Don't want to buy a 200 dollar heating base?
Build one for pennies! (free if you go dumpster diving)
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials and tools
- Toaster oven (cylindrical, rod-like, non bent, heating elements)
- Sheet metal (I used old brass door kick protectors)
- Outlet plug (old extension cord or whatever)
- Light dimmer
- Wiring nuts (or soldering gun)
- Liquid electrical tape (optional)
- metal pipes (optional)
Tools:
- Garden Shears (or anything that cuts sheet metal)
- Dremel or drill
- Pliers







































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(A step-down transformer will supply isolation, as well as reducing the voltage.)
I think for a strip heater you only want about 2 or 3 watts per inch, so if you use a 12 or 24 v transformer and a resistance wire, you could adapt power supply designs for hot wire cutters.
An adjustable hot wire cutter power supply can be really simple---basically a 12 or 24V transformer on a dimmer, or just plugged into a router speed control.
Stainless steel fishing leader makes a good resistance wire for a hot wire cutter, and it's dirt cheap. ($1.50-2.00 for 30 feet at a bait and tackle place.) It'd probably be good for this, too. (For hot wire cutters, it's better than nichrome.)
You need a transformer that can put out several amps. Your average wall-wart can't do that, but maybe a 6- or 10-amp car battery charger would be about right.
This post over on rcgroups, about wires & power supplies for hot wire cutters, may be helpful:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6769158&postcount=22
That's from this thread on hot wire cutters:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=628704
If you get the wire length and gauge right, you could use a fixed-voltage power supply with no dimmer or speed control. (Maybe a car charger, or maybe one of the converted ATX bench power supplies in some Instructables.)
You can make small adjustments to the heat by varying the length of wire that you actually electrify.
An easier way in DIY situations might be to build a jig or former the required shape, and use a hot air paint stripping gun, applying localised heat and working your plexigalss around the Jig.
You must clamp it in position and allow it to cool completely before removing it, If it is anything like rigid foam it will hold its shape.
Thai plastwood have a series of guides to working with plastic. Check out: www.thai-plastic-wood.com/plastic-uses.html
http://www.briskheat.com/p-152-rh-plastic-bending-strip-heater.aspx.
Over 60 years of flexible surface heating experience.
if you don't want to spend a minimum of $100 US.
Check out my article on a small (12 x 20 inch) vacuum forming oven for under $30 using a two-burner hot plate and disposable aluminum pans:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621858
Safety concern, tho: Doesn't this mean 110V (or 220, in Europe) will appear across the heating elements, making you, the user, potentionally... toast..? :p
Just remember - if you touch the heating element by itself, it'll burn. But if you touch it w/ live power across it, it could kill you - not smart.
http://www.austinpcmods.com/how-to-story--1.html
He sunk the heating element into the wood, which works very well as you can just place the plastic flat on the surface.