Introduction: Portable Retro Hi-Fi Speaker

Picture of Portable Retro Hi-Fi Speaker

The electronics for this project are now available as a kit from Jameco electronics!  Includes a blank PCB and all components/connectors required to build this project. 

DISCLAIMER:  Batteries can be dangerous.  They can deliver high current if shorted out and start fires.  If they are improperly charged it is possible they can explode.  Please do not attempt anything that you are not familiar with and do not feel safe doing, and double-check your work.  I am not responsible for any damage or injury due to misuse of these instructions.

Portable audio is a pain.  Its either a huge boombox that eats D batteries like M&Ms, a bad-sounding iPod dock, or a virtually silent mini speaker set.  None of these will do for a true music lover.  Those who are so inclined and adequately skilled can build one that meets their exacting demands with relative ease.  Now you'll be all set for a trip to the beach or camping. 

A couple years ago while building an amplifier project I accidentally burned out the main driver from a set of Minimus 7 bookshelf speakers.  Radioshack has sold this pair of speakers in various forms for over 30 years, and they are well known for their great sound and low price.  I was quite bummed out that I was left with only one, collecting dust in my storage room, unlikely to ever be of use to me as a Hi-Fi speaker again. 

Then I was inspired to turn it into a portable Hi-fi speaker by installing a rechargeable battery, charger circuit and amplifier.  I had most of the parts needed lying around and managed to put the device together for only $15 additional costs.  A thrifty shopper could probably do the project for around $60.  Great value indeed!

In this guide, I will show you how I converted this speaker into a battery powered portable mini Hi-Fi system.  It works great!

Step 1: Parts and Materials

Picture of Parts and Materials
Heres the list of goodies you'll need, and some details about them.
  • A bookshelf speaker.  You're going to want something that will work well on only 10-20 watts of power, otherwise the battery life will be very, very short.
  • Sealed Lead Acid battery.  I know these are heavy, but they're also cheap and very easy to charge.
  • Circuitry.  The full bill of materials is on Step 3.  The circuit is based on the reference design for a TDA2003 10 watt audio amplifier IC and a generic lead acid charging circuit using a LM317 variable voltage regulator, used to control charge current for the battery.
  • 18V laptop power supply.  It is important that it is 18V.  The lead acid battery charger circuit needs 18V and the amplifier doesn't like continuous operation above 19V.  Hopefully you can find one of these for cheap or free.  2A or more is plenty of current for this.
  • Sheet metal.  Something to fill the hole in the back of the cabinet to make a new control panel out of.
  • 2.1mm DC input jack.  For the input power from the laptop supply.
  • 3.5mm stereo jack.  For your audio source input.
  • Toggle switches.  For switching between wall power (charge) and battery power modes, and for on/off control.
  • Potentiometer (optional).  To control volume, if you want the ability to control it separately from your device.  Controlling it from your device will save on your device's battery power, though.  The TDA2003 only uses the power you hear so there is no waste of power having it at maximum volume all the time.
  • Chip heatsinks.  Definitely a good idea to add some small heatsinks for the ICs.
  • Handle.  Something to make it easy to carry.
  • Rubber feet.  To protect the wood and make sure the device doesn't slide away.

Step 2: Fabricating Some Parts

Picture of Fabricating Some Parts

Remove everything from the speaker cabinet.  If you are using a multi-speaker cabinet like mine, separate the crossover since you will need it later. 

Mark and drill holes in the side of the cabinet for the handle.  This will be easier to do now than later.

Use a ruler to measure the spacing and diameter of the hole on the back of the speaker.  If the one you are using has permanent wires or something, you'll probably want to drill a large hole to facilitate switch and jack mounting, since the 3/8" or 1/2" thickness of the wood is going to make switch and jack mounting impossible.  If your enclosure is metal then you'll probably be fine without a plate at all.  Just mount everything right through the cabinet itself.

After making various measurements of components, I drew a drill template in AutoCAD to print out and transfer to some aluminum sheet metal.  Lots of materials can work for this purpose.

I also fabricated a small bracket out of the same aluminum to retain the battery inside the case, as seen in picture #3 on this step.

