
<p>*heh heh* I'm glad you didn't loose any body parts that wouldn't grow back! <br>So there's a good number of places you could've had trouble. <br><br>1.) &quot;I should add that at first I added paint thinner to the stove but it wouldn't light.&quot;</p><p>Bear in mind that not all &quot;paint thinners&quot; are made the same. Some are Mineral Spirits, others are Acetone, or in the worse case, some are turpentines (and now you're playing chemistry when you mix them with something else). So be absolutely sure that what you're using is &quot;Methylated Spirits&quot; or &quot;Denatured Alcohol.&quot; Often it will even say &quot;Marine Stove Fuel&quot; on it. Its primary ingredient should be Ethanol (alcohol) with some Methanol (another, poisonous alcohol) added to &quot;denature&quot; it. Note that &quot;Methylated Spirits&quot; are NOT the same as &quot;Mineral Spirits&quot; (aka: &quot;White Spirit&quot; in the UK).</p><br><p>2.) &quot;For one, paint thinner is petroleum based, just like regular gasoline.&quot;</p><p>This seems to be your primary problem. You most definitely do NOT want a petroleum based paint thinner (most likely Naptha, or Mineral Spirits). That will be very explodey, but worse still, you never quite know when it's going to go since it has a very touchy oxygen to fuel ratio. </p><p>3.) &quot;In one of the posters pictures, there are a certain amount of vent holes and in another picture there are double the amount.&quot;</p><p>Yeah, I did numerous experiments with hole counts/sizes to see which would give the most consistent flame with the most efficient use of the fuel. The 8 larger holes (thumbtack) ended up working better than the 16 needle sized holes. They also clog less easily.</p><p>Back on the fuel, you mention using straight Methyl Hydrate. I don't know one way or the other if the off gassing from pure Methyl Hydrate is worse than the off gassing from Ethanol, but to be on the safe/disclaimer side, I would recommend using only fuels that specifically say &quot;Marine Stove Fuel&quot; or something along those lines. </p><p>I'm fairly certain your explosion came from the combination of the Mineral Spirits (assuming that's what you used) and the Methyl Hydrate. The Mineral Spirits are petroleum based, and come in 3 different &quot;flammability&quot; grades, with the most common consumer version being the least flammable. I assume it wasn't properly vaporizing before, and then having a small amount in your can and adding the Methyl Hydrate, you significantly lowered the flash point, allowing it to go boom. </p><p>Without question, avoid the &quot;White Spirits&quot; as they are not alcohol based. I would only feel safe using alcohol based fuels in this stove.</p>
<p>I just looked and the paint thinner I used was Mineral spirits. I will take your advice and use Methylated Spirits. I did try the 99.5 % pure Methyl Hydrate I had on hand but after some reading, I'm kind of scared of it now. Pretty nasty stuff. I'd much more prefer ethanol that is denatured with a smaller percentage of Methyl Hydrate. </p><p>Good to know about the holes. I assumed they were my biggest problem and therefore I doubled them for more, but after reading your reply, I realize my original hunch may have been more accurate (petroleum based fuel = explody). What I have working now seems pretty good though but maybe I'll make another with less holes again to experiment. Just won't use paint thinner this time. I think your right about why mine exploded. Especially considering yours worked with less holes. My paint thinner is mineral spirits and that = petroleum based. That just spells disaster. I feel so stupid. I hope others can learn from my mistake.</p><p>Thanks again. If I do anything else, I'll be sure to show you. </p><p>btw, here's some more pics. One of the stove packed away in my MSR alpine 2 cookset. Fits in there nice with 3 (2oz) bottles of fuel. The other is of the stove on it's own with flame in the dark.</p>
<p>Sweet! That's a nice cook set! I'm actually going to be taking the stove that was made in this 'Ible camping this very weekend. It's slightly oxidized from use, and there's a little rust on the pins/rack, but other than that, it's still working as well as the day I made it (and that was 5 years ago!). So you can look forward to many years of use out of it! </p><p>And don't feel bad. I did mention that you could find the denatured alcohol &quot;in the paint thinner section&quot; of the store, so it's an easy mistake. At least you weren't like some other person (who will remain nameless - no, it wasn't me) who put straight-up gasoline in it and ended up with a fiery ball of OMG. </p>
<p>Thanks for the pics! It's always amazing to see other people building this stove. Where are you located so I can add you to my map?</p>
<p>Ontario, Canada. </p>
<p>When I tried drilling the 1/4&quot; holes in the wind guard, my bit ran all over the place. Even after drilling 1/8&quot; pilot holes for the 16 staggered holes, I have 16 different looking 1/4&quot; holes. Oh well. For me, the most difficult part of the build was getting the 8 &quot;thumbtack&quot; holes in the burner. I didn't attempt these holes until the 2 can bottoms were fitted together, perhaps that made it more difficult. Brass thumbtacks didn't stand a chance. I went through 2 push pins to get 8 holes. The first one in a C clamp did 3 holes before breaking. Changed to a nail that made a bigger hole for 4 and 5. Pushpin number 2 I figured out that if I rotated it as I applied pressure, it was making progress. It got to the point that I was sharpening the point of the second pushpin. Then, the pin was spinning within it's plastic handle assembly. Once I noticed that, I held that portion in place with some needle nose pliers...Finally. 8 holes.</p><p>As other commenters suggested, I JB welded bolts to the inside bottom of the wind guard to hold the rack pins. I also used the paper folding method to keep my marks evenly spaced. I could use some practice using my dremel to cut cans. Even when trying to focus on the &quot;down&quot; ribs of the large can, I found my dremel cut-off bit wondering off the path.</p>
<p>Regarding the thumbtacks, I took the old-fashioned brass kind, and crushed them in my needle-nosed pliers, so that the sides bent inward. Then with the thumbtacks gripped in the pliers, I put two fingers inside the can, one on each side of where the hole would poke through, and pushed the thumbtack through with a twisting motion from the outside. Worked really well (after going through the same frustration as the rest of you).</p>
<p>For my cooking stove all I have is a tin can slightly bigger than my stove cut about an inch taller than my stove then drilled in holes so it would be a windscreen, chimney, and pot stand. I also don't use a stand because the bottom of the tin can is enough protection that the ground doesn't burn.</p>
love it. read about it and 6 long hrs later I had my very own model just like yours. I did have to make a custom rack my pot was to slim for your design. I also made my wind guard a little taller. it works great. it really does. first try and I'm completely satisfied with it. it will be my sole cooking devise on our week long canoe trip. thanks man.
