Introduction: Portable Target Carrier
Here I'll show how to make an easy and cheap carrier for targets. It can be taken apart and easily transported or stored. This is great to have for hunters, recreational shooters and even police and military.
Step 1: Supplies Needed
1: Circular saw
3: 3" and 1 5/8" wood screws
4: Drill bit(s) sized for the screws used. Make sure the screws can still get a bite into the wood.
I use 3/4"x1 1/2"x6' boards for the uprights sourced from a local hardware store. These are cheap and may need to be replaced over time.
For the base, I got a used pallet that a local business was throwing away. These pieces are 3"x3"x42". 2x4 or typical 4x4s can be used as well.
Step 2: Cutting the Uprights
The length cut depends on the boards used for the base. I used 3"x3" so I measured first and cut that off the end of all uprights. If using 2x4s for the base, you'll be standing those on end. 2x4s don't measure 4" so measure the boards you get before cutting.
Step 3: Measure and Cut the Base
The 3x3 boards from the pallet turned out to be closer to 43" long so I cut them in half. You'll need another pair of boards. Two boards will lay parallel to the target and should be about 24" or just under. (The targets I typically get are around 24" wide.) Two more boards will act as the feet and will attach to the ends of the other two, perpendicular to the target. The feet should be about 24" long each. That's a total of 8 feet of board per target carrier base.
Step 4: Drill the White Wood Trimmings
White Wood splits easily when screws are run through it so you really need to drill pilot holes. (I used two screws for each but one will suffice of you use some wood glue along with the screw. Drill accordingly.)
Step 5: Attach Trimmings to Cross-Boards
Use another trimming piece or a full length Upright to space the trimming away from the edge of the cross board. It's better to be slightly further from the edge than too close. I pre-started the 1 5/8" screws in the drill holes before placing them to make sure I had a hand free to hold it in place while I used the driver to run the screws flush. A trimming should be on each side of ONE cross board. (That's two pieces of trimming on one side one of the cross boards.)
Step 6: Finish Base Assembly
Place the two cross boards together with the spacers in between them. Line the ends up flush. I drilled holes in the foot board only and had to counter sink the screw heads by drilling the hole out a little larger about 3/4" deep. Holding everything together tightly, drive two 3" screws through the foot board into the ends of each cross board. Repeat for the other side.
Step 7: Final Assembly
The uprights should slide into gap left between the cross boards thanks to the spacers. Put one upright in on each side.
Step 8: Afix Target
A thick paper target can be stapled directly to the uprights but thin paper will need a cardboard piece stapled in place first. I use a Heavy-Duty/Utility Staple Gun to make the attachments.
For a final couple notes: A shooter MUST be aware of what's beyond the target. If a silhouette target is affixed to match the shooter's height, keep in mind that a "headshot" will be at an upward angle and can lob projectiles long distances. Please shoot responsibly and safely!
The uprights may take some hits from not-so-well-aimed shots or from shotgun shooting. Inspect them before pulling them out and replace as needed. The cost is typically under $2 each. I don't trim the replacements as there's no need to use the trimmings as spacers.
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