It probably weighs close to 100 lbs empty. I can pick it up and carry it but it is really awkward due to its size. add in the paddles, trolling motor and battery, fishing gear, etc etc. and it gets tough to portage without risking damage to the bottom.
This instructable is geared towards making a cart to handle my canoe. For a Kayak or smaller canoe you could scale it back to 3/4 inch PVC to make it lighter and smaller.
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I originally started with the Hacksaw but it was taking forever. I switched to the miter saw and it made the cuts drastically faster and the cleanup of the cut ends was not to bad.
I Do not recommend using any type of powered saw to cut the pipe
-utility knife or file to remove any burrs from the PVC after cutting it
-Drill and assorted bits ranging up to a 1/2 inch bit
-PVC Primer
-PVC cement
-rubber Mallet (not pictured)
-Hot glue gun and glue sticks
-Fine grit Sand Paper or 00 Steel wool to rough up the PVC surface before painting
-Spray paint designed for plastic












































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I actually saw a guy who built one of these from copying one from a retail store but his wheels were wonky. If I see him again I'll let him know about your Instructable.
Congratulations on winning the contest, and thanks so much for posting!
One of the really nice things about this project is that it can be assembled in a single afternoon (even less time if you don't have to run all over town for parts and take pics to post up online hehe)
If anyone knows where to get the pool noodles from, I would really appreciate it. I have googled for 'Super Wacky Noodle' and can not find retailers.
Thanks - enjoyed your instructable!
Hope this was helpful :-)
I found the noodle at dollar general, but I have seen them at other discount retail stores as well.
I love the kickstand idea.
Awesome job!!
The kayak I was designing around is about 13 feet long and 35 pounds, based on this tutorial [http://tinyurl.com/334poz] But I also have a bamboo one that I might want to try and stack on the same cart. It's about the same length, but a few pounds lighter.
So, I should go with 3/4" pipe for the single cart, and larger for the harebrained stacking idea?
I don't know how well it will do for the two stacked ... you might need to step up to 1 inch pipe for that.
The 1.5" that I used is able to handle the canoe that I have (approx 100 lbs) and all the gear (including a trolling motor and a deep cycle battery to run the motor) that I take on a trip no problem.
I'm guessing with all 3 boats and gear, we're about 125lbs load. The only change I made was the axle.
I ran a piece of all-thread all the way through the axle pipe and caps, then used nyloc nuts to secure it. Washers, wheels, more washers, and more nyloc nuts secure the wheels with just enough tension to not wobble but still roll freely.
I haven't noticed any deflection in the axle from the load.
Also, as an alternative to the foam noodles, I used bicycle handlebar grip tape. It seems to "grab" the bottom of the boat nicely and still give a bit of protection.
look forward to seeing pics when you finish your cart.
I will be adding a larger piece of pipe to stiffen up the bottom cross member. Have to find one that fits reasonably well over the 1-1/2" sch 40 connectors.
Other tricks for cutting would be flexible hacksaw blades or a 14" chopsaw; which cuts up to 6" pipe with ease.
Good instructable overall!
I just set the cart under one end, secure it with a tie down, and pick up the other end and roll along on my way.
For now I an still using my 40lb thrust trolling motor with my canoe. I am still on the lookout for a small (somewhere between 3-7hp) reasonably priced outboard.
I still can't figure out how the justify charging more for a 5hp motor than they do for a 25hp motor.
thanks, i am very proud of this ible (it was my first one)
Will add an image or details later on what I find for the proper pipe size to stiffen things up.
For your motor needs, watch craigslist for your local area; or craiglook.com to search multiple locations. I've seen canoe motors go for about the same price as electric motors in my area. Good luck!
I tried checking craiglook and it appears that criagslist took it down :(
no worries .. I will eventually find what I need. good things come to those who wait :)
Attached are two pictures of the finished cart. I found that the 1-1/2" fittings don't fit well inside of 2" pipe without major sanding of the fittings, so I had to utilize 2-1/2" service entrance pipe. I did not want to reduce the strength of the fitting. There is a gap that still needs to be filled, I think I will go with expansion foam to add to the buoyancy. I also have not put on any foam insulation or floater sticks, yet.
Another thing that I did, although I didn't get any pictures of the process or end result was to take a piece of 1-1/4" pipe and my belt sander to get another singular piece of pipe that fits inside of the 1-1/2" pipe snugly along the entire length (hub to hub). It took about 15 minutes with some 50 grit paper to get the outer diameter of the 1-1/4" pipe to fit within the 1-1/2" pipe properly.
I have put the canoe back on the cart with the same load that I mentioned above and there is little to no deflection noticeable compared to how it was before. Increasing the cross sectional area has really helped.
Have you thought of using golf bag trolley wheels? They are very lightweight and have a wide "footprint" which helps in loose sand and soft soils.
let me know what you think .. just right? ... too much?
I have used a Skil saw to cut larger PVC Works great up to about 4 inch diameter.
Click here for images of surfboard trailers.