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Step 5: Electronics

I started soldering the steppers. I used a ribbon cable to connect the steppers and solder them to the existing connections from the DVD boards. On the other end I solder a four pin header so that it could be used with a breadboard. The same thing goes for the Easydriver, solder pin headers and use them with the breadboard. Ribbon cable can be found in abundance around old computer shops and service centers. All those old disk drive cables can be of good use.

In the schematics I have added a relay for use with a fan. This can come in handy as the engraving produces some smoke.

The Easydriver have two pins called MS1 and MS2, these sets the step sequence. Tie them both to the five volt output from the Easydriver. This sets the step sequence to micro stepping . The four pins from the stepper connect to the motor output. All steppers I have found have all had the same pinout on the small connecting PCB. Connect the pins in the same order to the Easydriver as on the connecting PCB. The control pins (step, dir, gnd) goes to the Arduino. Besides this the Easydriver needs motor power connected. I use a twelve volt wall wart that drives the motors, fan and Arduino. There is a potentiometer that controls the power to the motors, I just set this to the lowest setting and turn it up a tad if the steppers don't have enough force. I don't know the rating on the steppers, if they gets to hot you’re driving them to hard.

The fan just needs to be connected to the fan output. A small computer fan works well, just connect the positive and negative leads to the correct output.

The laser driver is an LM317 based circuit with no specials. This will work fine but it is far from optimal. I am driving the laser diode far too hard at about 300mA and if you do that you can’t expect a very long life for the diode. The best solution would be to find a stronger laser and better driver but to keep to the spirit of things I wanted to use the laser from the DVDR itself. Laser on/off is controlled by the same relay as the fan.

If you want to simplify you could skip the whole laser driver and use a readymade driver. Then all you would have to do would be to connect the power to the fan relay. Of course this would probably be a little bit more expensive.

The whole thing evolved into a new Arduino shield, the Laser Shield. I have included the schematic and board layout in Eagle format . Creating a circuit board is a bit out of the scope for this instructable, but there are lots of really good guides here on Instructables.
If you want to make your own layout with Easydrivers I have made a Eagle library with the driver, it can be downloaded here .