<p>Awesome! I love to hear about people making it! Would also love to see pics!</p>
Good 'ible. Just a short note. Since you are using a pot rack with this setup you don't have to wait for the stove to heat up. Just put the pot on and don't waste the heat.
I like your design so much I've started constructing my own kit. I'm looking forward to testing this bad boy out in the woods to see what it'll do. So far I've finished the penny stove and am about to do the rack pins and wind guard. Tally ho!
agian harbor freight tools has them. dont buy the 10.00 dollar specail uill spend more in gas returning it. get thier 20 bock unit .
I just built one of these I haven't tested it yet and all Ive built is the stove and measuring cup but the instructions are the best and easiest to follow!! Thank you so much for posting!!!!
Javin, <br>I read all the talk about MSDS sheets and changes folks have made to this great little life saver. I have come to believe most alcohols are dangerous and I have seen people drink liquid sterno on many occasions, well enough on that I will be making mine just like you show, simple is almost always better. <br> <br> I am about to make my first &quot;Improved Pocket Sized Camp Stove&quot; and I give you 5/5 rating after seeing your video and puppy. I just might make a change to fit my needs and will send you pic's of the results as well as my puppy. <br> <br> Almost a professional prepper I guess, retired from public safety and now a disaster services worker supporting government communications when they fail thru ham radio, our motto is &quot;when all else fails&quot;. <br> <br>Our people ( many are retired ) carry go kits and the heavy MRE's since we must be self reliant and show up in area's that may be devoid of all infrastructure, meaning we're on our own. Now old and gray, I'm gonna use the much lighter freeze dried meals so I want to heat my water with a &quot;home brew&quot; stove, not a $150 stove made in China. <br> <br>Most of our people are volunteers on fixed incomes, so I hope to bring this to a training session to let everyone see how great your little stove works with mostly recycled can's. If it's ok with you I would like to send them a copy of the download so they can gather up what they need ahead of time. <br> <br>I had everything on hand including Denatured alcohol and the same refried beans which I am using as dip for my chips, minus the METOH Kudo's! <br>Rob <br>btw, I am curious, why no fiberglass, smell or melting?
Rob-<br> <br> By all means, use it at your leisure!&nbsp; I'd be proud to have the stove used in such a way.&nbsp;<br> <br> The reason for no fiberglass is that it's simply not necessary.&nbsp; In some stoves, the fiberglass supposedly helps vaporize the fuel, or &quot;slows down&quot; spills (neither advantage did I see in my tests).&nbsp; In mine, I saw precisely zero improvement, but did find that it took up space in the can meaning I had to put less fuel in it, so got a shorter burn time per fill.&nbsp; As you said, &quot;simple is better.&quot;&nbsp; I've seen and tested literally dozens of different designs of the penny stoves, and found that the absolute simplest model worked the best.&nbsp;<br> <br> To be fair, there was ONE model that proved to give a very SLIGHT advantage.&nbsp; It was almost identical but that the holes that are punched with thumbtacks here were instead drilled with a very tiny drill bit, on the top, at an angle that produced a &quot;tornado&quot; effect.&nbsp;<br> <br> This was great if you wanted to quickly heat a single (thin) cup of water, and increased boil times by nearly a full 40 seconds on average.&nbsp; Still, for all the extra work, I determined it wasn't nearly worth the effort, particularly in light of the fact that it would not heat a pan evenly if you were trying to cook fish (which is where this all started for me in the first place).&nbsp;<br> <br> So yeah, long-story short (I tend to ramble) nothing goes inside the penny stove because there's no point in it.&nbsp;
This Thing Is Awesome!!!!!
I don't get the rig, I'm finding it hard to make and even harder to use
can you explain the wind guard better? pics would be great! thank you!
it was kid of difficult building the actual stove from the two can lids, they kept tearing (yes the cans were tearing) but i got it to work on like the 8 try.
Best instructable i have ever seen, i am going to make multiple of these for natural disasters that come about. thank you very much!!!! :)
what kind of alcohol is in the denatured alc.? my mom is a chemist so she can get me some <strong><em>without the poison!</em></strong>
it's methylated spirits in the uk fyi. <br>90%ethanol with 10% methanol to make it poisonous so no tax has to be paid on the ethanol.
thanks so much!
denatured <br> <br>the natural impulse is to drink alcohol to get drunk <br> <br>denatured it to mean drink this to get drunk and you will die <br> <br>nuff said ?

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