The lightweight, but sturdy device is a real workhorse, ready to provide power in the field for contractors, third world homesteads, camping trips, vacation cabins, scientifc research field stations, recharging electric powered radio controlled model aircraft, and sound systems for park events.
The heart of the unit is a standard Intermatic wall timer (Model FD12HC), with a 21 tooth spur gear mounted on the 3/16" diameter timer knob shaft, and a 36 tooth spur gear mounted on the 1/4" threaded axis that holds and rotates the solar panel. The electrical contacts of the Intermatic timer were gutted to reduce drag. The massof the lightweight 12 Volt, 12 Watt mono-crystalline solar panel, delicately balanced, slows the speed of the clock mechanism about a third of one percent.
The spur gears were ordered from:
Sterling Instrument / Stock Drive Products
www.sdp-si.com
516-328-3300
fax: 516-326-8827
Excellent schematics provided online for all gears.
21 tooth gear:
Part Number: A 1T 2-Y24021
36 tooth gear:
Part Number: A 1T 2-Y24036
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http://pc-calculator.110mb.com/sun/digital-sundial.html
http://personal.inet.fi/surf/atn/stracker/solartracker.html
Do you think the clockwork could do the job of timing for something like the liquid piston tracker?
Brian
The geared clock should be ideal for running the "clock based dripper tracker"
I have been looking for a better clock for over a year!
Some Normal wall clocks can run it but they are so hard to take apart that most of the time I have damaged them and many of them are very weak.
The advantage of the dripper trackers is that there if the wind gets strong, your clock is not directly connected to the panel and the wind cannot damage the clock. Also, with the dripper tracker, you clock could do the timing for several panels at once if you wanted.
If you are using solar panels, you can use a little of the power to run a 12 volt sump pump and reset the drippers at the end of the day.
Alternatively you could put several panels on one dripper tracker if you used big barrels of water instead of little buckets like I did.
Brian
One way to avoid it is a trick my mother taught me - put some oiled-paper under the clockwork. It attracts dirt that sticks to it and we've often gotten clocks to start up again after years of disuse by this "trick".
Peter
A state-of-the art 3' x 3' solar panel will probably generate about 85 watts, which seems extravagant for packing into a remote site or cabin. You might want to take a second look at the current usage of your 12VDC accessories and see if low drain devices are available.
My original plans called for two solar panels: 12 Volts 12 Watts each, in-line, on a longer axis, for a convertible 12 Volt - 24 Volt system. The entire rig wouldn't be much larger than my existing one. But the lightweight Russian-made panels were in short supply and I could only get my hands on one of them, at the time. I now have three of these lean-and-mean panels for my projects.
You might want to consider building two of these 12VDC 24 Watt rigs I just described. Combined, they would generate 48 Watts of power. They would also have the advantage of a lower profile (= less wind resistance) than a 3' x 3' device. And if you are truly setting up in a remote site, 2 units would provide the advantage of a redundant power system, in case one malfuntions, or becomes damaged.
I tend to favor small portable, rugged 12VDC battery power stations: One charging on the solar panel + one charging on the portable wind generator, plus one or two extra 12VDC power stations in use. That way, the portable power stations can be switched back and forth for charging, and set up in the area(s) of the camp or research station that they're needed. Very convenient.