Recently, I got a nasty case of poison ivy from the cow field behind my house. Since this is the first time I've gotten it this year, I decided to make my home made, all natural cure again.

Jewelweed blooms May through October in the eastern part of North America from Southern Canada to the northern part of Florida. It is found most often in moist woods, usually near poison ivy or stinging nettle. The leaves and the juice from the stem of Jewelweed are used by herbalists as a treatment for poison ivy, oak and other plant induced rashes, as well as many other types of dermatitis.

What you're gonna need:
Jewelweed plants
Pot to boil it
Stove to boil it
Ice cube trays
Freezer bag

Step 1: Gather Jewelweed

Jewelweed is an amazing plant that grows all over the place where I live. You can find it next to the road, near creeks and streams, in fields, and just about anywhere.

So get up, go look around, and gather some! You can use the whole plant for the remedy, and it comes up out of the ground easily by pulling the stalk. You will want probably three or four medium sized plants for this. Enough to fill a pot about half way, once it's chopped up.

Step 2: Have a Cup of Tea

Take your Jewelweed plants and chop them up so they fit in the bowl you have. The smaller the pieces are, the better it works. Now fill up your pot with water, put the plant in, and toss it on the stove. Bring it to a nice rolling boil to ensure all of the helpful juices have come out of the plant. The water is going to turn a nice bright orange color. Let it cool, and remove all the plant material so you are left with bright orange jewelweed tea.

Step 3: Freeze Your Tea

Once the tea has cooled, pour it into ice cube trays to freeze. I didn't have ice cube trays when I made mine, so I used styrofoam plates and poured it in there. This step is pretty self explanatory. You freeze the Jewelweed tea, so stick the ice cube trays in the freezer.

