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Portable 12V Air Conditioner --Cheap and easy!

Step 12Tales from the Comments

9 April 2010: I'm adding this step to address some of the comment subjects of the comments...with 384 comments and counting, it's not nearly as easy to just read through them.

Dry ice instead of water ice

First, a clarification: water ice isn't 32°F, it's whatever the temperature of the freezer is, anything below 32degF...just like how the steel on your car can be 10°F on a cold day, or 100°F on a hot day. Dry ice can be any temperature below -109°F. Since it is much colder, id would theoretically put out colder air. The two main problems with this idea are:
1) Dry ice has a lower specific heat capacity than water ice, so while it is colder, it won't last as long.
2) Dry ice sublimates to CO2, which, in a confined space, will at best impair judgment, and at worst cause loss of consciousness. Driving a car requires being alert. I highly discourage using dry ice.


Peltier Junctions

Seems like a good idea, I know--add 12V and that little plate gets frosty cold. But you have to consider the net movement of heat. All that a peltier does is create a heat differential...a difference in temperature between the two sides. It does this by moving the heat from one side to the other. If you put a peltier inside the car, it won't cool anything down, because the same amount of heat that is removed to make one side cool is released on the other side right back into the car. The only way this could possibly work is if it was mounted so that the heat was released outside the car.

Isn't this just a swamp cooler?

Uhhhhhhhhhh....NO. A swamp cooler works by blowing air over wet stuff (straw, wool, air, you name it), which evaporates the water. Since evaporation is an endothermic process (splash alcohol on your hand and feel how much it cools as it evaporates), the air is cooled down---BUT is also wet and full of all the water that just evaporated, making it only suitable for places that are hot and dry. This air conditioner is simple heat transfer--heat is transferred out of the air into the ice water. Since the ice water is cold, vapor in the air condenses on the coils, so it actually pulls water out...making it much more suitable for humid Kansas summers.


Ye salty sea dog!

Using salt water or alcohol to lower the freezing point, so it will be colder...not really. The temperature is determined by how cold your freezer is. Oh, and salt water is corrosive and will OM NOM NOM your heater core.

Liquid Nitrogen

Er...for the same cost, you could buy a new car...which has air conditioning...and doesn't involve frostbite...

Let's take this Outinside

Remember the energy flow. If you freeze the ice in your own freezer, all the heat that is pulled out of the ice, and then some, is released into your house from the coils in the back of the freezer. You could use this to cool that hot bedroom, but the house as a whole will be warmed.

OH NOEZ T3H POLAR BEARS

Yeah, yeah, it takes energy to freeze water, yada yada yada. If you can't handle your freezer running a bit extra, then quit whining and roll down the window.

Using the existing core

Yes, you can hook it up to run cold water through the original heater core so it blows through the original ducts. The whole point of this was to be portable, though. If you want a more permanent installation, have at it.

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12 comments
Sep 5, 2011. 1:27 AMironjudas says:
Dry ice cant be put into water it will dissolve in seconds. Btw, do you need to keep supplying it with ice?
Apr 22, 2012. 11:02 AMpddonovan2011 says:
I have an S10! I would put the cooler in the toolbox, immediately behind the cab, and run the tubes into the cab with major insulation on both. Use a small high performance oil cooler in the cab and a cheap one in the cooler as exchanger. Use a small (One quart) plastic container as a surge tank, put a pin hole in the cap and leave two inches for sloshing. Fill with 50/50 Coolant and water, place exchanger on the bottom of the cooler and cover with dry ice! Cooler is outside the cab, cooling radiator is lower than the cooler (easier on the pump, a smaller one could be used and in the cab, making more room for dry ice!) Place the cooler in a box with three inches around it and pour in expanding foam to hyper insulate the cooler! I think this would make a really cold A/C unit!

This is a really great Instructable! It really got my creative juices flowing, thank you so much for that!

In the teardrop, if you are camping next to a stream, you can use two long hoses and a funnel to catch the water flow, divert it to the Teardrop where the pump can take over and pump it up into the teardrop. The teardrop is cooled and then the water is returned to the stream! Call it a "Gone Green A/C Cooler!" Hey, come to think of it, that would supply the Teardrop with a source of water that could quickly be purified using a ceramic filter for consumption!
Jul 22, 2011. 10:43 PMsangreye says:
Instructa326 I think I might have a solution for our sloshing water problem. Use two heater cores. You will have to make a drain for the water that condenses around the heater core exposed to the air. The ice can be filled higher in the cooler, the use of alcohol in the heater core closed system would allow a lower temperature to be reached, and the closed ice chest would prolong the life of the ice. Granted the end result of heat exchange would be the same but with the additional ice and the benefit of having a closed chest might make it worth the effort.
Jun 1, 2011. 11:42 PMBen-Jamin!!! says:
If this setup were modified to be an evaporative cooler instead of a heat exchanger, it would be quite useful in a drier climate, and run for much longer. You would have to replace the heat exchanger with an open pad (perhaps a whole-house humidifier pad?), and then add some kind of catch pan for the falling water. You would need no ice, so you could fill the entire container with water.
May 31, 2011. 9:41 PMBednarz says:
I know this is late but I'm new...sorry about that! I think that Dave92040 was getting at the fact that, by adding alcohol to lower the freezing point, you actually begin moving water through your heater core that is cooler than 32 degrees. Of course, your ice won't last as long that way. Salt = bad though, no question there.

I am curious though, how much longer would the cooling effect last if the lid were closed?

Let's say you mount the heater core outside of the cooler, leaving the lid intact except for hoses in and out (via split rear window, perhaps?). This way the ambient air isn't being pulled over the ice and melting it faster.

With this in mind, you could potentially put the cooler in the truck bed, and add an inline peltier device to cool the water in the return line, exchanging the heat with the great outdoors and helping your icebox to last longer...and making more legroom for your passenger!
Feb 22, 2011. 11:53 PMzclark says:
as a idea for a power source why not go with photo cell to power the unit?
(no need to plug into 12v power than!
Aug 13, 2010. 1:20 PMinstructa326 says:
I'm seriously considering this project for my pickup with a dead ac (5 years!) but what concerns me is the water spililng out while the truck is running, your instructions mention the cooler handles propping open the lid far enough to allow air flow inside. So is this not a cause for concern or are you not running the a/c was you drive, just cooling the interior before you pull the ignition???
Jul 23, 2010. 2:05 AMnaman.shah7 says:
that's correct! dude that is smart, thanks a lot.
Jul 22, 2010. 5:45 PMDave92040 says:
Ice water is 32°F. No more. No less. When it's all ice, it might have a lower temp, but as soon as you introduce the liquid water, the mixture will reach equilibrium at 32°F. After all the ice has melted, then the water temp will increase to ambient. Thermometers are calibrated in a distilled water/ice bath that has reached equilibrium.

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I'm a geeky college student without enough free time or funding to do most of these Instructables...sigh... Topeka is my hometown. I'm at school in Wichita about 80% of the time, but I like Topeka be...
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