Step 3: Circuitry Explanation

Picture of Circuitry Explanation

I made a PCB for this project to save space.  I've supplied everything needed to build your own PCB in PDFs.  One is the schematic.  One is an image with a silk screen to help you build the board and show you where to place a few jumper wires.  The last one is a ready to print transfer that is pre-flipped for iron-on PCB making methods. Use these to fabricate by your favourite PCB method. 

Alternatively, you can build it on perfboard or however you like to do it.  Personal preference weighs heavily in these things. 

Wire the switches and inputs with enough wire they can reach where you are externally mounting them.  Use 22 gauge wire or higher for the switches and power input to ensure the wires don't get hot.  If you want to get fancy, use shielded cable for the headphone input. 

The amplifier is lifted directly from the datasheet for the TDA2003A 10W car radio audio amplifier IC.  This IC is really simple and works well with a line-level input from an iPod, phone or laptop.  Since this is a mono speaker and most sources are stereo, I added R9 and R10 to serve as a passive mixer circuit, combining the stereo signals into a mono signal.

The lead acid charging circuit uses a LM317T variable voltage regulator IC.  It functions by controlling the current that the battery can receive from the laptop power supply to an optimum level for charging.  When the battery approaches full, the battery voltage increases and the circuit delivers a reduced amount of current to "trickle charge" the battery further, and maintain the full charge without damage.

If you don't want to include a volume control and would rather control the volume from your device, simply solder a wire from the center potentiometer hole to the other potentiometer hole not connected to the ground plane. This will simply pass the circuit through.

PLEASE NOTE it is important to tune the trimpot RV1 while measuring the current through the battery with an ammeter so that the current through the battery is 1/10th the Amp-hour (Ah) value of the battery.  In my case, my 1.3Ah battery should be charged with 130mA of current for optimal battery charge and lifespan.  Over-current charging can cause the battery to vent hydrogen gas, which in a confined area can trigger an explosion.  Do be sure to adjust the trimpot correctly.

For speakers with a crossover, you'll need to solder some wires to where the old wire hookups were so that the crossover can be connected to the PCB.  For LC crossovers, the inductor goes in series with the woofer and the capacitor goes in series with the tweeter.  Try to leave the crossover wired as it was originally, those engineers (probably) knew best.

Here is the full parts list for the PCB:

Integrated Circuits,"U1",TDA2003,
Integrated Circuits,"U2",LM317T,
Miscellaneous,"J1",T Block
Miscellaneous,"J3",T Block
Miscellaneous,"J4",T Block
Miscellaneous,"J2" Wi
Miscellaneous,"RV1",1k Trimpot
Miscellaneous,"RV2",100k, Potentiometer

Step 4: Testing the Circuit

Picture of Testing the Circuit

Hook it all up and check that it works!

When testing the battery charger, turn the potentiometer maximum counter-clockwise to minimize current to the battery.  Connect 18V DC to the circuit, and connect the battery with an ammeter in series with it.  Turn the potentiometer clockwise until the charge current reaches 1/10th the Ah rating of the battery.  As the battery charges the current should slowly drop.  Also, the current will be flowing in reverse than how you would expect when you connect the (+) of the ammeter to the (-) of the battery.  This is how it works and not a sign something is wrong, as it may intuitively seem.

To test the amplifier, connect the speakers and a music playing source.  If you're unsure about your circuit building skills (or my design skills) use a volt meter to check the voltage present at the 3.5mm jack, or test with an old device.  If you hear music, everything works great!

Step 5: Assembly

Picture of Assembly
Time to assemble!

First, put the battery in place.  I used #4 wood screws for mounting everything, and drilled 5/64ths pilot holes where possible.  If no pilot hole is possible it is okay since the particle board can take a small screw without cracking.

Mount the PCB on some small plastic standoffs so that it isn't sitting directly against the wood.  I had some small 3/16" tall nylon washers which worked perfectly.  Try and keep it away from the speakers so that there is minimal interference, both physical and electromagnetic.

Route the LED up through a hole in the speaker face of the cabinet and secure it with the LED holder.  I just pulled one of the dust screen mounts out with pliers and put it in there.

Route the switches and jacks out the hole in the back and attach them to the plate.  Screw the plate in place on the back of the cabinet.

Put hot glue on the crossover and glue it inside so all the wires can get to where they need to go.

Connect the speakers and screw them in.

Stick some little rubber feet on the sides you want it to stand on.

Plug it in and test it out!

