Step 1: Background and How it Works
Advantages: Very compact and portable, lightweight without the ice, no environmentally not-so-friendly chlorofluorocarbons, hydrogenated chlorofluorocarbons, or hydrofluorocarbons, very quiet, and operates off 12VDC, AKA a cigarette lighter. The only disadvantage is that it the ice will melt after 30-60 minutes of operation, depending on the size of your cooler. However, it was built for an EV, so we are only ever out for an hour or two maximum, and the ice lasts longer when it's not running. The third image on this step shows the operation. Have I convinced you to build one yet?
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I don't recall ever hearing any numbers, but Dad was insistent that the interior temperature was much lower, AND I do recall that the "radiant" heat sensed on my head and skin was reduced to nothing. It worked great.
However, one serious negative did surface. When the Aluminum foil began to deteriorate and Dad removed it to apply another fresh layer, we discovered that either the adhesive [I doubt} or the Aluminum had caused TOTAL failure of the white paint on the roof, and the entire area was RUSTED BADLY!!!!!
The point is that "rcg40" is 100% correct about protecting a vehicle's roof from direct sunlight contact. And the effect increases tremendouly IF there is an "air gap" [allows NO conduction of any heat] between the reflective panel and the vehicle roof.
It also does now add moisture to the air.
This is because as the warm air flows over the ice, it will condense water from the air onto the ice. It will keep doing that until the ice melts.
Pelter:
You could use a pelter to keep the water frozen a bit. You would need to attach the plate to the floorboard, likely replaceing a section with an aluminum plate.
Fins on the other side(under the car) help extract the heat to the outside air.
Now, this doesnt make it a GOOD Idea. You have to power your peltier from a battery. This is the same battery you are using for power. It also means that
you are in effect using a peltier for air conditioning. This isn't the best use of your electricity.
This is a fine idea. Use your already efficient freezer at home. On a hot day, take along the cooler. If you have an icebox at work, you can "Fill up" again for the ride home.
So 90% of the time, you are not towing around equipment you do not need. You are also using an existing cooling agent. No need to reinvent the wheel.
The subject system does NOT add moisture to the air flowing through the evaporator core used as a heat exchanger. The air to be cooled is NOT allowed to contact the cooling water medium flowing througn the heat exchanger. Thus no evaporation into the cooled air stream.
IF, and I emphasize IF, the lid on the ice chest does not fit tightly, then a very TINY amount of air circulation MIGHT occur resulting in a very slight humidity transfer to the interior of the cooled space, but that would be negligable.
Although several later posts have jumped your comment about use of a Peltier device, your post specifically mention heat sinking the hot heat sink of the Peltier device to the exterior sheet metal of the vehicle, and I agree with you, and disgree with your detractors in that such use [insulated by the vehicle's floor insulation and carpeting] would not contribute to heat gain inside the vehicle.
I also agree with you that the use of a Peltier device would be expensive, unnecessary "over-kill" in the effort to cool the passenger compartment of a vehicle.
At this link is an interesting chart showing just how good water is for this purpose, compared to other substances:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enthalpy_of_fusion
When I finish these scholarship essays, I shall add some information to the Instructable, since it appears that no one can be bothered to read the comments.
If you thought my comment was not in your area of concern , why did youi even bother to reply to me and then to inappropriatly belittle my 'on point' and eruditious contribution? Cool your heels and just walk away .. That'd be the honorable thing to do.
You replied to a comment thread between myself and robbied, which was about the feasibility of using a peltier junction to cool the ice further. Your comment did not seem to relate to anything on this page, so I simply assumed that it was a disjointed response to the comment to which you had replied.
International Chemical Safety Sheet:
http://www.inchem.org/documents/icsc/icsc/eics0021.htm
At our own lab we get tons of reagents, stored on dry ice. I have always wanted to take this stuff with me to our countryhouse for cooling food, but have not figures out how to transport it in our car safely :D. Maybe in the trunk, with the trunk lid open a ittybitty...
For years, I have transported "dry ice" inside my vehicle routinely by placing it inside a cheap Styrofoam cooler, with a vent tube to the outside of the vehicle.
I drilled a small hole in the lid, inserted a piece of aquarium air pump tubing which was long enough to reach outside via a window, and then sealed the tubing to the lid using a small amount of adhesive from a Hot Glue Gun.
I then used duct tape [but any tape would work] to temporarily seal the crack between the lid and the cooler. As the dry ice sublimed to CO2 gas, the slight pressure would force the gas outside the vehicle via the vent tube.
Again, thank you for the clarification and data.
To dserhal and ALL:
The ICEWATER serves two purposes. Naturally, the ice first acts as a coolent by taking heat from the water, BUT...
More importantly, the cooled water acts as a medium to tranfer the heat from the heater core heat exchanger to the ice water reservoir, and the cooled water back to the exchanger.
The subliming CO2 gas would not be as efficient a transfer medium as the ice water.