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This is the culmination of a few projects to reorganize all my pedals in a portable case.  The requirements for my board are as follows:
-Fits min 3 pedals + tuner
-Portability
-Powered, without daisy chaining a crummy wallwart
-Bypassable
-Integrated channel switch
-Spend the least amount of $$$ as possible

Powered pedalboards from powertrain or other companies sell for over $200 online, even an isolated supply can be over $200 on its own.  Alot of the components for this were found around the house and the total price was around $80.  The case is an old poker case, the channel selector/effects bypass and power supply are built from scratch with a switchable 12v/18v output and 4 isolated 9v outs.

****WARNING/DISCLAIMER****
The power supply portion of this project deals with mains supply (120v) voltages.  If you have little electronics knowledge/experience DO NOT build the power supply, you will be working with voltages that can be lethal and if setup inappropriately can wreck your gear.  You undertake this build at your own discretion and I will not be held liable for any injuries or damage to your gear.

With that out of the way, let's have some fun!



Step 1: Parts!

Alot of tools and parts I used had been sitting around or were snatched from other devices as required, I'll try to make the list as complete as possible by breaking it up into 3 parts:

The Board:
Some kind of latching box or board that you will be building on, many suitcases can be modified to work. I've used an old poker chip case, it is somewhat limiting in its size and depth (can't fit a wah or big EHX pedals in there) but it's compact, lightweight, and strong enough to keep everything in one place.
-Velcro (about 3-4ft)

The Control Center:
Mine consists of an fx loop (send/return), bypass and channel switch with an LED indicator:
-Project box (I used an old hot chocolate tin, cut to size)
-5 mono input jacks.  FX Send, FX Return, Input, Output, Channel switch
 **Some amps require a stereo TRS jack for channel switch, be sure to get the right circuit before wiring this up**
-2 DPDT switches (1 latching stomp and 1 toggle).  Almost set it up with 1 stomps but it was too cluttered, and I don't have to bypass often.
-1 LED & 470ohm resistor for the channel indicator
  ** Check out Beavis Audio for a variety of looper/bypass schematics with indicators and mixer controls if you want to really do it up**

The Supply:
-Project enclosure
-5xdc jacks
-18v transformer (300ma)
-4x 1N4001 diodes or 1x Bridge rectifier
-3x 100uf capacitors, +30v
-5x 10uf capacitors, +30v
-3x 1k ohm resistors (1/4 watt)
-1x 470ohm resistor for LED
-3x LM7809 voltage regulators
-1x LM317 voltage regulator (for a 12/18v output)
-2x SPDT toggle switches
-1x LED &Bezel
-1x 120v 3prong power input
-1x 100ma fuse (used a resetting 'pico' fuse from small bear)
-various nuts and bolts to mount the transformer and power input
-DC power cables for the power cable runs (ebay)
-1/4" hookup jacks for the cable runs (ebay)
**Special thanks to matthegamer463 for the schematic and design influence**

Tools:
-Drill w/ various bits (Biggest I have is 1/4", something bigger would be helpful)
-Dremmel or rotary tool (especially if you don't have anything bigger than 1/4" drill bit) 
   -Cutting wheel
   -small/med size grinding stone
   -diamond burr
-Wrenches, adjustable is best
-Soldering iron (solder, hookup wire etc)
-Screw drivers
-Epoxy
-Gorrila/duct Tape


<p>Hi there! Found this by googling it. I was a bit disappointed to find out that while it says &quot;Isolated Power Supply&quot; in the title, it's not in fact isolated. Maybe you're using the word to describe something something else about the case design, but isolated typically means that there are transformers per individual plug out. </p>
<p>not sure it makes a difference. if the 120V goes through a transformer all devices supplied downstream of that are &quot;isolated&quot;. a transformer for each pedal would be expensive, add no additional benifit. a circuit is either isolated or not. canitbe &quot;more&quot; isolated. please explain.</p>
<p>What Veeence is referring to is that all of the outputs grounds are isolated from one another so there is no way for noise to travel between the grounds(pedals) that they are attached too. This is how all Voodoo Labs, Walrus Audio, etc power supplies are. If all of the outputs share the same ground, the noise from digital pedals will still be present in your rig. Most noise on pedal boards comes from clock noise on digital pedals, not the AC mains. Given all of the pedals in your pictures are analog, you won't notice any problems, but if you put in a Strymon, TC Electronic, Eventide, or Line 6 pedal, you will get clock noise unless the power outputs are fully isolated. Hope that helps clarify it.</p>

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