What to check if it doesn't work:
  • If it works on wall power but not on battery, check the battery polarity and charge.  Reverse polarity on the battery is really bad for the circuit so try and not do that one.
  • If it sounds bad, make sure you didn't get the wires for the tweeter and woofer mixed up.  This would cause some really odd sound.
  • Sometimes T-blocks don't get a good grip on wires and they fall out after handling.

Step 6: Finished!

Picture of Finished!
Take pride in knowing you put an old unloved speaker to good use, and enjoy the high quality audio now at your disposal anywhere, anytime. 

  • A low battery indicator.  I thought of this after I was nearly finished but a transistor and voltage divider could activate an LED when the battery drops below a particular voltage.  Could definitely come in handy and would also help prevent over-draining the battery.
  • A different battery technology.  A lighter or more powerful battery technology would increase the battery life and weight quite a bit.  They are, of course, more costly and require special charging circuit otherwise they pose a major fire hazard.
  • Bigger more powerful amplifier.  The TDA2003 design is scalable, so a more powerful amp circuit could be devised, but the battery life will take a hit unless upgraded as well. If someone wanted to build a large cabinet with a full car battery inside then a 100W amp may be required.  High power amplifiers for car audio can be purchased as kits for relatively cheap on the internet.
Please feel free to ask any questions or post suggestions.  Thanks for reading!


billgeo (author)2016-10-25

Over voltage will destroy a lead-acid battery too. Don't go over 13.8V to be on the save side (measure the output without it been connected to the battery)

psharp20 (author)2015-07-18


Nice project. I'm working on something similar, installing a raspberry pi for music streaming into an old transistor radio. I'm limited on space, as I imagine this build was too, the only way to fit a lead acid battery into the project is with it right up against the back of the speaker.

My question is, did you have the same problem? How close is the battery to the speaker magnet (it's a bit hard to figure out from the picture)? If they are close (as in 2-5mm), does that have any implication for the sound, or could it damage the battery?


mattthegamer463 (author)psharp202015-07-18

It's more than an inch away, but I don't think it would have a problem anyway, as long as it isn't touching the battery contacts.

Lithium polymer batteries for RC vehicles are coming down in price, take a look at implementing one of those to save on weight and get longer battery life. That's what I would do if I was doing it again.

Opparobent (author)2015-07-16

What if i want to use 220v ac instead of a battery, what transformer and rectifier do i need? And can you give me some explanation like how much are the output voltage, current and power after passing a transformer. Can I just use a bridge rectifier or you think there is a better method.It would be great if you give me other important details too because Im still new to this kind of stuff. Thank you very much.

I recommend you use a 18-20V laptop power adapter. They are cheap, efficient, and easy to use. If you are new to transformers you should definitely be reading lots of theory material and understanding precisely what you are doing, as you know 220V AC can kill you.

Opparobent (author)2015-07-04

Can you also teach how to build a crossover? or at least pls give some advices

This page has many articles, tutorials, and calculators for crossover design and building.

daniel.faria.96558 (author)2015-05-02

very nice project , ive been looking for this for a long time thanks x)

JKPieGuy (author)2014-05-21

(I've tried submitting this question two other times, but for some reason the "Back-Space" button kept on turning the page back, thus loosing what I had wrote.)

Two questions though:

First, if batteries are usually charged about 2 volts above the battery rating, which in this case would 14V for a 12V battery, then why is 18v needed from the power supply?

Second, is it important to use a laptop charger, or can an AC-DC wall adapter with the same rating work? (Because as far as I know, a laptop power brick is just a cleaner supply of DC.)

Please respond back when you have the chance, and I'll really appreciate it. Thanks.

Also, another thing. You had said if we had any suggestions to leave them in the comments. Well I was thinking if you were to add some "Speaker Grill Cloth Fabric" to the front, it help keep the dust out, and prevent things from puncturing the speaker themselves. Plus it would look very nice if you were to use some vintage looking speaker fabric.

mattthegamer463 (author)JKPieGuy2014-05-22

Hi there, the reason for the 18V supply is so that there is some overhead for the charging circuit, since it uses a linear regulator for a constant current source. The 18V also gives the amp a little more overhead and volume capability when plugged in. The laptop supply is just because you can't beat laptop supplies for voltage and current capabilities, for the price. They can also be found cheaply or for free from a dead laptop. The clean voltage is also nice but any supply should do. I removed the speaker cover because it looks way cooler, and it isn't so obvious that its a speaker box when its on there so it isn't as good for pictures. I lost the dust covers a long time ago for this one anyway. Dust covers really doesn't do muc to prevent punctures but does help against UV damage from the sun.

