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Step 2Crosscutting sled basics
The table saw is one of the most important machines in any woodworking shop. In this regard, puzzlemaking workshops are no different... however most (if not all) puzzlemaking work is done using custom built crosscutting sleds rather than using the rip fence or miter gauge.
In its simplest form, a crosscutting sled is just a sheet of plywood which has rails underneath to keep it running straight in the miter slots of the saw. Typically sleds have a crosscutting fence attached the the back edge (the side closest to you) which is set 90 degrees to the cut line, and which is taller than the maximum cut depth (so that it doesn't get cut it half during use!) Most sleds will also have a fence on the front edge -- this adds rigidity.
On the other hand, my own crosscutting sled is anything but simple; the machined aluminum sled plates ride down ground steel rods on four linear ball bearings to ensure smooth motion with minimal linear deviation. The surfaces of the sled plates are peppered with holes which allow me to affix all sorts of special cutting jigs and fixtures. I've even got a CNC power feed unit which I attach when I'm running long batches of the same kind of cut.
I consider these two examples to be at extreme opposite ends on the spectrum of different ways that you can make a crosscutting sled. There is no limit to the number of variations that you can come up with to suit your own particular needs -- each variation with its own pros and cons. Different sled designs suit different tasks, and there is no such thing as the "best" way to make a sled, or the "best" way to make a puzzle. These are things for you to figure out on your own. I encourage you to think of this primer as a good starting point for your own journey, rather than a destination in and of itself... ;-)
In its simplest form, a crosscutting sled is just a sheet of plywood which has rails underneath to keep it running straight in the miter slots of the saw. Typically sleds have a crosscutting fence attached the the back edge (the side closest to you) which is set 90 degrees to the cut line, and which is taller than the maximum cut depth (so that it doesn't get cut it half during use!) Most sleds will also have a fence on the front edge -- this adds rigidity.
On the other hand, my own crosscutting sled is anything but simple; the machined aluminum sled plates ride down ground steel rods on four linear ball bearings to ensure smooth motion with minimal linear deviation. The surfaces of the sled plates are peppered with holes which allow me to affix all sorts of special cutting jigs and fixtures. I've even got a CNC power feed unit which I attach when I'm running long batches of the same kind of cut.
I consider these two examples to be at extreme opposite ends on the spectrum of different ways that you can make a crosscutting sled. There is no limit to the number of variations that you can come up with to suit your own particular needs -- each variation with its own pros and cons. Different sled designs suit different tasks, and there is no such thing as the "best" way to make a sled, or the "best" way to make a puzzle. These are things for you to figure out on your own. I encourage you to think of this primer as a good starting point for your own journey, rather than a destination in and of itself... ;-)
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Dec 6, 2009. 12:39 PMfswanson
says:
I would like to know more about constructing this precision sled. Measurements would be helpful.
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