<p>Thanks for your post,</p><p>I make follow you, but I use module power 5v 3A to power Easy drive. I dont know why IC A3897 are very hot (I only test for about 1 minute and motor has work).</p><p>Do you help me solve it?</p>
<p>hello, can i use laptop CD drives for this project?</p>
<p>as stated in this instructable, cd drive lasers aren't suitable for use.</p>
<p>Thanks Groover, you've get me going. After a search on the internet your design suits me the best. I've made it mostly like you did but with a few differences.</p><p>First to mention is the laser. I've used a blue laser pulled out of a RGB laser pattern projector. The power lies on approx 250mW, I think (I don't have a LPM). Blue light transfers more energy so there is more burning power. Even on white! paper.</p><p>The programs I used:</p><p>-<strong>GBRL v09.j</strong> (for Arduino Uno library) *</p><p>-<strong>Inkscape 0.91</strong> (for pc)</p><p>-<strong>LaserEngraver</strong> (plugin for <strong>Inkscape</strong>) *</p><p>-<strong>UniversalGcodeSender v1.0.9</strong> (for pc)</p><p><br>Due to version differences of the programs I had to make some adjustments to some of them:</p><p><br><strong>GBRL</strong>, to switch the laser on and off (Gcode M03 and M05) the following has to be done before installation:</p><p><em>1a. Download <strong>GRBL</strong> sourcecode from github ( </em><a href="https://github.com/grbl/grbl" rel="nofollow"><em>https://github.com/grbl/grbl</em></a><em> )<br>2a. Extract zip File<br> 3a. Use Notepad++ and open the file called config.h (Folder: grbl-master\grbl)<br> 4a. Search for a line, that starts with &bdquo;#define VARIABLE_SPINDLE&ldquo;<br>5a. Comment this line out ( Use a double Slash // )<br> 6a. Save the File</em></p><p><br>-<strong>LaserEngraver</strong> plugin for <strong>Inkscape</strong> has a bug, to solve this read the following:</p><p><em>If you&rsquo;ve tried to use the modified Inkscape laser engraver plugin mentioned in this blog post about building an engraver, you may have run into an error trying to do the export. It&rsquo;s something like &ldquo;AttributeError: &lsquo;module&rsquo; object has no attribute &lsquo;unittouu&rsquo;&rdquo; or &ldquo;unittouu not part of inkex module&ldquo;. Here&rsquo;s the fix.</em></p><p><em>The bug is on line 3080 of laserengraver.py and broke due to an Inkscape change. Old line:</em></p><p><em>doc_height = inkex.unittouu(self.document.getroot().get('height'))</em></p><p><br><em>New line:</em></p><p><em>doc_height = self.unittouu(self.document.getroot().xpath('@height', namespaces=inkex.NSS)[0])</em></p><p><br><em>Be sure to have the exact same number of spaces/tabs on this line. In Python, whitespace is important, so you can&rsquo;t mix and match spaces and tabs, and all code blocks must have the same whitespace alignment.</em></p><p><em>Problem solved!</em></p><p>Your Gcode sender does not work so I have downloaded <strong>UniversalGcodeSender</strong>. This works fine and is simple to use.</p><p>I've added some foto's to show some details and a Youtube video where you can see some examples of engraving and cutting I did with it.</p><p>Now I know what to do I wil scale things up and start a new project with two flatbed scanner interiors an my 2W blue laser.</p><p>https://youtu.be/6A7YREqS-w8</p>
<p>Hi! And thanks for your instructions. As i stated earlier on other thread i am bit of a novice with electronics, but i have all the components here besides the mosfet. Do you think that if i follow your &quot;schematic&quot; in the last photo in this post i wont run into trouble? do you happen to have that picture in better resolution?</p>
<p>Hey Thanks Venkes,</p><p>This is the very good All-in-1 Solution post you made.</p>
<p>how would we give input to the engraver?how would it know what pattern should be engraved?</p>
<p>read the instructions :) it is all there.</p>
<p>I am currently building this :) Only difference is that i bought simple step-down module for laser : <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-LM317-DC-DC-step-down-DC-converter-circuit-board-power-supply-module-1pcs/32230363619.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.Cy1En3" rel="nofollow">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-LM317-DC-DC-st...</a> and i am now wondering about the schematics that how i would apply this part to the plan. i am at novice level in electronics - currently studying first year of ICT in UAS.</p><p><br>Thanks for this instructable, it is fantastic!</p>
<p>what version of inkspace? video looks different than latest version.</p><p>i get errors when creating laser file</p>
<p>Hi! Can I use an Arduino Nano instead of UNO?</p>
<p>if its not too late already you should be able to as it has the same pinouts but be sure to have positive to positive and negative to negative because the nano has no protection from reverse current. you of course need a breadboard then too though.</p>
Hello. I need help with electronic. I bought all but what now?? I am beginners with electronic and i dont understand everything. If somebody can help me with this.... i will be very grateful. ..
<p>Hello. Im writing the G-Code interpreter sketch on the Arduino on my own. I only need to know, how the G-Code Sender knows when to send the next line. What does he expect as a response from the Arduino? </p>