JKPieGuy (author)mattthegamer4632014-05-23

Thanks for returning my question so quickly, I really appreciate it!

Now that you explained why 18V is needed, it makes allot more sence. So basically what you're saying is: Instead of draining the battery while it's charging, the excess voltage powers the amp letting the battery charge steadily. You also have a very good point about the laptop chargers. You can find them quite easily and cheaply also. I also have to agree, it does look cooler seeing the actual speaker instead of a bland black dust cover.

I do plan on building one of these over the summer, but I can't seem to find any good Bookshelf Speakers lying around (and I don't really want to buy any from for say "Best Buy", cause for the price they charge, you minus well just buy a boombox). Though I do have some old car door mount speakers that my Father got a long time ago and never used. Was thinking of getting some plywood and routing that into a speaker box, though I'd probly make it stereo instead of Mono since I have two speakers. I'll make sure to let you know how it goes once I get around to it. I do want to modify the circuit just a tad, by adding an indicator light which would display Battery at full charge.

Question about that though. In order to get a stereo sound, wouldn't I just build two of the speaker amplifying circuits without the two mixing 1K Resistors at R9 and R10?

mattthegamer463 (author)JKPieGuy2014-05-23

Yes, just remove the resistors and send one channel to each circuit. For the full charge indicator, use a NPN transistor and a LED, and a pair of resistors that put 0.7V on the base of the NPN when 12V is coming from the + of the battery. The LED won't light until the voltage becomes 12V. You could use a trimpot in place of two resistors to make it adjustable trigger.

usMudack1998 (author)2013-11-14

Could you make an instructable on how to incorporate a Radio and Auxiliary device in as well? Built in to the housing that is...

Really it wouldn't difficult to do. If you can't imagine how to do it then how will you be able to accomplish it?

ManishS (author)2013-08-30

Thanks for sharing! It is superb and so easy to handle...

I would also show you portable electric router..It is so easy to use and easy to handle..

nettro1 (author)2013-07-17

Very cool

gquirino (author)2013-05-19

uhmmm what will happen if I failed to build a crossover and instead, directly connecting the tweeter and sub together? if the crossover is really needed can you please teach me how? 'cause im still new on these things and i would like to build this project because im also a music lover and a portable speaker will help me alot..thanks in advanced!! :D

mattthegamer463 (author)gquirino2013-05-20

A simple crossover is very easy to make, it only contains two components.  This tool will help you out

Without the crossover some speakers can get grumpy about having to try to handle low frequencies (tweeters don't like that) or high frequencies (woofers just plain can't do it) so there's good reason to include one.  Sound quality will suffer without one as well.

dtbingle (author)2013-04-23

The kit by jameco with all of the components is either not complete or am I missing something? Unless I completely overlooked something, I don't see the .5 ohm 5w resistor, 1k resistors and has extra 47nf caps in place of the 37 or 39nf caps (can't remember which) in this jameco kit. Am I doing something wrong?

pogodike200!!! (author)2013-02-25

and ,, how it sounds???????

It sounds great!

because is very good men

nilnate519 (author)2013-01-01

what type of Terminal Block was used for the project, looking on digikey and too many options for me to make a well informed decision

Hi, The T-block can be any 0.2" (5.08mm) pitch T-block or connector. Digikey part ED2609-ND or similar.

nilnate519 (author)2012-11-16

I am wondering what speaker and subwoofer to buy to make this a good project. Are these good speakers Tang Band W4-930SF. What about Subwoofer? Also recomend components that would be easy to get at a Radioshack

Maybe these will work for you

Also how do you hook up the subwoofer in the circuit and if I just wanted to buy speakers could I make my own inclosure?

You will have to design a crossover circuit to filter low frequencies to the subwoofer and high frequencies to the tweeter. Crossover design is not a simple thing to do so I recommend you just get/buy an old speaker to use. Speaker cabinet design is also a pretty math-heavy thing so I recommend getting/buying a speaker for that reason as well.

What are "VCC" "T Block" and "Wi" also how does the battery circuit connect to the speaker circuit.

