Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 12Prepare the Arduino Pro Mini
I suggest creating connectors for the sensors rather than just soldering them to the Arduino.
Cut 9-pin right-angle header. There's not much vertical clearance in the wrist housing, so if they're very tall, you'll want to push the pins through somewhat (see image). Solder this header to pins GND, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 on the Arduino Pro Mini.
Cut a second 9-pin right-angle header, again pushing the pins through if needed. Place the 100k ohm resistor's leads in the GND and A3 pins on the other side of the Mini, as in the photo. Now, push the 9-pin header into pins GND, RST, VCC, A3, A2, A1, A0, 13, and 12 and solder it into place. It will be a tight fit due to the resistor, but shouldn't give too much trouble.
If you're using an external battery clip, such as a 9V, knot the clip's wires about a centimeter from the clip. This will ensure that yanking the clip pulls only the knot and not the solder joints. Solder the battery clip with its positive lead into the RAW pin, and its negative lead into one of the GND pins (I used BLK, which is also connected to the board's ground plane).
If you haven't yet uploaded the program to the Mini, do so now. Make sure that you've changed back to analogReference(DEFAULT) and changed any pin definitions back to what they were.
Test the whole thing again with USB before soldering in the BlueSMiRF. I know, you don't want to. Do it anyway. You'll thank yourself later.
If everything is working, cut the BlueSMiRF's ribbon cable to length (see photos) and solder the wires into the top of the Mini. VCC to VCC, GND to GND, RX-I to TX(0) and TX-O to RX(1).
Use sidecuts to cut all the leads and header pins as flush as possible to the back of the board.
Cut 9-pin right-angle header. There's not much vertical clearance in the wrist housing, so if they're very tall, you'll want to push the pins through somewhat (see image). Solder this header to pins GND, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 on the Arduino Pro Mini.
Cut a second 9-pin right-angle header, again pushing the pins through if needed. Place the 100k ohm resistor's leads in the GND and A3 pins on the other side of the Mini, as in the photo. Now, push the 9-pin header into pins GND, RST, VCC, A3, A2, A1, A0, 13, and 12 and solder it into place. It will be a tight fit due to the resistor, but shouldn't give too much trouble.
If you're using an external battery clip, such as a 9V, knot the clip's wires about a centimeter from the clip. This will ensure that yanking the clip pulls only the knot and not the solder joints. Solder the battery clip with its positive lead into the RAW pin, and its negative lead into one of the GND pins (I used BLK, which is also connected to the board's ground plane).
If you haven't yet uploaded the program to the Mini, do so now. Make sure that you've changed back to analogReference(DEFAULT) and changed any pin definitions back to what they were.
Test the whole thing again with USB before soldering in the BlueSMiRF. I know, you don't want to. Do it anyway. You'll thank yourself later.
If everything is working, cut the BlueSMiRF's ribbon cable to length (see photos) and solder the wires into the top of the Mini. VCC to VCC, GND to GND, RX-I to TX(0) and TX-O to RX(1).
Use sidecuts to cut all the leads and header pins as flush as possible to the back of the board.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
 |
Add Comment
|
