In this Instructable, I'm not going to explain the rules of the game. There are so many different ways to play that you'll have to decide which version works best for you. Search any of the above names of the game on your favorite search engine and you'll find more than enough ways to play. Chances are, if you found this Instructable, you've already played somewhere else and will stick with the rules you first learned.
Step 1: Materials & Tools
Qty 4 - 1-1/2" PVC Pipe cut to 2.5' (30"). I had an employee at Home Depot cut a 10' long piece into four equal length pieces.
Qty 2 - 1-1/2" PVC Coupling
Qty 2 - 1-1/2" PVC to 1-1/2" Thread Fitting
Qty 2 - 2" to 1-1/2" PVC Reducer
Qty 2 - 1-1/2" Pipe Thread Metal Flanges
Qty 2 - Boards to act as bases. I was able to find 2 pieces of pressure treated 2" x10" x 24" for $1 each in the cull (scrap) bin.
Qty 8 - #14 x 1-1/2" Flat Head Screws. These came in packs of two at Home Depot.
Qty 1 - PVC Primer (Purple Can)
Qty 1 - PVC Cement (Gold Can)
Qty 2 - Beer Bottle. I've played with 16oz plastic bottles (with some rice inside for weight) that work a lot better than glass. No worrying about breaking a bottle and it hurts a LOT less when it lands on your feet.
Qty 1 - Frisbee, of course.
Drill and drill bits
Framing Square (optional)
Table or Mitre Saw (optional if you need to cut your own wood or PVC pipe)
Sunscreen if you're a redhead building this at noon on a 100+ °F day in July.
Step 2: Prime the PVC Parts
You'll prime both ends of one pipe and just one end of the second pipe.
Also prime the inner 1-1/2" diameter of the reducer, threaded adapter, and ONE half of the 1-1/2" coupling.
Apply the PVC Primer per the directions on the can. Remember that the stuff smells awful and is very nauseating, so do this in a well ventilated area like outside.
Step 3: Combine PVC Parts
Apply PVC Cement following the directions on the can. Mine said to apply the cement to the outer diameter of the pipe first, then the inner diameter of the fittings, then press together with a bit of a twisting motion to get the pipe to seat all the way into the bottom of the fitting.
Pipe with both ends primed:
- Cement the 1-1/2" threaded adapter on one end
- Cement the 1-1/2" coupling to the other end.
Pipe with ONE end primed:
- Cement the 2" to 1-1/2" reducer onto the primed end.
Step 4: Build the Base
This is a pretty simple and straightforward step. All you're doing is attaching the pipe flange to the wooden base board.
I went a bit overboard (I have Engineer's Disease) and used a framing square to get pretty close to the center of the board and to give myself alignment lines for attaching the flange. You could just as easily eyeball the flange in the center and mark your mounting holes with a pencil.
After marking your mounting holes, drill a pilot hole for each and then install. I used a 5/16" drill bit for the #14 screws. Just remember that you want the pilot hole to be about the same size as the inner shank of the screw (even a bit smaller) so there's material for the threads of the screw to grab onto.
Step 5: Assemble the Pieces
First, screw the lower half of the pole into the pipe flange on the base. Then press the upper pipe (with the 2" to 1-1/2" reducer on top) into the 1-1/2" coupling at the top of the lower pipe. Make sure the pipe is snug, but don't over do it. The idea is that the three pieces come back apart for easy transportation.
Feel free to paint or otherwise decorate your new Beer Frisbee poles! They look a bit shabby with purple primer poking through at the cemented joints.