This clock uses the classic video game Pong to tell the time. The 2 players automatically win and lose so their scores show the hours and minutes. It's not too hard to build and should cost less than $100. All the parts are easily available on eBay and the software code is free to download!
The clock can also show the time written in words such as "Ten Past Twelve", or with large or small digits. The date pops up every now and again too, printed out with a retro flashing cursor effect. A menu screen lets you choose the display mode, or you can have the clock pick a random mode every few hours.
The project uses 2 bright LED matrix panels from Sure Electronics (you can choose between red and green). An Arduino runs the main code and a DS1307 clock chip keeps time, even when the power is off.
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Signing UpStep 1: Parts List & Cost
So here's what you need...
2 x Model 2416 Red or Green LED Matrix Displays from Sure Electronics
You can get these from Sure's eBay store for $15 each: http://www.sure-electronics.net/ Make sure you get the new version of the display which is based on the Holtek HT1632C chip. You can tell the new displays as they have the controller chip and DIP switches on the back. (See pic). My clock is made with the 3mm LED display, but they also make a larger 5mm one.
1 x Arduino Uno / Duemilanove with ATmega 328 CPU
Th Arduino is the brains of the clock. It has a microprocessor that runs the main clock software, plus inputs and outputs we connect to the displays and other components. Ensure you get an Arduino with the ATmega 328 CPU. (Some older boards come with the ATmega 168 with doesn't have enough RAM). You can get Arduino's for about $30. Try Sparkfun Electronics or eBay.
1 x DS1307 Real Time Clock chip (RTC) and IC socket.
1 x Crystal Oscillator for the DS1307
1x 3.3v Coin Cell and holder - battery backup for the DS1307
I found all these bits on eBay bundled as a kit for $10.
1x Arduino Prototyping Shield
The prototyping board or ‘shield’ plugs onto the top of the Arduino making it easy to add components. It brings all the Arduino's input and output pins onto a circuit board that you can solder components to. Get a board which is designed for a chip to go on, i.e. one that brings each pin of the IC out to a solder pad you can connect wires to (see pic). Again places like Sparkfun or eBay are good sources for them. You should be able to pick one up for $15 - $20. If you don't like the idea of soldering, you could get a breadboard and jumper wire to build the circuit on temporarily instead.
1x 16 Pin IDC Socket
We solder this socket to the prototype board so we can plug the display ribbon cable in. They are a couple of dollars on eBay. If you aren't planning to solder, you don't need this.
2x ‘Push to Make’ Buttons.
These are used to set the time / change the display mode. You can get them for a few dollars.
1x USB Lead - Type "A to B"
This is needed to to program the Arduino, and then as a power lead for the clock.
1x Mains to USB Power Adapter
This is used to power the clock and you can pick them up for less than $10. Look for one with an output of 150mA or above.
2 x Model 2416 Red or Green LED Matrix Displays from Sure Electronics
You can get these from Sure's eBay store for $15 each: http://www.sure-electronics.net/ Make sure you get the new version of the display which is based on the Holtek HT1632C chip. You can tell the new displays as they have the controller chip and DIP switches on the back. (See pic). My clock is made with the 3mm LED display, but they also make a larger 5mm one.
1 x Arduino Uno / Duemilanove with ATmega 328 CPU
Th Arduino is the brains of the clock. It has a microprocessor that runs the main clock software, plus inputs and outputs we connect to the displays and other components. Ensure you get an Arduino with the ATmega 328 CPU. (Some older boards come with the ATmega 168 with doesn't have enough RAM). You can get Arduino's for about $30. Try Sparkfun Electronics or eBay.
1 x DS1307 Real Time Clock chip (RTC) and IC socket.
1 x Crystal Oscillator for the DS1307
1x 3.3v Coin Cell and holder - battery backup for the DS1307
I found all these bits on eBay bundled as a kit for $10.
1x Arduino Prototyping Shield
The prototyping board or ‘shield’ plugs onto the top of the Arduino making it easy to add components. It brings all the Arduino's input and output pins onto a circuit board that you can solder components to. Get a board which is designed for a chip to go on, i.e. one that brings each pin of the IC out to a solder pad you can connect wires to (see pic). Again places like Sparkfun or eBay are good sources for them. You should be able to pick one up for $15 - $20. If you don't like the idea of soldering, you could get a breadboard and jumper wire to build the circuit on temporarily instead.
1x 16 Pin IDC Socket
We solder this socket to the prototype board so we can plug the display ribbon cable in. They are a couple of dollars on eBay. If you aren't planning to solder, you don't need this.
2x ‘Push to Make’ Buttons.
These are used to set the time / change the display mode. You can get them for a few dollars.
1x USB Lead - Type "A to B"
This is needed to to program the Arduino, and then as a power lead for the clock.
1x Mains to USB Power Adapter
This is used to power the clock and you can pick them up for less than $10. Look for one with an output of 150mA or above.
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//set final characters
all they way up until the bit that says:
byte x = 0;
byte y = 0;
//until all counters are 0
Then replace it with lines that set the endchar array to the letters you wanted. E.g. if you did
endchar[1] = 'H';
endchar[2] = 'E';
endchar[3] = 'L';
endchar[4] = 'L';
endchar[5] = 'O';
endchar[6] = '!';
endchar[7] = '!';
endchar[8] = '!';
You should see the top line say "HELLO!!!" You can set the bottom line by setting endchar[9] to [15]
Hope this helps.
