Hi everyone!

I decided to make an electric longboard this year. Boosted Board has inspired me and it's such a nice electric longboard, but so expensive (like 1500€ for the 2000W model).

Before I start I will explain some things because I didn't really want to copy the Boosted Board design.

First of all, I wanted to make an Electric longboard as thin as possible, so I used separate Lipo cells and made a very thin battery pack (12mm) so people won't see it from the side that it's an Electric longboard.

The second thing is the power, I would like a longboard with a power between 1500W-2000W, The motor can handle 2220W but I use a 6S battery so the power will be a bit lower like 2000W max peak but that's really enough, trust me ;)

The other reason why I use a 6S battery is because once you go higher than 6S the price of the ESC is so much higher like double the price for 8S or 10S, Also charging a 6S battery is much more easy than a 10S.

If we talk about speed, I theoretically calculated the board at about 46km/h so I would practically reach about 40km/h. And in reality I have tested it on the smoothest road in our town and I can ride 42km/h max speed.

So on the most roads I can perfectly reach 40km/h which is really so amazingly fast.

The battery with 220Wh will give me a 14km ride.

The longboard I ride for a while is a Madrid Weezer and it isn't an expensive board (only 100€) but it has a bit of the looks of a boosted board.

In total I have spent like 300€ for every single part (except the longboard itself) to convert my longboard into an Electric longboard

I think you know enough information to start the explanation how I made my Electric longboard.

! Video's coming soon so stay tuned by this instructable or my youtube channel !

Step 1: Collect All the Parts You Need

What do we need?

SK3 - 320Kv Motor: Hobbyking

You can use other motors too but I have calculated the speed and torque on this motor and it is the most powerfull in the 50mm diameter series and not very expensive (52€)

120A ESC: Hobbyking

This is a boat ESC and runs very smooth with no problems. You can also buy a program card for this ESC which I also did. You can change several things like acceleration, brake, cut off voltage,... -> Hobbyking

Lipo Batteries:Hobbyking

I bought 12 cells of these, so I can make a 6S2P battery pack, the cells are 5000mAh so a 6S2P will give me 22.2V and 10000mAh, enough to have fun long ride.

Another alternative to get a slim battery pack is this Multistar 6S 10Ah pack which you can disassemble, Here's a link how it looks like.

Transmitter and Receiver:Hobbyking

I used this controller because there are used a lot for electric longboards and there's a 3D printed version available which only has a throttle because you don't need a steering wheel on a longboard controller. BadWolf GT2B Case

So you need to unscrew the original controller and place all electrical components in the 3D printed model which is much more smaller. -> Step by step explaination

6S lipo charger:Hobbyking

Very nice charger 250W 10A so it will charge my battery in 1 hour! I know in the picture you can see I bought another charger but it's only 50W 5A charger, it was a very cheap one but it takes 5 hours to fully charge the battery so the 250W charger will be my next upgrade.

XT60 Connectors:Hobbyking

Very good connectors and the have a small lock which never came loose during a ride.

4mm Bullet connector:Ebay

this is to connect the ESC to the motor (ESC has standard no connectors so you need to solder them)

6S balance charger cable:Ebay

To charge the lipo battery pack you need 6S charging wire, this will balance and charge every cell perfectly.

Metal timing pulley 30T:Ebay

This is a 30 teeth pulley, 16mm wide (HTD5M serie)

(btw why buying expensive pulleys and belts on special sites like sdp/si when you also find them very cheap on ebay, but I have to say I had searched so fu*king much until I finally found the pulleys I needed)

Metal timing pulley 15T:Ebay

This is a 15 teeth pulley and has a 6mm bore which fits perfect on the motor shaft. (HTD5M serie)

Rubber timing belt 54T:Ebay

I bought 5 of these because if one should break I have some extra but until now no problems with my first belt!

If you want to calculate the center distance and other stuff very quickly -> Pulley/Belt Calculator (HTD5M serie)

Silicon Wire:Ebay

You will need silicon wire to make your battery, this wire is very flex and can resist high temperatures so if you solder your wires the isolation won't melt. I used 10AWG but 12AWG is a bit smaller in diameter and will also be enough, so just saying I'm using pretty big wires but they won't overheat.

