I feel it's time to share my latest project - a low cost laser engraver,. The workspace is a bit small but none the less it works and comes so cheap that most will be able to replicate the result. I did take a few shortcuts, as I feel I don't have the knowledge to do all the electronics I opted for readymade but low cost in favor of trying to make my own (and most likely fail). All parts used are however easy to find.
I am pleased with the end result even if there is room for improvements. The small size and low power is a bit limiting but I have made allot of fun things already. Paper cutouts, plant markers and stamps among some. The engraver itself might not fit in a pocket but the workspace limits what you can do with it to fit in the pocket.
A word of warning is in place . This instructable is using a ~200mW red laser. It might nut cut through chunks of wood but it will make you go blind if you are not careful. Never look into the beam, even reflections can be dangerous if focused. Please be careful.
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Signing UpStep 1: Acquire the parts.
- Arduino - this is the heart of the control electronics.
- Easydrive - stepper driver.
- Two DVD-rom drivers - Maybe more if you’re unlucky, and at least one DVD-R to salvage the laser from.
- Laser housing - singles can be found on e-bay.
- Laser driver - There are lots of alternatives here, I use a simple LM317 based circuit.
- Various nuts, bolts and other building materials.















































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i'm not being able to get where the power supply is put in the circuit . being confused by the two "VR05R051" in your schematic.... please help !
Simple n good laser engraver, thanx for sharing your talent....
Great tutorial and awesome idea !
You could use the floppydrive-mechanics as well for an engraving machine as above, unfortunately they have a smaller "reach" as DVD-players. I've noticed that some floppy/DVD-drives use unipolar steppermotors/drivers, while other use bipolar steppermotors/drivers. (Some DVD-drives don't use steppermotors b.t.w.) You'll need to be sure driver and motor are the same type.
Well I am Brazilian and I have difficulty understanding English, would aid her.
I'm struggling to understand how to download the files to the arduino, control the motors, which files should I download?
You could pass them to me by email?
Thank you.
Well I am Brazilian and I have difficulty understanding English, would aid her.
I'm struggling to understand how to download the files to the arduino, control the motors, which files should I download?
You could pass them to me by email?
Thank you.
Well I am Brazilian and I have difficulty understanding English, would aid her.
I'm struggling to understand how to download the files to the arduino, control the motors, which files should I download?
You could pass them to me by email?
Thank you.
Do you have some data about materials cut-problem-availability to cut etc...
Thank you very much, and for the share
if we can link up and share ideas that can make this pocket engraver marketed (sold) to those poor guys who can't afford those of thousands of dollars, if possible follow me at batambuzesaad@yahoo.com. i will be very greatful .THANKS.
great job!!!!
I was thinking about using f.e. layada motorshield instead of use 2 easydrive stepper. Do you think it is possible?
the second question for elabz:
Did you manage to make driver with elements from cd-rom board?
Laser driver circuit:
C1 0,1uF
C2 47uF 25v electrolytic
D2 SA15A
IC1 LM317
R1 3,9 ohm
R3 51 ohm
R4 1 K ohm
R6 500 ohm TRIM POTENTIOMETER
Relay circuit for fan and laser:
D1 1N4148
R2 2,2 K ohm
T1 2N2222
VR05R051 RR1A (306-1019-ND at Digikey should work.)
U1 EASYDRIVER
U2 EASYDRIVER
U4 ARDUINO
i have troubles with the relay circuit, at the half of the work, the laser does not cut mark all the displacements, what can i do? what other relay can I use?
"The measurements here are not critical but it is important that every axis is square to the other entire axis."
I am at this point now the problem is that I have one stepper assembly that is even, on the other assembly the rails are angular to the whole assembly.
After scavanging through a couple of dvd-drives I only managed to get these to assemblies with steppers.
I want to use the angular piece as the x-axis. Now the problem is to align the rails of the x-axis to the y-axis.
You said the measurements are not critical but I guess I got this wrong when I say the alignment of the x-rails to the MDF are not critical ?
What I mean is, do the x-axis rails need to be perfectly aligned to the (assumed perfectly even) edges of the MDF board ? For the aluminium profiles are needed to be mounted square to the MDF board.
I hope you understand me :)
I'm just thinking out loud. Often helps me to get new ideas.
I was wondering, how did you import that skull using the inkscape text tool?
Can someone explain me how will I create g-code from a jpg file?
I tried with the laser engraver extension but I didn't make it to have a working file.
With simple letters everything works ok.
My jpg file is not a complicated picture, it is just a logo with my preferred fonts and a small figure, like the skull that Groover imported at inkscape.
If there is any other way, please provide me some info or any link.
As I was doing my tests, I found that the x and y axis moving opposite. I tried to change directions by typing "$7=8" or 16 or 24 but it seems that nothing changes.
Why is this happening? I have try with 0.6, 0.7 and 0.8 grbl versions but I don't see any difference..
I also found that my steppers were need calibration when I turned them on for first time, so I had to type x40 and y40, so the steppers went to the one side and were moving against the end of the axis, by doing a crack crack crack sound. When they finished this movement, I typed x0 z0 and they went at the opposite side so after that everything works fine. The only problem is that if you push the reset button at arduino, it seems the grbl is losing the positions and the steppers needs calibration again, but its easy because all you have to do is to type just x40 y40 and everything will become calibrated again.
Do we know why is this happening too?
I will waiting your ideas about the calibration as well. :)