Step 4: Use Your Ice

Once you have solid little orange cubes, pop 'em out and stick them all in a freezer bag. If you don't have a current case of poison ivy, good for you. Toss those babies back in the freezer for later. If you do, grab one (or two, if it's really bad) and go outside or to the tub and rub the cube on your rash. The chemicals in the plant counteract the poison and start to work immediately. Do this twice a day, and your poison ivy will clear up in no time! I've also found that scrubbing my rash with a loofa or semi abrasive pad before rubbing the ice on it helps to heal it faster. The rash opens, I rub the ice on it, the rash scabs and heals.
<p>More evidence in 24 hours that a gel made from sodium fluorescein, pectin, and agar and 100 ml tap water produced a result. A small hole can be seen faintly but it is there.</p>
<p>Pectinase enzyme at a unknown concentration started with the help of diluted 0.166 moles per L ammonia hydroxide started causing the gel to deteriate. It ate through the pectin.</p>
<p>Pectinase enzyme (Maybe) is activated and attacks the pectin at 2.5% mass by volume and attacks gel showing a faint but clear oval apperance around the middle gel.</p>
<p>Here after 4 hours the gel already started to degrade. I don't know if the pectinase is active at pH 10 but something is attacking the gel.</p>
<p>The pectin-agar-yellow dye-gel is placed into the fridge for 12 hours. Necessary to form a gel.</p>
<p>Here is a trail run of pectinase test for pectin. It consist of sodium fluorescein, agar, jam pectin and 100 ml of tap water. Pectin must be kept under the fridge after boiling for 5-20 min at 100 degrees C. <br><br>A 405 nm purple laser fires at the container causing it to glow. If pectinase in sufficient quality is present it will degrade the pectin in the gel.</p>
<p>Here is the final product pectinase activated with 4 ml of 1 m Ammonia hydroxide to 20 ml volume. The Sawyer filter removes some soap chemicals, cell wall debris, spores and other things while (Most likely) keeping enzyme Pectinase intact. Vials (Centrifuge tubes) kept at 8 degrees C for days to stablize the enzyme.</p>
<p>Spun down again 35,000 rpm T after being kept in the fridge overnight and decanted and kept in separate centrifuge tubes. </p>
<p>Spun down in centrifgue at total 35,000 rpm and decanted. Kept in fridge over night.</p>
<p>Filtered once since filtered twice is not necessary. Debris should settle to the bottom at 8 degrees C for 12 hours or so in the fridge. Put in leak proof container. (Update).</p>
<p>The more I think about it the spores will have a limited solubility in solution and more junk from the remaining cocoa pudding will dissolve in solution making it more dilute. I am doing it for 2 days to 3 days. Right now I am doing this for 2 days exposing at 20 degrees C soap solution for 2 days (48 HRS). Here is the pellet remaining and the filtered results.</p><p>It may require double simple filtration.</p>
<p>I thought long and carefully about about the mold issue. Higher concentrations of 30-100 g of mold spore (done outside with plenty of ventilation and masks on!!). Then the mold dormant is exposed to 5 g of soap (special Palmolive soap). This is done in 1-2 weeks. The solution will be carefully pipette to avoid junk from entering the pipette. Latter on at room temperature the mold (PI) will be attempted to extracted with several types of soaps (Palmolive soap). Here are some initial test results of purifying the PI with soap (Difficult to do with my experience). </p><p>Left is the mold in concentrated soap and water. Right is the solution of tap water all done OUTSIDE (AIRBORNE SPORES) ETC. </p>
<p>Growth of clover of diluted samples 35,000 rpm Total that are growing with filtered resulted from special filter.</p>
<p>Samples may be too dilute though..... Another image.</p>
<p>Pictures..... of concentrated PI spore culture at 35% with soap (special type) Palmolive soap.</p>
<p>Issue about sending 35% or even 17% H202 through the special filter incase it damages the filter.</p>
<p>Here are some more images may be too dilute.... may reqiure 3% hydrogen peroxide with soap. Pictures to come soon.</p>
<p>I have been thinking about the issue may be <strong>Inactivated mold</strong> that doesn't grow or produce Pectinase. So I am doing it again with higher concentration of a pellet 10 X times the weight and will spin down to <strong><em>90,000 to 140,000</em></strong> rotations per minute Total. Hydrogen peroxide with palmolive detergent soap in low concentrations to remove the cell wall of the fungi. Here is the first step with 35% H2O2 100 ml with soap and fungi pellet. </p>
<p>Here are some final results for 3 days of exposure to enzymes (that are probably too weak or inactive due to ph. The clover starts to grow. It proves how difficult it is to do this.</p>
<p>Pre filtering with regular filter paper before exposing to 90,000 to 105,000 rpm Total may also be required.</p>
<p>Even for the 91,000 rotation per minute may result in no pectinase enzyme or little of it. Perhaps not enough to destroy the cells of the plant. Larger concentration of mold (PI) may be required too.</p>
<p>Here is the unfiltered results of mold extract 35,000 rpm Total tested on clover. As seen mold starts to grow due to some mold occuring in the solution.</p>
<p>Special filter required for use.</p>
<p>About 2 ml of diluted pesticide (Natural herbicide) is added to the clover soil to see if there is any effect on the clover seeds. This will go on for 5 days.</p>
<p>Each day a small amount of the potential herbicide is test on clover to see if a delay or etc is happening with the clover seeds.</p>
<p>Here are some new images of the solution be diluted and sent through the filter.</p>
<p>Here is new info on weed control potential. Spun in centrifuge sample of soap plus fungi for 91,000 rotations a minute and then add water (a bit) and send through a micron filter that blocks bacteria and fungi including spores. Testing on clover too. Hopefully something interesting will happen.</p>
<p>The mold from the centrifuged 35,000 rpm total is un desirable result!!</p>
<p>An update some moldspores from the solution have caused the clover to be contaminated with pencillium I. It time to reduce the pH first with a weak acid and get the pH to 7. Then remove spores minus Pectinase enzymes from cultures and add 1 drop of 1 mole ammonia hydroxide to the sample. The ph should range from 9-12. The higher the ph the better. Soap may effect the filter though a bit.</p>
<p>Pectin like agar will be test next. The solution of soap if not enough pectinase is present will not digest the pectin like agar. Since 4 g gives you 1g of sugar or less approx making 10 ml gives for 100 ml gives 0.1 g of sugar. Probably not enough sugar to allow other things to grow. Ideal test for qualitative tests. To avoid sugar content use 2 grams to 2.5 g pectin subtrate in 100-150 ml water (tap or distilled).</p>
<p>Here is the result of 3.5-4 ml of sample with enzymes (Unknown concentration of Pectinase. The seed turn brown black indicating death. </p>
<p>Here are the seed glowing bluish green under 405 nm laser light. This indicate the present of the herbicide.</p>
<p>Here are clover seeds growing with herbicide to see what happens.</p><p>Here is a picture. Pectin like agar plates must be grown with substrate to see if the enzyme is high enough to attack the pectin. This will tell you if the herbicidal action is due to the enzyme or the chemicals added.</p>
<p>To enhance enzyme productivity and lysing of cell wall enzymes solution is kept near 50 degrees C.</p>
<p>Here is an idea for recipe of lysing medium.</p><p>Sodium per-carbonate solution 0.1 moles per L.</p><p>Ammonium laurel sulfate 0.1 g total.</p><p>sodium dodecylbenzenesulfate salt 0.1 g</p><p>pH 10.</p><p>Small amounts of acetic acid is added to bring it down from 12 to 9-10 pH.</p>
<p>A few chemicals including ammonia laurel sulfate and sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate salts can be used to destroy the cell wall of the pencillium spores and release the enzyme Pectinase at a ph of 8-9. Centrifuging at 35,000 rpm is ok but I may need to go up to 100,000 rotations a minute or greater to remove the cells and purify the enzyme. The blue laser did not work well since the fungi debris absorbed into the solution and reduced significantly the amount of light from the laser that could penetrate (approx 80% loss.).</p><p>Also the use of sodium per-carbonate solutions may help degrade the cell wall and enhance enzyme extraction.</p><p>Here are some images of the results. Oh final enzyme at 35,000 rpm kept at 4-8 degrees C. The extraction of each vial is 1 ml for 4 ones but I can go up to 1.5 ml.</p>
<p>The red laser that I was using burned out so I am getting a better 150 mw red 650 mw laser (It doesnot matter) if the optical output is a little less). It a module with a special heat sink. I will have a 150 mw and a 200 mw laser for use.</p>
<p>New design (Laser) with prism for protocol. Prism spreads beam evenly to target fungi.</p>
<p>I been thinking the KEY to extraction is high voltage plasma at 12,000 volts that send out EM waves that may penintrate the cell wall. Lasers at 250 and 200 mw (Red and blue) are very useful. The centrifuge must be set to 5-6 minutes and higher concentrations of fungi mold must be used. </p>
<p>Although a dye was used ..... it must omitted from the separation process in the future.</p>
<p>Here an image of the centrifuge seperating with Sodium dichloroisocyanurate and yellow marker dye with a small amount of pellet. Here it spun down by 7000 rpm.</p>
<p>It will be used to purifiy or attempt to remove the enzyme safely without harsh chemicals (Phenol-Chloroform) for example.</p>
<p>Here is pic of laser to burn through the center of the q-tip with bacteria. I also exposed the q-tip to 12,000 volts per cm.</p>
<p>I will use high powered laser and a centrifuge which I bought the combination if spinning and laser exposure may help. </p>
<p>A lot of digestive enzymes like pectinase and cellulase work near a pH of 3-4. So a dilute solution of citric acid and sodium citrate at 3.5 pH with enzymes will be used with a centrifuge (eventually) to attack penicillium fungi. If the pH is too low or too high it will destroy or denature the enzyme. That is not happening with my projects so becareful with pH.</p>
<p>Again this is a way of extracting enzymes from bacteria mold. It is a bit different since you are using whole cells (fungi), etc.</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/36RXIjHMC6g" width="500"></iframe></p>
<p>Here is a video on how to make calcium alginate also I am planning to grow penicillium D as mentioned below but use sugars, amino acids and calcium alginate to target weeds safely.</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/FRl64p5mQt8" width="500"></iframe></p>
<p>Way off topic here but I am thinking of developing calcium alginate beads with a natural mold that slowly over a period of time releases enzymes that has the potential to break down the pectin inside the poison ivy leaves.</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Zxa9guEVmus" width="500"></iframe></p>
<p>Again here is a method I use with 1.2% 200 ml of bleach (Sodium dichloroisocyanurate salt) with mold growing in solution with yeast extract.</p><p>Concentration of fresh sample of Cl2 ions: 1150 mg Cl2.</p><p>I HAVE ISOLATED FROM A LEMON. SOME MOLDS ARE TOXIC. ONLY DO THIS WITH EXTENSIVE RESEARCH AND KNOWING WHAT TYPE IT IS WITH A MICROSCOPE 1000 x MAG.</p>

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