Instructables

Poor Man's Surveyor Transit

Step 3: Going to work...

Picture of Going to work...
18.jpg

To use the transit you start by placing the tripod on a fairly level space.  If necessary you may have to raise or lower a leg or two to compensate for uneven ground.  With the transit solid on the tripod and fairly level use the three eybolts to adjust the transit so your measurements are taken properly.  Direction is determined by the compass.

A measuring pole can be made from a long pipe or board. I made a 11’ pole by ripping a scrap 2x4 and splicing it together. For the measurement I tacked an old tape measure on it. Then I made a slide so my helper could mark the measurement with the slide if I cannot see the numbers on the rule clearly. The pole turned out a bit heavy so I’ll probably make a shorter one with something lighter.
Using a transit requires a rudimentary understanding of grades, compass direction and measurement. With a bit of patience and work you can plot out the grade of a piece of land accurate enough to determine drainage or how much effort it will take to level the property. Sure saves a lot of money on surveyors and equipment!

 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up
lawrencrj1 year ago
I liked this -- I think there is room for improvement without adding much expense.

The short coming of this design (in my opinion) is that it seems that you need to set it to level after it changes direction because you only have one level indicator on your leveling board -- so if you turn the platform to a 90 degree direction from a direction in which the scope was level, it could be (and probably WOULD be) out of level in the new direction you are shooting and would need to be leveled again.

So instead of having the two boards that hold the scope mounted directly to the leveling board it might better be attached to another rectangular board that pivots on a shaft that is "exactly" perpendicular to the leveling board. ( A pipe flange with a short nipple screwed into it should serve the purpose. The mounting board would need to be thick enough so that using a drill press the hole bored perpendicular through it would not have much play. The hole should be drilled with an adjustable bit so that it's only slightly larger in diameter than the pipe nipple it rotates on. You would want enough friction between the wood and the nipple so that the scope assembly would stay put wherever you turn it to but not enough to make it hard to turn. The leveling board would need two levels perpendicular to each other rather than a single level. Perhaps a couple little line levels that you would calibrate while the leveling board were placed on a level table. It would be a little tricky to level with three leveling bolts and two levels at right angles, so a single round (bulls eye) bubble level would be a better choice if you are going to have three leveling bolts rather than four. (Four leveling screws has problems of its own, so three with a round bubble level would be better choice.)

Your use of the dome shaped fixture was very clever and what I liked best about your design. I plan on using your idea to build my own with the "improvements" I suggested. I think I will use my little flash light that has a red laser beam rather than a scope and use it on a cloudy day or at dusk, so that the laser beam on the pole will be easier to see.

BTW -- a simple way to see if two points are on the same level is to use a long water hose filled with water. lower the high end very slowly while keeping the water from running out the stationary end. When the water starts running out the end, then it is at the same level as the end you are holding. Air pressure will keep much water from running out the end you are lowering, so you need to intermittantly let air into the stationary end as you lower the far end of the hose you should have a bottle of water to keep the hose full when the two ends are close to level. When both ends are at the same level and filled with water you will see the water about a half inch or less from the opening of the hose. As you pour a little water into one end it will flow out the other end in the same volume you added (and with a surprisingly short time lag.) This has the advantage of not requiring a line of sight when there are obstacles like trees or brush between the two points. It is a much slower process than using a transit -- but you don't have to build anything tp get an error of no more than an inch.
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!