Longboard Madrid Weezer:EuroSkate

Make an aluminium motor Mount: Download my inventor design

Rubber sheet like 1mm thick

Bolts and Nuts

Step 2: Make the Motor Mount

First of all, make the motor mount

I didn't made the motor mount by myself but asked my old secundary school if they were able to make 2 pieces for me. I designed the motor mount by inventor and it's specialy made for 2 speeds, so the slots I made to srew the motor in are wide enough to move the motor and adjust the tension of the belt.

I thought when 40km/h wasn't fast enough I can also change another motor timing pulley with 20T instead of 15T, this means the board should go like 55km/h. So what I want to say is that the motor mount is designed for 2 pulleys (15T and 20T) but I think I'm not going to change it to a 20T pulley because 40km/h is so fast.

You can buy motor mounts on some sites but they will never be exactly like you want them to be.

3D printing is maybe also an option but you need to make a stronger concept and use strong plastic and not the plastic you find in the regular 3D printers.

Step 3: Solder the Electric Parts

Solder the connectors to the ESC

the ESC has standard no connectors so you have to solder them by yourself

- 3x 4mm bullet connectors to plug the ESC into the motor (Female)

- 1x XT60 conector to plug the battery into the ESC (Female)

Solder and make the battery pack

first you need to know how to connect the batteries, so we are going to make a 6S battery pack.

This means 6 cells will get conected in serie which will make a voltage of 22.2V (3.7*6)

But I have 12 cells so you need to connect 2 cells in parallel, than you have 6 "packs" which you need to connect in serie. 2 cells in parallel will double the capacity and of course double the range.

Step 4: Some Changes to the Trucks and Wheels

Let the motor mount fit on the trucks

The trucks aren't perfectly round to put the motor mount on it so we need to make it nicely round with a lathe.

I made the whole part 16mm diameter and 75mm long from the outside.

Watch the picture where I mentioned the dimention.

Constrain the 30T pulley to the wheel

We have made 2 extra parts which fits into the wheel to make it strong and nicely centered.

First we made the wheels nice and round from the inside so we have also putted them into the lathe.

Both sides I guess 5mm deep to put the 2 alluminium parts into the wheel.

After that the 30T pulley needed a bigger bore like 20mm so it won't touch the truck.

Finally 4 holes were drilled through every part and we tapped M5 into the 30T pulley so the bolt isn't screwed fully through the whole pulley.

So now the hard parts are done and we only need to put everything together!

Step 5: Put Everything Together

The first thing I did was making a sketch on paper of the real dimensions to make clear where I'm gonna put everything.

First of all I have glued a piece of rubber to the underside of the board. Just to protect the battery but it's not very necessary.

Secondly, I drilled 8 holes (M5) into the board and directly through the rubber and plastic side rails.

After this I glued the ESC and Battery pack and the Receiver in the right position.

I didn't used a lot of glue to glue the battery, just a line of glue in the middle of the battery.

Than I made another piece of rubber to fit tightly over the battery pack and the esc, I made a hole into the rubber to plug in the battery into the esc and in my opinion it is a easy and clean solution.

Finally I needed to cut the plastic side rails round at the end so it would fit in the shape of my longboard.

Step 6: Pictures of My Final Creation

!!! I want to thank Robbe Derks who has helped me with this amazing project !!!

