loading
This is a follow on from my Instructable - - Powerisers, Powerbocking, Jumping Stilts - Off Road Powerbocking.
The previous mods for off road and comfort work great and the innovations are sound but I found that long distances on hard (concrete or tarmac) put odd pressure on my knees when using the rotary road feet (the green wheels in the other INST) , travelling short distances on hard terrain was fine, from one off road area to another maybe or getting back to the car when it would be foolish to try going across very smooth tarmac on the hard aluminium off road hooves that might skid and cause a fall - well, then the rubber road feet where ok - but I wanted hooves that could be used for road work or travelling longer distances and I found that a single, flatter foot worked better (more like the original) but after having made a quick change off road set of hooves it seemed daft not to make this re mod the same.

Bottom line - these work much better.

Step 1: History

Here are the old hooves showing the off road units and as stated the green wheels do not rotate but are used as road treads that can be turned when the rubber wears down in the area you are walking on.
The O/R treads have not changed except for the addition of a 10mm hole in the front for a bungee to go through - when ya look at the new road feet this will become clear as they have the same fixing hole

Step 2: The Phoenix Rises

Here are the new feet with the road shoes fitted - a much tidier job I think you'll agree - shame the treads have to be replaced when they wear down but they do do a better job when in use so it was a compromise.

Step 3: The Nitty Gritty

Ok - so lets say your gonna knock up a set or these fellas - we will assume your just going to make the road hooves - there is no big mystery, if you want an off road set, ya cut the same size blanks as for roads, do not drill holes down the length but you do screw some chunky tank track items to the bottom with countersunk screws - gotta say though, cut up bike wheels do a stand up job.

Tools are pretty basic.
Drill and bits
Spanners/Alan keys
Heat gun
Saws and sanders
Marking equipment

Materials
A3 sized $4 HDPE/nylon chopping board from a cheap homeware shop
8mm bolts long enough to go through all components - mine came frome the first mod so are a little longer
Some old, nasty skateboard bearings ya have lying around - enough to space the inner side of the side plates - see pictures in the next steps
Possibly washers or spacers - depending on the length of bolts ya buy
Un wanted mountain bike tire - I have connections so mine was free
Nylock nuts

Step 4: More Gritty

So the first thing your going to do is take your chopping board and cut two blanks - about 10inches long and the width of the original foot (see piks), should be 60mm ish - - note this is a stock picture, you do not need to remove your hooves or legs.

Take your heat gun and bend the blanks to fit snugly around the original pads - take your time and don't forget to leave about 40mm straight material at the front so you can make the tight bend next.
Ok so your blank fits, does not have to be spot on as the final fitting comes at the end - but! it does need to be pretty good as you are going to use the blank and the leg in the next step.

Ok - take your blank and at the front edge mark down 35mm and draw a line, this will be your tight front egde bend.
Find a vice or clamp some wood to hold the blank securly in place - line up the marking and apply heat carefully to the material untill it begins to soften - take it slow and work at getting a nice tigth bend that when ya try it against the leg/pad fits nicely around it but does not quite touch the bolt holding the spring in place.

The finished blank should look like the picture (but without the rubber).

Step 5: Moving On

So - take your stilts and turn one upside down so you can get at the original hoof - now lay the blank over the pad.
You need to measure a rectangle for you first side plate, it will end up as the kinda teardrop shape in the picture.
Measure from front to back and up and down, giving you a length/width - don't forget to allow for the bolts - one goes through the leg, replacing the original, the second goes over the top of the leg with the bottom edge of the bolt juuuusssttt touching the top of the spring, it's easier to check out the photo.
Cut out your basic rectangle - hold it against the side of the leg with the blank in place - take a pen and draw round the curve - now mirror this to get your final shape, tweak and sand so it looks like the photo.
The top edge should be level with the blank so that when the rubber is added it stands up and away from the side plates - see piks
With everything in place take a 8mm drill and pass it through the leg from the back and makes a mark on the side plate, just enough so ya know perfectly where to drill your first hole - mark, punch and drill.
Still with every thing in place now put a bolt through the side plate, this should make it a lot easier to hold everthing - now lay a bolt accross the leg just where the spring ends - there should be a bracket with a cut out, if not that is ok but the bolt must touch the top of the spring so you plates don't flop backwards n forewards.
Holding a bolt in place mark the top hole - maybe check by resting the drill against the plate too to check for an accurate mark - better to be lower than higher as ya can always file out some material if need be.
Mark and drill the second hole - check for fit and using the first side plate as a template, cut out three more - cut and drill these, check fit against the blanks before moving on.

