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So, I do a lot of sawing, and a bandsaw would be a nice thing for what I do, which is make props and replicas. A bandsaw would be nice, but I don't have $300 laying around so, I decided to make a device that converts my jigsaw into a mini bandsaw to get straight cuts on thinner wood. I'd been kicking this idea around for a while, and recently I've joined instructables and gotten into the contests. And when I heard that if I could make a creative portable workstation and get a chance to win a 3d printer , or CNC miller, I revived this idea, and got to work. Above, you can see the final product as well as a sheet with my original design, which is fairly simple: two boards sandwiching the shoe of a jigsaw in place and turning it into a table saw and mini bandsaw. The idea was simple enough, so I went to work and took pictures along the way so I could enter it in the contest. So here it is, my portable device that I call the jigsaw2Bandsaw. I started making it specifically for the contest, but in the end, I've actually found that this is a remarkably effective tool, and I am proud to add this to my workshop. So, here's how to build it... -----You will need: A 1 inch thick board for the base, (I used some weird fake cherry-laminated particleboard I found laying around), a thin board for the top,(I cut up a dry erase board), 4 steel 14 inch long bolts, a jigsaw, and a drill.

Step 1: Cut the Base Board

First, measure the width of the area between the shoe (gray plate) and the body. Then, cut a slot out so the saw will slide in smoothly. I cut an angled opening at the end so it's easier to slide the saw through.

Step 2: Install the Legs

First, cut out a hole slightly smaller than the bolts itself. Then, turn the bolt in the hole while pushing down to screw the bolt in. This takes quite a bit of elbow grease, but you'll notice that by doing this, you're creating screw ridges to secure the bolt with. This secures the bolt perfectly so the legs will stay put. Twist the nut for the bolt onto it, then twist the bolt into the hole you just made threads in. Twist the bolts just so that the ends only stick out on the other side a bit more than the jigsaw shoe. Do this with each bolt.

Step 3: Add the Top Plate

Saw a piece a bit larger than the baseboard from the dry-erase board or whatever thin board you have. Then, determine where the jigsaw blade will come through and cut a hole out for it. Glue the ends of the legs to the board with liquid nails.

Step 4: Finishing Touches

Tape the corners down with some duct tape to secure it in addition to the liquid nails. Sand down the edges and put some felt pads on the leg bottoms so you don't scratch up your shop. : )

Step 5: How to Use the Workstation

So now you have a neat little device to turn your jigsaw into a mini bandsaw. Great! But how do you use it? First, take out the blade from your jigsaw then slide it in until it's secure. Then, re-install the blade into the saw. Keeping clear of the blade, pull the trigger and press the speed lock as shown. Now you can carefully feed your wood through the blade and get cleaner, more even cuts than you can get with just a jigsaw! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and please vote for me for the portable workstations contest if you can! Thanks for viewing! Watch the demo video of my design here: http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=h_rkhMDT_Og

<p>You just made a scroll saw, not a band saw. A band saw uses a blade that is a continuous band that keeps moving in one direction. A jigsaw and a scroll saw use reciprocating blades.</p><p>Still, good job. Many of us have made these in the past, and your write up is a good one. It should help others get into more complicated hobbies without having to invest in a large, expensive, and more limited use tool.</p>
<p>I would not use one of those jigsaws upside down, for the sawdust going into the blade mechanism. Anyway it's a good experiment, but very dangerous for your fingers!</p>
<p>My dad's friend calls it the &quot;finger getter.&quot; But, trust me, It's not that dangerous when used correctly and with proper respect for the tool itself.</p>
<p>great! ;-)</p>
<p>Good work, I'm glad it's working for you. I made something similar a couple of years ago, unfortunately the cuts are not straight because the blade is not rigid, moves with the piece you are working on. I didn't use it much really.</p>
Minor add, big safety improvement. Add a foot activated switch to the saw cord, dead man style is best. If there's a problem, just step back. When everything stops, fix the problem, step on the switch, go back to work.
That's really neat! And that could be a great thing not just for this, but for free handing it and other power tools as well. Thanks for the info. On a personal note, what do you think of the actual idea and device itself?
Over all very good.
That's a good idea. I'm not much of an electrical builder though, so I don't think I could do that. Good idea though.
No problem. The deadman switches I'm talking about just plug in between power and the saw cord. If you want to free hand, just unplug the switch.
You can buy a ready made one at harbor freight or a scroll saw site.
<p>I also wanted to make this a &quot;temporary conversion-device.&quot; This way, I can freehand my jigsaw if I want, so I don't want to add a dead pedal to my saw.</p>
<p>Cool idea. There is a commercial version too: https://www.rockwelltools.com/en-US/bladerunner_wall_mount.aspx</p>
<p>Wow, that's a cool saw! Thanks for the link. </p>
<p>Nice work,I used a similar jig with a blade guide before i bought a bandsaw. I think adding a blade guide will greately improve the cutting quality of your jig. The balde guide can easily be made from a plank with just a smal &quot;cut&quot; the same width and length as the blade. This plank you can mount on top of your table, so that when the blade is in the lowest position, it barely stay inside &quot;cut&quot;. Another benefit it wil also make your jig a bit safer. It is best to make the guide removable besauce of wear. and also if you need to cut large slabs.</p><p><br>The disadvantages of balde guide: slightly lower thickness capacity, harder to see where you are cutting. limitis the width of the pieces. Hope you understood me. HH</p>
<p>I see what you're saying and that's a good suggestion. Unfortunately, I need this to cut 2 inch thick wood which it just barely does now, so adding a blade guide would make it impossible for me to continue. But thank you for the suggestion!</p>

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Bio: I'm a 17 year old guy that has always enjoyed building stuff and aspires to be an industrial engineer in the future.
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