<p>Awsome instructable! In general DIY electric longboards don't look very good but yours is really nice!</p><p>After riding it a few mounts, will you change somethings in your conception if you had the chance? If think you mentionned VESC?</p>
<p>Thanks man!</p><p>I've sold this esk8 and I currently making a new one so instructable coming after a month I guess.</p><p>There are a few things which I have changed for my new build.</p><p>First of all the ESC, I have bought a 120A car ESC which is so much smoother in acceleration and wont struggle when braking. it has a program card and has much more options then the 120A boat ESC.</p><p>The second thing I changed is the charger, I went for a BMS for my 6S2P lipo pack (the same pack with the same cells as I used in this build). This BMS is capable of charging the pack with a current of max 12A so that's fast enough.</p><p>And the last thing is the remote, I found a very nice compact one on ebay for like 20&euro; and it's so much better than the big G2TB controller I had before.</p>
<p>What motor are you using this time?</p><p>Also can you give link for that remote?</p>
This time I'm using a SK3-236Kv. But I should suggest to go for the NTM-270Kv or SK3-280Kv. I just used the 236Kv because hobbyking has sended me the wrong motor for my previous esk8.<br>Link to the remote http://www.ebay.com/itm/262779892776
<p>Thank you for your answer.</p><p>Ok, I thing i'm going to modify the G2TB controller (my friend have a 3D printer).</p><p>Do you have a good range/time with your battery and motor? </p><p>How can you charge your 12 cells battery in the same time? I saw you charging scheme but with your 12 cells battery you can't be sure that every single cell have is good charge? You will see the tension of 2 cell at least? But yeah it is working.</p>
Hi man do you have fb it's much easier to talk or something else?<br><br>I get a pretty good range around 14km with 40km topspeed. If you gear for a lower topspeed (30kmh) you will get around 20km it's just a choise if you wanne get faster is lower range ;)<br><br>For the motor I should suggest another one with a lower kv like the SK3 280Kv or the NTM 270Kv, these are better in terms of torque and power.<br><br>https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-5055-280kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html?___store=en_us<br><br>https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ntm-prop-drive-50-60-270kv-2400w-1.html
Hello, do I need to take the little black part away or do I need to keep it on the motor like this
Hi,<br>Don't remove the black circlips but you need to make sure that the circlips can rotate free when the motor turns.<br>If you make a picture of the motor srewed on your motormount, I can tell you if it's right ;)
<p>I really love the idea of putting a rubber piece under your deck to protect your stuff. I think I will use the inner tube of a motorcycle on mine ! :)</p>
<p>What do you think about this type of hub motor?</p><p>https://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/262574219922</p>
If you really want hub motors, I can recommand these:<br>- Dual Hub Motor (130kV 6S)<br>http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/electric-skateboard-hub-motor-dual/<br>- Single Hub Motor (130kV 6S)<br>http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/electric-skateboard-hub-motor-single/<br><br>It's a good brand and you can buy new wheels for the hub motors wheels:<br>http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/hub-motor-replacement-wheel/<br><br>The 83mm wheels will go 40km/h<br>The 90mm wheels will go 45km/h<br>If you use a single hub I should use the 83mm wheels (it has more torque with 83mm then 90mm)<br>When you want Dual hubs you can choose 83mm or 90mm, will both work fine ;)
<p>merci beaucoup!</p>
It's very nice and clean looking with hub motors, but I can't find the ''kV'' rating in the discription on ebay?<br>I guess like 110kV but you need that to calculate your max speed of the board. They are also pretty expensive? (300$)<br>And if they are 110kV you need 8S to go 40km/h.<br>When you use 6S you won't hit 30km/h.<br>ESC's above 6S are much more expensive (like 100$ for an ESC 8-12S)<br>This one has 2 hubmotors so you will need 2 esc's (200$)<br>And then you also need a battery and a controller (150$)<br>Only 650$ for this and believe me you need a lot more like chargers, wires, and stuff so...<br>And what if the wheels are old, can you buy new for hub motors? I don't know :)<br><br>I like the normal motor setup with pulleys and a belt because you can choose the speed depending on the transmission.
Can I solder them directly after I bought them or do I need to first discharge the batteries or do something?
<p>You can directly solder them after you bought them ;)</p>
