Poltergeist

Hi,
today I will show you my latest construction.
Some month ago Horatius Steam shows me his Poltergeist.
It was a nice, amazing construction and within second I know this is a “must have”.
Now I decide to build one as a birthday gift for my lovely girlfriend.

AndyGadget has already build and post it here by Instructables.
I used his circuit diagram and his code for the PicAxe chip.
But I was able to make some powerful changes because I buy the new PicAxe 08M2 chip.
The memory of this chip is raised to 2048 bytes (256 bytes before)
For more read the PicAxe Website

Also don't miss to visit my website with more great projects under Steampunk-Design.


Parts you need:

1x PicAxe Breadboard and USB or Serial programming cable Set
1x PicAxe 08M2 Chip
1x IRF520
3x 1N4148
1x 1M Ohm
1x 22K Ohm
1x 10K Ohm
1x 220 ohm
1x 47uF 16V or more electrolytic capacitor
1x 0.1uF 16V or more ceramic or foil capacitor
1x Piezo Sounder used as Sounder EUKLIT 1130
1x Piezo Sounder used as Microphone EUKLIT 1091
1x 3Volt engine
2x LED
1x Switch
Battery holder for 4 AA batteries or a 6Volt Battery
Wooden Box

How it works:

After you switch the circuit on the PicAxe Chip listen on the I/O port 1 where the microphone is connected.
If you knock on the box the microphone change the vibration into voltage.
Voltage means high and the chip count the high.
If there no more counts over a selected time period the chip power up the engine on port I/O 4 in the same quantity and frequency.
If the chip counts 13 knock it play the Adams Family Theme.
At 20 knock it start a prank mode (do nothing for 30 seconds after that makes 50 knocks with random delay).

Step 1: PicAxe Chip

I've used a PicAxe 08M2 microcontroller which comes as a blank chip and needs to be programmed. To do this, you will need the Starter Set with the programming lead and the software for the programming editor. With this set you are able to create more amazing controlled things.

I also do only this first step into the big world of chip controlled projects.
If you have further questions don't be disappointed when I have no answer...

If you complete soldering your Breadboard (only two resistors a capacitor and chip holder) you can start with the programming.
I don't tell you how you complete your breadboard or install the program because with your starter kit you got already a complete instruction.

I only told you the modification on the code which I made in comparison to AndyGadget!

First of all I remove the programming part in the circuit because I use the Starter Kit and insert a complete working chip into the circuit.
If you also use a breadboard you can remove the audio socket from the circuit.

I try at least 5 different piezo sounders and most of them don’t work well as microphone or make a bad noise during play the sound.
I took a closer look on the piezo sounders and find out that the sounders which are able to use as a microphone has a small bandwidth on the sound.
But I want a clear and good speaker.
I decide to use a separate microphone and a speaker.
So I use the In/Out 1 for the microphone and the In/Out/Tune 2 for the Speaker.
With the new Chip with a bigger memory I was able to add this into the code.

Then I want a flashlight during the knocks.
I also add this code and use the In/Out 0

Because I have a heavy weight as knocking arm I expand the time the motor turns on.

Here you can download the my complete complete code for the PicAxe 08M2!

Step 2: Circuit

For my circuit I use a punch tape board?
Because everyone prefers different boards you should use your favourite and transfer the circuit layout on it.

On the picture you can see how I sort the parts and make the disconnection / gaps.
There are hundreds of options how you can place the single parts on the circuit.
Be sure that you connect every part AND in the right way!

I try many sounders but the best knocking input signal i got wit the EUKLIT 1091 Piezo Sounder.
As speaker the EUKLIT 1130 is perfect because he has a very lage bndwidth and a perfect sound.

Step 3: Engine

To get a real solid thump I use a standard 3 Volt modelling engine.
If this engine is powered with the 6 Volt of the circuit the engine got a big torque.

As connection to the knocking arm I use the inner tube of an insulating screw joint.
I stick the spindle into the tube and fix it with the screw.
As arm I took a solid metal sheet and make a big soldering point on the end.
At the other end I drill a hole to use the second screw of the tube and fix the arm in a right angle.
To mount the complete engine I use a plastic holder which you can buy in home stores to mount cable tubes.
To prevent that the arm drop completely down I use again a plastic part for fix cables in passenger cars.
This is the first time I use hot glue to mount parts!
I think it looks awful but later nobody can see these parts…
Later I close the lid with a black cloth.

Step 4: Wooden Box

You can use nearly all types of boxes.
If you choose a wooden box you get the best knocking sound.
The complete circuit is very small also the 3Volt engine.
The biggest part is the battery holder or Battery Pack.
My Box is 17cm x9cm x 11cm and I was able to fit all parts inside the lid with a hight of 3cm.
Only the battery holder is in the bottom.
I love this solution because my girlfriend can use this box also to storage other things.
On the right side i drill a hole for the speaker. This makes the sound louder.
I also drill some runes inside the lid which are flash during knocking.
If you want you can translate the text :-)

Cheers
Admiral Aaron Ravensdale

Over night I got the nice idea that it is also possible to use the I/O Port 0 for a electromagnetic lock and drive the LED with the engine power...
Then change the code in this way that you have 3 special numbers for the music, prank mode and unlock the lid!
Maybe someone will try it :-)




Admiral Aaron Ravensdale