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Step 3Making the bending tool or coiling mandrel
This tool is best made in advance by an adult. Checking out how the tool is used in the video in the next step can help illustrate how it should be set up.
The short screw and the cylinder shape are put near one end of the piece of wood. The gap between both should be equal to the diamater of the brass or copper tube. The position of the screw along the circumference of the cylinder is not critical. However, if you do it as in the second picture, you will be able to mark out the "starting position" for the bending on the long end of the piece of the wood (see last picture).
I find the easiest way is to put in the short screw first and the cylinder second. This way it is easier to use the 3mm tube to measure the gap. You can also check the starting position of the tube will be parallel with the piece of wood. You can glue the cylinder provisionary and attach it firmly with a the long screw from the back. If your cylinder shape is hollow you can attach it by pouring hot melt glue inside. You can add a screw from the back, into the glue mass, but that is probably not necessary.
If a point of any of the screws comes out of the wood, do take measures to avoid anyone hurting him or her self at the sharp edge (use a shorter screw or grind down).
Mark a line on the piece of wood 9,5 cm (for 50 cm tubes) from the cylinder as "starting position" foor the bending.
The short screw and the cylinder shape are put near one end of the piece of wood. The gap between both should be equal to the diamater of the brass or copper tube. The position of the screw along the circumference of the cylinder is not critical. However, if you do it as in the second picture, you will be able to mark out the "starting position" for the bending on the long end of the piece of the wood (see last picture).
I find the easiest way is to put in the short screw first and the cylinder second. This way it is easier to use the 3mm tube to measure the gap. You can also check the starting position of the tube will be parallel with the piece of wood. You can glue the cylinder provisionary and attach it firmly with a the long screw from the back. If your cylinder shape is hollow you can attach it by pouring hot melt glue inside. You can add a screw from the back, into the glue mass, but that is probably not necessary.
If a point of any of the screws comes out of the wood, do take measures to avoid anyone hurting him or her self at the sharp edge (use a shorter screw or grind down).
Mark a line on the piece of wood 9,5 cm (for 50 cm tubes) from the cylinder as "starting position" foor the bending.
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