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For starters, I built a rack for my truck to throw some "off road" lights on.  I wanted a box to control these and some reverse lights.  I also got an old remote starter from my dad that happened to have some aux outputs on it.  As soon as I found this out, I wanted to hook them up to control my lights.  Along with the outputs I wanted to have my panic and lock button activate my horn and lights above the roof.
Also, as I went to publish this ible I found out about the Redneck Contest so I'll be entering in that.  Please vote, criticism is welcome too!
I DONT KNOW ABOUT RULES AND REGULATIONS IN YOUR PROVINCE/TERRITORY/STATE BUT HERE IN PEI, ALL LIGHTS OTHER THAN STOCK HEADLIGHTS/FOGS ARE ILLEGAL TO USE ON THE ROAD. OFF ROAD USE ONLY!

This box did not cost me very much if anything at all, being as I had almost everything on hand.

Also I take no responsibility for anything that happens to your vehicle should you choose to follow this ible!

Parts:
X number of relays - Relays with holders, based on how ever many toys you need to power.  I put 4 holders but am only currently using 3.
1 - Fuse panel.  Minimum one fuse slot per relay being used.  I got mine from a camper.
1 - Ground bus bar.  Mine was from an old electrical panel (neutral bus).
2 - terminal strips.  One is for connecting the switch outputs to relays, the other is for connecting your toys to the relays.
13 - diodes.
1 - spst relay.  This is for your horn (ONLY NEEDED IF YOUR HORN USES NEGATIVE TRIGGER WIRE!!)
1 - Roll of 20 or 22 gauge wire.  For relay trigger wires and wiring diodes.
1 - Roll of 14 gauge wire
1 - section of heavy gauge wire.  This is your main input from your battery.  I used 6 gauge... wayyyy overkill.
1 - 15-25 foot cat 5 or cat 6 cable.  This is to go between your switches and box.
Assorted terminals.  While not necessary, they clean everything up.
A section of perfboard to place diodes/ horn relay on.
1 - Remote starter with wiring harness and aux outputs.

Tools:
Soldering iron/solder.
Wire strippers/cutters/crimpers.
Assorted screwdrivers.
Drill and bits.
Knife.
Electrical tape and/or heat shrink tube.
wire ties.

Step 1: The Diode Board

Once I thought up the idea of the remote starter and switch stuff, i needed a way for them to not interfere with each other.  Solution: diodes, the electronic one way valve.  Simply put, for every input to each device you will need one diode.  If the diodes are feeding in to your device, hook the lead of the diode with the white stipe to your device.

If you dont want your remote starter to be affiliated with your lights or whatever you're controlling, you may ignore this step.

*note: there is only 12 diodes on the board
The 13th diode is to go from the reverse wire on the chassis wiring harness to the wire going to the reverse lights.  This makes the reverse lights come on automatically when you put the transmission in reverse.
<p>Are you Steven Harris?</p>
Nope
nice looking power delivery box, i bought all the diodes, a few relays, a water proof fuse box, and switches. i am doing an electrical overhaul on my suzuki samurai, my wiring harness is crap so anything to do with flashers and hazards is dead so i have to rip it all out and start from scratch, i have everything except wire and a project box. why i am it i am also going to replace my fenders, paint my engine bay, etc. itll be a pretty big project

About This Instructable

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Bio: Full time student in the Industrial Electrical Tech program. Wanna be redneck, driving my 93 ford ranger 4x4. Back yard mechanic... well heated garage mechanic ... More »
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