Nick
endchar[0] = 'H';
endchar[1] = 'E';
endchar[2] = 'L';
endchar[3] = 'L';
endchar[4] = 'O';
endchar[5] = '!';
endchar[6] = '!';
endchar[7] = '!';
I split the power using the proto shield, but you could also do the same with a breadboard for testing - this lets you plug things like the RTC chip and wires in. They are really simple to use and cost only a few pounds / dollars from eBay.
Hope this helps.
Nick
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/breakoutplus/ds1307rtc.html
Nick
I had few compilation fails, but Google helped me (about round which has already defined).
Thanks for your tutorial.
I'd like something that holds all the parts together and allows it to stand alone on a desk or something.
A couple of people have used 2 bit of acrylic with holes in the corners, then long threaded screws through them and the displays.
Nick
I'd like to connect everything together and allow it to stand on it's own like on a desk or something.
If you're not sure I'd suggest getting a breadboard and building it on there first.
Nick
I speak french
I live in Belgium
I'm a beginner in electronics and computer
I have a clock like this
I do not know how but you can maybe help me
If you still have a list of all the components needed to do (clock) for you send it to me please! and maybe the code lists which also needs
thank you very much
I speak french
I live in Belgium
I'm a beginner in electronics and computer
I have a clock like this
I do not know how but you can maybe help me
If you still have a list of all the components needed to do (clock) for you send it to me please! and maybe the code lists which also needs
thank you very much
First off thanks for the idea and the ible ;-)
I built one and I have a little question if you don't mind;
The clock works perfectly but it freezes up. If you do the IT repair (power off, power on) it works perfectly again.
Any ideas?
Oh, one more thing, for some reason the Uno is only pumping 3.4V DC from the 5V output, I found that I had to use the 5V supply to power the clock chip otherwise I got random code on the display and if your tried to change the clock time the number goes up and you can not select anything.
Put the 5V on and bob is your next door neighbour!
Thanks
Darren
Someone else had the same with the time freezing, he fixed it by replacing the DS1307, but it could be the power if your board is only outputting 3.4v. You might also have a bad connection to the clock chip. The LED on the arduino pin 13 should flash every second to let you know the clock chip is being read and ticking.
Make sure you are not powering the Uno from the round power jack and check the voltage from the 5v pin without anything plugged into the Uno. If it still reads low, maybe there is something up with your Arduino or power supply. If not maybe you have a short somewhere. Good luck!
Nick
In your ible you do state to use the USB to power it and not the round power socket, I had been told that you only had to worry about this on older ones where you had to select the power source? not sure about that but I had also been told that on the new model UNO it did not matter which way you power it.
Turns out it does :-)
I cut down a USB lead and powered the unit from that and so far we have no issues.
Should have done what you said in the first place!
Thanks for coming back to me on this.
Kind regards
Darren
if not pic then any microcontroller with which i dont have to use my arduino board
cz u get the microcontrollers for like 3-4 dollars but the arduino i have was quite expensive..
is there a way to use the arduino boot loader without the arduino board?
P.s thanks for replying man im in love with your clock best iv ever seen.
If you look at in terms of how much time you would spend on trying to get it working, and how much you value your time, it's probably a cheaper option of you just bite the bullet and get another arduino. They are a bit cheaper on eBay if you search.
I am diffinately building this clock and Ordered the parts already. Just wondering how the code thing is done..
Tks
Thank you!
Yes the USB adapter powers the clock. I plug it into the Arduino USB port and connect the display and clock chip power leads to the +5v and GND connectors on the the Arduino.
Don't use the round power jack on the Arduino if you wire it up this way.
Cheers
Nick
Nick
Alex
Glad you decided to have a go building one - good luck!
It depends how comfortable you are with coding to make it 12 hour. The 'proper' coding way would be to program the DS1307 register with the correct bit to set it to 12 hour. The datasheet for the chip is here: http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/DS1307.pdf
You'd need to make a change to DS1307.h in the libraries folder, to set this bit, and make tweaks in the main code where it assumes the time is 24 hour.
The easier way would be to just fiddle the number after you get it from the DS1307, then you'd just have to play with the main code.
Looking forward to seeing the video!
I got all the parts in and put it together using a breadboard first. It all works and looks stunning! Thanks for the great program. I am about to solder it together when I get some time. I was wondering how you mounted yours inside a case? I want to put mine in a fancy case and wanted to see what you did to yours.
By the way, those larger 5mm displays work wonderfully like you said they should. The one trick is it seems like they have to go in a certain order. I know that sounds odd but I had the first one connected up with the right switch on in the back and it displayed the image incorrectly. All worked well after switching the displays out and the switches again. Such a great project and I hope you win. I hope to post a video as soon as it is mounted.
Alex
I haven't built a case for mine yet - I was thinking of an opaque perspex box, something simple. But getting one made is expensive so I have't gotten round to it.
Be great to see a video with the 5mm displays.
Do able if you are ok tinkering with the code!
You could probably swap the arduino for the new version with ethernet built in.
You could reuse the existing code, but would need to add in more code - e.g. the ethernet libraries and code to get the RSS text, format it, and then scroll it.
Nick
Atari seems a little bit... off-the-radar these days... I bet most kids don't even know they made Pong.