Step 6: Bigger Steps

Cool - your nearly done.
Ok - so take your side plates, old bearings or spaces and nuts n bolts.
The bolt goes through the side plate, through two bearings, through or over the leg depending on which your doing first, goes through two more bearings, through the second side plate and out the other side to be bolted together - do the same with the second bolt and then the same to the other poweriser.
For safety - if your bolts are quite a bit longer, like mine, they MUST have the extra thread on the outside of the Poweriser so when your running etc the two legs do not bind up and ya crash to the ground.

Step 7: Those Crazy Feet

Great job.
Ok now we can get down to the final fitting.
These are going to be road/sand/hard packed dirt feet.

Take your bike tire and cut it so it runs from the front, tight bend, back at least past the back of the original pad - check a couple of times and then cut a section of tire - do not remove the wire, this gives the really tight, non slip grip - use hefty cutter or a hack saw to cut the metal then scissors should work ok for just the rubber.
We are going to pass cable ties through the tire to fix it in place, three seem to work ok.
Mark about 20mm from the top and bottom of yyour new tread and make a hole for the cable tie to pass through, then find the middle point of the tread and make holes both sides too - - see piks.
Now you will see I have drilled holes in the blank, running down it's length, this was for the lumpy, locking part of the cable tie to drop into when clamped to the Bocks, as it turned out there is enough room just between the two edges of the tire when it is draw together - - bottom line ya do not need to put in the holes but I did find it easier to do the final bending and shaping with the holes there, the choise is yours.
Ok - slip on your first tread - chack for an even fit all round and put in the first cable tie, not too tight - when your happy then yup tighten - put in the other two - when this is ok with any tweaking and re doing complete move onto the other blank.
Try them on the Powerisers for fit and shape and re bend till the are spot on.
Find the back edge of the orginal pad and on the blank mark a spot on both sides - your now able to carefully cut out the notches for a bungee to lock into - I made mine about 8mm x 8mm.

Step 8: The Final Step

Great job - and now to finish.
Drop on a tread to the poweriser - put a bungee from the front hole to the bottom hole near the ankle of the unit - see piks.
Take the other bungee - pass it around the blank, up n over the first bungee (keeping it nice and tidy) and link the ends - as in the photos

JOB DONE - your new quick change feet should be locked in and solid.

Take care - let me know how ya get on - any probs just drop me a line.

Step 9: Big Head

Just a little side note - when fitting the bike tire, take time, I was amazed how tight and flat the rubber went on, giving a really professional job.

See ya

Break a leg - - well not literally.
<p>This looks awesome. Did you publish a video of it in action?</p>
Hi - cheers for the comment - sorry, not had a chance yet, if I manage to get some footage I will post it .
Just one more idea, (which I couldn't realism yet, but maybe you can?):<br>How about a spring/rubber that loads a bit more after every step and you can release it by hand, giving you a huge jump? Possibly with a hatch-worm-gear-rubber/spring-construction?
<p>Really eager to see the end of this project!</p><p>Good luck in the future, this is pretty cool ;)</p>
Cheers - thanks for the post
You're getting closer to &quot;bionic powerizers&quot;- cool mod!
Never been the same since I saw Ripley in that Power loader - she's my hero :-)
ha ha - yeah gotta get out the ole gopro - - cheers for posting
Pretty cool. I'd like to see these in action

About This Instructable

21,283views

265favorites

License:

Bio: F/B group created for folks who might like to tell about their builds/projects. just type PROTO - TYPE - CHAT into find friends. Hope to ... More »
More by darrenhall:Infrared Light Reflectors INFRARED LIGHTS Draft Detectors 
Add instructable to: