Introduction: Poker Table
This is a 48 inch Oak Poker Table.
You will need :
8 - 20" X 6" X 1" solid oak pieces of wood.
1 - 96" X 48" X .75" Oak Plywood
1 - 96" X 48" X .5" Oak Plywood
1 - 96" X 48" X .75" MDF
Trim pieces of your choice
Rope of your choice
Step 1: Pedestal Part 1
Lets make the pedestal of the table.
First make sure you are wearing protective eyewear when building this project.
Rip 8 pieces of Oak plywood to 29" X 7.5" X .75.
Once you have all 8 pieces ripped to size, cut the sides to 22.5 degree angles.
Using a brad nailer and wood glue, assemble the pieces into an octagonal round base.
I shot the nails at the very top and bottom of the pieces because we will use trim to cover these areas up.
Let the glue dry for 24 hours
Step 2: Pedestal Part 2
Now lets cut the bottom of the pedestal.
Use the remaining oak plywood to cut an octagon shape 30" in width.
I did this using Surfcam and a CNC Router, but you can do this also with a little drawing and then cut with a jigsaw.
Do this by drawing a 30" line vertically on the wood. Then draw another 30" line horizontally intersecting at the midpoints.
Repeat this process again rotating 45 degrees clockwise on the previous lines. You should have a something like a "+" and an "X" with all midpoints lined up. This will help you with the octagon shape. The 8 lines represent midpoints of each side of the octagon. At the end of the 8 lines draw a intersecting line with a steel rule until you have your shape.
Then cut a 15" diameter hole in the center of your octagon (this is necessary for assembly)
It is better to measure and draw the pattern on the plywood. Then use a jigsaw to carefully cut the plywood.
After the piece is cut use a brad nailer to attach to the end of the assembled piece from step 1.
Use any remaining plywood to cap the other end.
Drill a 3/8" hole in the center on the cap to help attach the table.
Step 3: Chip Trays
Cut the 8 - 1" thick pieces of oak to 20" X 6"
Then cut 22.5 degrees off the ends so all 8 pieces will fit together 360 degrees.
You can make the chip tray any way you like as long as the overall dimensions match. If you want the drink holder on the left instead of the right, or maybe you don't want a drink holder. Maybe you want more slots to hold chips. Do whatever you want to satisfy your needs.
Again I used Surfcam and a CNC Router to cut the chip trays.
I cut five slots to hold 150 chips (30 in each slot). Each slot is 4.125" in length and is the width of a poker chip.
I also cut a 3.5" diameter circle .75" deep into the wood for a place to put a drink.
If you do not have a CNC router then you can modify this a little by cutting all the way through the 1-inch thick oak using a jigsaw.
Once you have all 8 pieces cut assemble them with a biscuit joiner or use dowel pins in the sides. Be sure to use wood glue as well.
Step 4: Wood Transition
I added a wooden piece to transition from an octagon shape to a circle. I wanted the playing surface to be round, so this piece was perfect for the transition.
Place the assembled chip trays on top of the 1/2" Oak Playwood. Using a pencil trace along the inside of the chip trays for your octagon shape. Then draw a 30" diameter circle right in the middle. The circle is your playing table. Feel free to make it any size diameter you wish.
Again I used a CNC router to cut this piece, if you do not have a router then carefully use a jigsaw and cut along the lines you drew on the plywood.
Step 5: Assembly
Next you need to cut a base plate for the table.
I used 3/4" MDF. You will not see any of this unless you look underneath the table.
Take your chip tray assembly and place it on top of the MDF.
Trace along the outer edge of the chip trays on the MDF.
Then offset the octagon shape inside by 1 inch ( i used 1-inch thick trim along the sides of my table, if you use a different thickness then offset by that amount) Your chip tray assembly should overhang the base by the thickness of the trim you will use to dress up the sides of the table.
Use a jigsaw to cut the MDF along the lines you traced.
Drill a 3/8" hole for a center point on the MDF so you can line it up to the center point on the base of the pedestal. Be sure to countersink .375 deep. (This will keep the playing table flat on the MDF instead of hitting the head of the bolt)
Once the piece is cut center your chip tray assembly on the MDF (remember it should overhang the MDF by the thickness of your trim on all sides)
Use a 1.5" brad nailer to shoot through the MDF into the Oak Chip Trays, be sure to avoid shooting nails through any of the cutouts on your chip tray)
Next put your transition oak piece from step 4 in the center of your chip trays.
Use 1" nails to through the MDF into your transition piece to attach to the base.
Next use whatever trim design you like for the sides of the table. Be sure to cut to the same length as each chip tray with a 22.5 degree angle on each of the ends.
Place each piece under each chip tray and attach using a brad nailer. Shoot the nails through the trim into the thickness of the MDF.
I added extra support by adding a 15" X 1" X 1" block of wood on the backside of the trim underneath the table. This enables you to pick up the table by the trim and not worrying about it coming loose or breaking off.
DO NOT ATTACH THE PLAYING TABLE YET.
Step 6: Attach Table to Pedestal
Lay your table on top of the pedestal (may need an extra hand with this)
Line the 3/8" hole of the table to the 3/8" hole to the pedestal. Use a 3/8" bolt and tighten them together.You will have to go through the 15" diameter hole on the bottom of the pedestal that you made in step 2
Now drill 4 more 3/8" holes through the center of the table through the cap of the pedestal and countersink them. Use 3/8" bolts to tighten the table down to the pedestal. This will prevent the table from rotating on the pedestal. (Be sure the heads of all the bolts are flush with the MDF so the playing table sits flat)
Use more trim to cover up the bottom and top pieces of your pedestal to hide any nails you used to assemble it. Also use trim with 3/4" radius along the edges of the octagon base of the pedestal to cover up the thickness of the plywood you used.
The trim will add a unique look to your table and make it very pleasing to the eye.
Step 7: Playing Table and Stain
Once the table is tight on the pedestal you can use felt to wrap the circular playing table from step 4.
When you wrap the circular playing table be sure it is tight and make sure there are no creases.
I used velveteen and stapled it to the underside of the playing table.
Use wood filler to fill any and all gaps in the table then sand the entire table with a 100-grit sandpaper ( be careful when sanding the plywood, you do not want to sand off the oak finish)
After you rough sand the table use 400 grit sandpaper and sand a smooth finish to the wood. You shouldn't feel any irregularities, everything should be smooth to the touch.
When you are done sanding be sure to blow off all the dust so you can stain it.
I used 3 coats of red oak stain on my table followed by 5 coats of polyurethane to give it a glossy shine.
After it is stained you can attach the circular playing area wrapped in felt.
Place it on top of your table covering all the bolts and attach it from underneath the table using 1" screws (I used screws in case I needed to take the table a part. The table is 48" wide so it probably will not fit through doors)
The last thing to do is place rope around the inside of your chip tray assembly to hide any gaps. Use super glue to attach to the transitional piece.
Enjoy your new table! People will love it!