Vcc is the circuit voltage. T-blocks are screw-down wire terminals. I don't know what Wi is or where you got that from.

The circuit schematic is pretty straightforward. There is a switch that disconnects the battery from the charging circuit and hooks it to the amplifier circuit.

brendan945 (author)2012-10-27

I think as evidenced by the comments here, this is a great jump off point for anyone looking to build a portable audio system. I have been kicking this idea around for a while unsure where to start. This is exactly the kind of instructable I've been waiting for.

johnson.taylor (author)2012-08-30

Maybe I'm confused but I read through this a couple of time and viewed the PDF. Where are you buying all of the electronics parts from?

Additionally how did you do the PCB? I actually have quite a bit of "blank" PCB but I'm not sure the best method of transcribing/etching onto them. What do you recommend?

I didn't say where I got my parts since for most people it is up to their preference to get them from a local store, internet, eBay, etc. and people's location determines where they can and can't buy from. Listing sites would be mostly useless. I get my parts from Digikey but almost all these parts are available anywhere that sells electronic components. Even Radioshack should have all this stuff.

I made the PCB using the laser printer and magazine paper iron-on transfer method. Works great and is practically free. Alternatively PCBs can be manufactured in china by internet order for as little as $1 apiece. Here is a guide I loosely follow to do my boards

whizbo (author)2012-08-14

I built a slightly larger speaker on the same premise.

There are lots of efficient Class T amps out there. That can save you some time. Here's a wonderful review

I went with the The 41HZ AMP-3 and I've been very happy.

Technically mine is portable, but it's not light. Your design looks like a great size. Cool build!!

mattthegamer463 (author)whizbo2012-08-14

Thanks, thats pretty great, how long is the battery life at a reasonable volume?

whizbo (author)mattthegamer4632012-08-14

8 hours of great sound, then the base starts to distort a bit and requires the volume to be turned down.

tylermeredyk (author)2012-08-13

add this
cheap and sounds great
i just put this into some earmuffs turned out great

Joe_M (author)2012-08-12

I think the amp is a litle like reinventing the wheel. There are some great low cost amps that have a RCA input, volume, tone, and head phone, that would do nicely on that big battery. They are stereo, but I think there are some that can be set to mono, and double the power to one channel.
I love the idea of making your own kick-ass boom box. You could incorporate a cheap mp3 type player, and add any amount of ram of MP3 music, or whatever audio format you like.

mattthegamer463 (author)Joe_M2012-08-13

Yeah definitely. The integrated MP3 player would be great. Deal extreme has some really good looking ones for $10. The amp and battery charge circuit on one board was unnecessary but since I didn't have either as a pre-made or kit type, I just made them myself. Good practice on the PCB making techniques too. Haven't made one that way in over a year.

Elipsit (author)2012-08-13

Solid project as per usual. Not sure why there is so much flack about pricing, the main focus of an to instruct, which he did quite well.

Trike Lover (author)2012-08-12

Interesting project. Your idea of including a rechargeable 12 volt battery is a good one. If I were building it I think I would also make some provision for a cord to connect to an automobile cigarette lighter socket, using a power cord jack with a switch that would disconnect the internal battery and connect the car battery supply. You might also want to include a switch (DPDT, center off?) to give the option of charging the internal battery directly from the cigarette lighter input, bypassing the charging circuit. You would then have the option of internal battery power, external auto battery power, or charging the internal battery.

Another provision that might be useful would be to put in a 7805 regulator alongside the LM317, the output of which would go to a jack where the power cable for an mp3 device could be plugged in (all mine run on 5 VDC at less than 500 mA. Connector choice would be up to the individual; a chassis-mount standard 4-pin USB socket would probably mate with most mp3 player cords. (+5 VDC and Gnd. on pins 1 and 4).

If you wanted to get really "green" on the battery charging side, you might consider purchasing one of the small "battery maintainer" solar panels that put out about 14-15 volts; output power is 1.2 - 1.5 Watts.

I frequently see these on sale for as little as $10. They have built-in car battery-charging circuits, so you could again use a switched cable input jack, with the switch bypassing the internal charging circuit, and connecting the solar panel directly to the battery. If you were having your fun in the sun, one of these would charge the battery without an external power source, and extend your "run time".