<p>thanks in advance!</p>
<p>Can some one tell me what components are in this Lasershield. Because i can't figure out all of them. I know only one on schematics.</p>
<p>hi there... I was wondering if... I want to use it to engrave several times the same figure: some lines. Is it possible to connect it to the power and put a program in Arduino so I don t have to use the computer? I mean, I connect PC to arduino, upload my little program, and then if I connect the engraver to the power it will work? thank you in advance!</p>
<p>No, Arduino will power on but you will have to use the grbl to control.<br></p>
... thnks :)
<p>No, it won't. Arduino is just like a calculator. You will have to give input in order to receive output.<br>Although you could write a program that will stay on an sdcard and then arduino can repeat that program.</p>
yes, exactly! like this one? : http://www.cetronic.es/sqlcommerce/disenos/plantilla1/seccion/producto/DetalleProducto.jsp?idIdioma=&amp;idTienda=93&amp;codProducto=888304015&amp;cPath=1342&amp;gclid=CjwKEAjw4dm6BRCQhtzl6Z6N4i0SJADFPu1nDCpx0W2rYdx65nX7nO-NEl_Vr1wEsb1NHxrDNYlzqRoCOt3w_wcB<br>how can I do it? ( sd card )... :)))))
<p>Yes with sdcard and lots of coding can do that.<br>Or try searching if someone have that open sourced</p>
<p>Maybe I have not read it pretty well, but I can not find anywhere how much voltage should be marked in the image introduced into the circuit? If you need one at all. The answer Thank you in advance!</p>
<p>That jumper is just an alternative connection for the laser. If you follow the paths you will find they connect to the same as the laser screw terminal. The laser circuit will draw power from the arduino and the Vin pin.</p>
What power supply is should use? How many volt/amp I should supply for whole setup.
<p>How does this work without limit switches? I dont want the motors to run past the length of the rail, causing problems! Also, how do you calibrate the speed of the print, say if you are using a more powerful laser (1.0 W) and you dont want to set stuff on fire... No limit switches are used here so how do you zero the axes and keep the print from going larger than the print area? Also, how do you calibrate the step/mm because with the 53.333 step/mm command given in the project the movements is not properly scaled to the commands. If i put in X10 it will move more than 10mm... Thanks...</p>
Setting of steps depends on what software u r using.<br>If using the given grbl version and controller u jut need to type $ and press enter.<br>That will list all commands that can be set manually. Set first two commands $0 &amp; $1 to 53.33.<br>The author had already described that the inkscape file properties must be st to 38mm*38mm so no limit switch necessary. You can override the stopped manually by using override box in the grbl controller window.
<p>hi, i made the engraver but i am facing a problem, the motion is working fine just needs some calibration but the laser is not burning anything. it is being turned on and off but it just doesn't burn anything what can be the issue</p>
A few things come to mind:<br>1. It is underpowered. How much current are you passing through it?<br>2. It is unfocused. Do you have a focusing lens? Have you tried adjusting the focal length to suit you rig?<br>3. It's not the right laser. Where did you get it? If you got it from a DVD burner, did you pull out the right one?<br>4. It has 'gone LED'... as they say. If you mistreat a laser, it fails and just becomes a nice bright LED.<br><br>There might be other reasons too, that's just what I can think of right now.
4. May be possible because of power fluctuations laser(even with driver) can behave like a working laser but won't burn anything.
Please check if the laser has at least 2.2v and 100mA of power supply.<br>Also check if has focused properly on whatever surface you have setup.<br>Note: It won't engrave shiny metal or glass.
<p>You dont really need to connect MS1 and MS2 on the Easy Driver to 5 Volts.</p><p>The default step setting is 1/8th step.</p><p>From Easy Driver web site:</p><strong>The Easy Driver is able to operate in 1/8th, 1/4, half, and full<br> step (2 phase) modes. These four modes are selected by the logic<br> levels on the MS1 and MS2 input pins. Normally, the pull-up<br> resistors on the Easy Driver hold MS1 and MS2 high, which results in<br> a default setting of 1/8th microstep mode. You can pull either<br> or both to ground to select the other 3 modes if you want.</strong>
<p>So simply leave them as it is(not connected to anywhere) will result in auto stepping? of full, half or 1/8?</p>
<div><div><p>From what I understand, if you leave them unconnected it will be 1/8th step.</p><p>As it says that is the default. I assume if you connect them different ways you will get Full, Half or Quarter step.</p><p>This is the table from the website.</p></div></div>
