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In this instructable I'll show you how to replace your bike's indicator bulb with power LEDs. I made this for my Yamaha 100cc motor bike beacuse it is the only vehicle that I own. However this project is scalable to car or even truck!

So why you would like to replace your regular bulbs with LEDs. Following are some of the reasons.
1- LEDs consume much lower power than light bulb so they are much gentler on your battery and also lit up when battery is low.
2- Power LEDs are very bright. Since indicator light is an important safety feature of your vehicle so you want them brightly lit.
3- LEDs last much longer than regular bulbs.

Materials Required

These are materials for 1 indicator light. Multiply with 4 for both front and rear indicators.
3, 1-watt LEDs per indicator.(Forward voltage=2.1 volts. Current=470 mA. I used orange LEDs, you may use yellow instead)
3 heat sinks for LEDs
Some wire
Some thick electrical wire
Super glue

Tools

Soldering iron
Screw driver
Wire stripper
Nose plier

Step 1:

Solder LEDs to heat sinks

The first step is to solder LEDs to heat sinks. Take care to solder -ve terminal of LED to -ve mark on heat sink and vice versa.

Inter-connecting LEDs

We want to make a series circuit here, so attach -ve terminal of LED to the +ve of the next. Also attach wires at both terminals to supply power to circuit.

Assembling

I took a single copper strand from electrical wire and super glued it to the back of heat sinks(see picture). It is important that you do not use any material for assembly which covers the back of heat sink (such as electrical tape etc). I cut wire which is significantly longer than combined length of modules, which will be explained in the next step.

Step 2:

Fitting the assembly in the indicator unit

Remove the light bulb but do not remove the holder assembly. You do not want your LEDs to roam about in the indicator so attach it to some support(This proved to be the most tricky part of this project). Find point of attachement of long support wire which we left in previous step. In this case I attached it to screw on one side and bulb holder on the other side. I wind wire to the support with nose plier.
Attach power wires to respective terminals, place cover and you are done.


Nice post! where did you find the heat sinks? I really wanna make these to replace my motorcycle lights
Thanks for appreciation :) I got heat sinks from local electronics store but I have seen similar on ebay as well.
Where ARE the heatsinks? The stars are known as MCPCB and are just an Interface for the heatsink. You have to add more Aluminium Heatsink after the stars. <br> I think your LEDs won't last more than a month with just the stars. <br>And what about the Current regulation?
You raised a good point. The stars actually act as heat sinks in this project beacuse we are not running LEDs in continous mode.The lights are only kept on for aproximately 1/2 sec and then off for similar period, and only for 10-20 sec in total. I dont think that excess heat is problem in this project. For current regulation I wanted to add a resistor but it would consume more power than combined power of LEDs. Then I made this on trail basis, considering that source current is not unlimited and both indicators are lit at same time so current might already be regulated, and practically it proved correct.
LEDs are tolerant for a short while. Your bike battery could be 13.5~14.5v. That means your 3 LED serial is getting over 4 volts EACH. Those are killer voltages dude!<br>Head on here-<br>http://www.ngineering.com/led_calculators.htm<br>or google LED resistor calculator, and please put a resistor on those small babies. I pity them.
you are right dude but as u said &quot;LEDs are tolerant for a short while&quot; I think thats the reason they are working fine since I attached them, beacuse they are lit for short duration and in pulses less than 1 sec only. I am familiar with LED resistor calculators but resistors waste much power thats why I dont want to use them here (in indicators specifically). I agree that It may not be safest way but working fine in this case.
Since its running not in continuous mode and they are heat sinked with star shaped its quiet ok but RED leds what you have used have less tolerance than white and blue. But i think they will pull pretty good i too have used red and blue in combination for my led aquarium light and they are still live even after using it for 4hrs daily and its been like more than 2years. :) i too have been advised to used drivers and what not i know they should be in place but underdriving the LEDs and using in not continuous mode is the key.

About This Instructable

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Bio: I am a Pharm-D student and DIY is my hobby. I like to experiment with electronics, reusing/upcycling things etc.
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