If your speaker box was a bit longer, the panel could mount right onto the box. Alternately,, devise a folding stand with a few pieces of stiff wire, or wooden dowels, to align the panel at the best angle for maximum solar capture. Have a couple of clips to hold the panel onto the box side when not in use. These panels work even if placed in the rear window of a car, or on a bicycle carrier rack, so it could continue to charge the internal battery in transit.

Finally, for those who don't want to etch their own boards or build their own amplifier board, single-chip mono amplifier boards with suitable power outputs and input voltage requirements are available on various online auction sites, some for as little as $10. The lazy man's way, yes, but for those with less experience in building circuits, these offer an alternative, and still let the builder do the other parts of the construction.

Just a few thoughts, not meant as a criticism of your very neat and attractive project.

Wow, yes a lot of good points. The lead acid charging circuit would need to be changed, this one requires a 18V input voltage so charging from a car cigarette outlet wouldn't work. Definitely some neat ideas for somebody building a beefed up version of this. Thanks for the big post.

Yes, I looked at your schematic and wasn't entirely sure why you'd gone for the 18 volt charger input. The SLA's will charge directly from a car cigarette lighter socket and don't seem to suffer any ill effects, based on my own experience.
The mini solar panel already has a charge controller built in, so no problem there.
Another option, if you _really_ want 18 volts at your charging circuit input and have only 13.8 VDC available, is to order a voltage "boost" board from EBay. These are essentially an upconverting switching power supply on a board, and will accept a variety of input voltages and give a set output voltage.

Anyhow, I'm trying to shoehorn a guittar amp, mixer, rechargeables, jacks, pots, etc. into a traveller's soap dish, to give a rechargeable portable headphone guitar practice amp. It's a tight fit.

Cheers & good luck.

P.S. I used four of those 1 watt solar panels to "top off" a 20 AH SLA battery, which in turn was running an electric cooler. They did a good job - I only had to resort to the "real" charger once in a while, I was surprised.

When you charge the 12V batteries directly from the cigarette lighter, can they be left indefinitely or do you need to make sure to unplug them after a certain amount of time?

Also, I bought that battery from a local store, brand new, for $15! Don't know why people keep telling me it is worth more than that. If it is, I guess I got a great deal.

Your second point first - Yes, that is a great deal! I did some more checking around this morning and the lowest $ I found for that size of battery (new) was $27. So I sure wish I lived near your store, LOL!

Charging from the cigarette lighter, you can leave them plugged in. The regulator in the alternator will not charge the car battery to more than 13.8 volts, and thus your SLA battery, which is effectively in parallel, will also not exceed the 13.8 volts. As the battery voltage rises to the maximum value, the charging current decreases. There is some extra load on the alternator, but for a battery of this size it's minimal.

When I am manually charging one of these, I periodically check the SLA battery voltage with a meter and disconnect when they're at or above 13.6 volts. The one thing you don't want to do is have it in the circuit when you're starting the car - hard on the smaller battery.

I have a pair of 20 AH SLA batteries in the trunk of my car, to run ham radio equipment independently from the car battery. A simple isolator relay disconnects these from the car battery when the engine is not running. So, if the radios run the trunk batteries down, my car battery is unaffected. There are also solid-state battery isolators available, but I've found the relay works for my needs. I do have a remote voltmeter near the dash and the radio and antenna controls which shows the trunk battery voltage.

Been digging around my tickle trunk and found an ex-stereo speaker in a good box about the same size as yours, so I'm going to give this a try. Cheers.

Sounds like a good idea. I wanted to take good care of this battery ($15 is still a good chunk of money) and want it to last a long time, and read that a regulated charging current, and not greatly exceeding 12V will keep the battery optimal.

Good luck with your project.

Trike Lover (author)Trike Lover2012-08-12

A short P.S. - the SLA battery in your photo costs, new, considerably more than $15, even from wholesalers or when on sale. Even if all other parts were on hand, the battery is quite costly if purchased new. Any suggestions as to an inexpensive source for cells of this size? Just curious.

sshim1 (author)2012-08-12

this is great but a video along with this would help better explain

mattthegamer463 (author)sshim12012-08-12

Sorry I didn't make one, do you have any questions?

sshim1 (author)mattthegamer4632012-08-12

i new to this i can get the pieces together but the im new to the circuitry part and all the layouts really don't help im more of a see and do

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