It probably weighs close to 100 lbs empty. I can pick it up and carry it but it is really awkward due to its size. add in the paddles, trolling motor and battery, fishing gear, etc etc. and it gets tough to portage without risking damage to the bottom.
This instructable is geared towards making a cart to handle my canoe. For a Kayak or smaller canoe you could scale it back to 3/4 inch PVC to make it lighter and smaller.
Step 1: Tools needed
I originally started with the Hacksaw but it was taking forever. I switched to the miter saw and it made the cuts drastically faster and the cleanup of the cut ends was not to bad.
I Do not recommend using any type of powered saw to cut the pipe
-utility knife or file to remove any burrs from the PVC after cutting it
-Drill and assorted bits ranging up to a 1/2 inch bit
-rubber Mallet (not pictured)
-Hot glue gun and glue sticks
-Fine grit Sand Paper or 00 Steel wool to rough up the PVC surface before painting
-Spray paint designed for plastic
Step 2: Gathering parts
- (1) 10 foot section of 1.5 inch PVC pipe
- (4) 1.5 inch Tee connector
- (2) 1.5 inch clean-out plug
- (2) 1.5 inch female adapter
- (4) 1.5 inch end cap
- (2) 1/2-13 x 4 Hex cap screw
- (4) 1/2-13 hex nut
- (6) 1/2 hardened flat washer
Step 3: Measure twice, Cut once
decide what the dimensions of your cart are going to be before you start cutting.
remember to take into account not only the length of the adapters you are using but also the amount of the pipe that fits inside the adapter when you cut you pipes to length.
A good rule of thumb is that whatever the diameter of your pipe is, that is roughly how deep the pipe will seat into the adapter. But that is not always the case. The female adapter will only seat .75 inch of pipe, not 1.5 inches.
Step 4: Wheel Assembly
A nice side effect of building it this way is that if I need to use a different set of wheels (for instance: Fat pneumatic tire for crossing sand ), I can take off the entire assembly and screw on a new set of wheels to the cart.
Use a straight edge and draw lines from corner to corner diagonally. Where the lines intersect is the center of the square.
Start with a small bit and work your way up progressively until you Drill a 1/2 inch hole into the square of each of the clean-out plugs.
The smaller the increments you increase the bits by the smoother the drilling process will be. If you try to jump up too much at once you will gouge out too big of a piece and it will jam up possibly shattering your clean-out plug
Assemble the Wheel assembly
Wheel (apply grease to the bolt at this point if you opt to use it)
Hot glue filler ( to help waterproof the assembly)
I added teflon tape to the threads for smoother mounting.
Step 5: Body Assembly
once you are satisfied pull it all apart and start to prime and cement it together.
When working with smaller length parts it Helps to have a rubber mallet to get the part fully seated before the cement fuses the parts together.
(yes that is a tub buried in my back yard ... no I didn't put it there)
Step 6: Time to make it puuuuuurty
another perk of the detachable wheels .. easy to hang up the assembled parts for painting.
Step 7: Finishing touches
1) it makes a nice padding
2) it offers an added degree of floatation should your cart find a way out of the boat (thanks kids)
I was fortunate to find a pool noodle with and 1.5 inch inner bore so i didn't have to cut it to attach it to the cart.
A few bungee cords ( not pictured) to keep the cart firmly attached to the bottom of you canoe or kayak and you are good to go.