<p>Do I need first to charge the batteries before I solder them?</p>
Nowp the balance charger will do this ;)
<p>Hello there!</p><p>First off, just wanted to say your build looks super clean, well done!</p><p><br>I was wondering about some of the specific specs, if you happen know them.</p><p>Top speed seems to be 40 kph correct? Or around 25 mph. How far will it go though?</p><p>Also, I noticed you doubled up on buying the ESCs, controllers, motors, and so on. Just curious, who got the other board?</p>
But now I have sold mine and I'm making a new one with a slightly better ESC and faster charging
Hi man and Thanks!<br>The range I could get was like 15km.<br>My friend also wanted to make a esk8 so that's why I have everything double ;)
<p>Hi, great guide! I just made my own board with the same parts you used, but my braking won't work. The board can go forward perfectly, but no matter how I program the esc I cannot stop the board. How did you get your braking to work?</p>
Hi, you have the esc programcard? just pull the triger in the opposite direction while riding forward and the board will brake.<br>Do you have set the braking ''%'' ? maybe it's on 25% and it is just so weak that you can barely feel it, so you can try putting it on 50%
<p>Ok tank you for everything :)</p>
Hi again, i found a power supply at my home and I would ask if it is compatible with the 50W charger you use?<br>
That's really perfect!
<p>Hi, the motor that you put in the description isn't in stock on Hobbyking.com do you know an other website to buy this motor or do you have an idea for an other motor who is compatible with this setup?</p>
I don't know another place to buy but I should use this one: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-5055-280kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html<br>Higher torque and topspeed with the same setup will be like 38kmh.
<p>And is this power supply: https://hobbyking.com/de_de/hobbyking-105w-15v-7a-switching-dc-power-supply.html compatible with this charger: https://hobbyking.com/de_de/turnigy-b6-compact-50w-5a-automatic-balance-charger-2-6s-lipoly.html ?</p>
Its ok to use Alien 5065 Outrunner brushless motor 350KV 2200W?
Yep that's no problem, but think about the max speed which will be like 45kmh, but maybe you want a high topspeed ;)
<p>Bartroosen, ik wil graag dezelfde motor gebruiken als jou ,maar die is niet verkrijgbaar meer :( weet jij mis een motor die ong dezelfde specs heeft? </p>
Ja er zijn nog enkele die ongeveer dezelfde specs en prijs hebben en die zelfs beter zijn voeg ma anders toe op facebook -&gt; Bart Roosen
Thx zal ik doen
<p>Bartroosen, mooi board ik wil ook en electric longboard maken! Jou pagina heeft me veel geholpen. Heb je mis nog tips? Of probemen waar je tegen aan liep? </p>
Er zijn wel een paar dingen die ik zou veranderen maar dan kan ik u misschien beter bereiken via facebook?<br>dan kan ik mijn tips die ik heb wel meedelen met u
<p>Hello,</p><p>for the charger how do you connect the charger to the electricity?</p>
I use a 12V 5A power supply but you just need power supply of 50W or more and a voltage between 12-16V i guess, but it's in the discription of the lipo charger ;)
<p>Hello, just a last question :)</p><p>Is this right?</p>
<p>No problem ;) and yep, that's correct</p>
Thanks very much for your help!
Thabk you,<br><br>But when I chareg the battery I need to connect only the balance cable to the charger or also the XT60 battery cable?
Yep I need to connect both to charge it
Thank you!
<p>Hi, very nice project!</p><p>I'm trying to do one this because we need to make a project in the college.</p><p>I have just a few questions:</p><p>-Can you maybe explain a little bit better (because I d'on't understand it) how to connect the charging cable to the batteries?</p><p>-The links of the parts aren't working. Can you put the res links please?</p><p>Thank you for this awesome project!</p>
Thanks man!<br>Well I have a picture wich will make clear how to connect the balance cables to a 5S pack, so it will be in the same way as a 6S pack ;)<br>For the links, you need to dissable adblock and then open them, wait 5 seconds and 'skip ad' right above in the corner.
Very nice build! I hope to try to copy parts of it when I have more time. <br>Just one question, why do you have two motors in the pictures? You only used one right?
Thanks!<br>Yes I only used the 320kV motor ;)<br>The other 236kV motor was delivered wrong but is also a very good motor.
<p>Nice instructions! Made it with the same components, and I must say that the board performes awesome! What ESC settings do you recommend? Also, would there be a way to make the controller more compact? Thanks!</p>
<p>very nice! So if I wanted to get 30km range would I just double the battieries into a 6S4P?</p>

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