I'm a newbie to electronics buddy, so don't know this stuff very well. But I found what you said its almost the same as on other site.<br>Quick Specs:<br>Each EasyDriver can drive up to about 750mA per phase of a bi-polar stepper motor. It defaults to 8 step microstepping mode. (So if your motor is 200 full steps per revolution, you would get 1600 steps/rev using EasyDriver.) This setting can be easily overridden by tying the MS1 and/or MS2 pin to ground to set the driver to use 1/8, 1/4 or 1/2 microstep mode (See the datasheet for the table of values). It is a chopper microstepping driver based on the Allegro A3967 driver chip. For the complete specs of the design, read the A3967 datasheet. It has a variable max current from about 150mA/phase to 750mA/phase. It can take a maximum motor drive voltage of around 30V, and includes on-board 5V regulation, so only one supply is necessary. The best part - low cost. The parts cost is easily less than $10, even less if you make the board yourself.<br>http://www.schmalzhaus.com/EasyDriver/
<p>Hi dear, I'm really excited about your project, I have read and searched for information to use GRBL but I can not make move my engines with it, will that use &quot;Adafruit Motor / Stepper / Servo Shield for Arduino Kit - v1.2&quot; if engines run libraries move, but if I do not work for me GRBL.<br><br>Do any of the users has made this project using the shield named?<br><br>Thanks I hope your understanding and prompt reply, thanks.</p>
<p>Use the GRBL of the given version or use from grbl's site and the controller</p>
<p>Hi Groover, nice pocket laser engraver. I would like to know what the work area is as I could find it in your instructions. Thanks</p>
<p>Its written 38mmx38mm</p>
<p>Hello you could spend some graphic as you do on and off the laser diode? I think it is a LM317</p>
<p>It is there, its a 5v relay.</p>
<p>ups I forgot also to ask: wich batteries could I use in this case? thank youuuu</p>
<p>Whats Soft i can use WITHOUT Isnkape? It was very stuped on my PC</p><p>Maybe to be any List of soft on PC for using with <strong>GBRL v09.j</strong> (for Arduino Uno library) ?</p>
<p>@jm.instructable</p><p>I think that the &quot;Adafruit Motor / Stepper / Servo Shield for Arduino Kit - v1.2&quot; you're trying to use is simular to the &quot;Velleman KA03&quot; I have experimented with. I coulden't get this one going as well because one cannot send Gcode to it, it seems. </p><p>You can get the steppers running using the Arduino Sketch, but you have to use GBRL and Gcode to stear the steppers in this project. The easyest way for you I think, is to buy two SchmalzHaus EasyDrivers (the're not expensive). This works! </p><p>See the detailed plan in my comment below and the one of Groover above to lighten up things. In my comment you can also see the adjustments you have to make to a few programs to get them correctly running. </p><p>Greets, </p><p>Venkes.</p>
<p>Thanks Groover, you've get me going. After a search on the internet your design suits me the best. I've made it mostly like you did but with a few differences.</p><p>First to mention is the laser. I've used a blue laser pulled out of a RGB laser pattern projector. The power lies on approx 250mW, I think (I don't have a LPM). Blue light transfers more energy so there is more burning power. Even on white! paper.</p><p>The programs I used:</p><p>-GBRL v09.j (for Arduino Uno library) *</p><p>-Inkscape 0.91 (for pc)</p><p>-LaserEngraver (plugin for Inkscape) *</p><p>-UniversalGcodeSender v1.0.9 (for pc)</p><p><br>Due to version differences of the programs I had to make some adjustments to some of them:</p><p><br>GBRL, to switch the laser on and off (Gcode M03 and M05) the following has to be done before installation:</p><p>1a. Download GRBL sourcecode from github ( <a href="https://github.com/grbl/grbl" rel="nofollow">https://github.com/grbl/grbl</a> )<br>2a. Extract zip File<br> 3a. Use Notepad++ and open the file called config.h (Folder: grbl-master\grbl)<br> 4a. Search for a line, that starts with &bdquo;#define VARIABLE_SPINDLE&ldquo;<br>5a. Comment this line out ( Use a double Slash // )<br> 6a. Save the File</p><p><br>-Laser Engraver plugin for Inkscape has a bug, to solve this read the following:</p><p>If you&rsquo;ve tried to use the modified Inkscape laser engraver plugin mentioned in this blog post about building an engraver, you may have run into an error trying to do the export. It&rsquo;s something like &ldquo;AttributeError: &lsquo;module&rsquo; object has no attribute &lsquo;unittouu&rsquo;&rdquo; or &ldquo;unittouu not part of inkex module&ldquo;. Here&rsquo;s the fix.</p><p>The bug is on line 3080 of laserengraver.py and broke due to an Inkscape change. Old line:</p><p>doc_height = inkex.unittouu(self.document.getroot().get('height'))</p><p><br>New line:</p><p>doc_height = self.unittouu(self.document.getroot().xpath('@height', namespaces=inkex.NSS)[0])</p><p><br>Be sure to have the exact same number of spaces/tabs on this line. In Python, whitespace is important, so you can&rsquo;t mix and match spaces and tabs, and all code blocks must have the same whitespace alignment.</p><p>Problem solved!</p><p>Your Gcode sender does not work so I have downloaded UniversalGcodeSender. This works fine and is simple to use.</p><p>I've added some foto's to show some details and a Youtube video where you can see some examples of engraving and cutting I did with it.</p><p>Now I know what to do I wil scale things up and start a new project with two flatbed scanner interiors an my 2W blue laser.</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/6A7YREqS-w8" width="500"></iframe></p>
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